lemans23

Hey all, got another problem for ya. Ever since I've gotten the 3.3 going in the rustler, I've had to revisit my clutch problems. The damn thing is almost always engaged. I've tried the stock shoes and spring in both arrangements, the MIP clutch kit in all four (two holes, leading and trailing) configs, metal shoes out the door, and I have a 3 shoe kit on the way. What can I do to help this problem? The clutch is seriously almost always engaged for some reason.

Suprachrgd82

Could be one of two things:

Engine idle speed too high-the gap on the carb should be no greater than 1/16-1/8 inch.

Too lean at idle-back out the low speed adj screw in the carb slide about 1/8 turn.

lemans23

Hmm, it's not the idle speed for sure. I'll try out the LSN adjustment, but the car doesn't pop off the line (not tuned properly for these dry conditions here, she's far too rich).

motorhead91

is your throttle trim on the transmitter wacked out

lemans23

No, believe me, I've grown out of that mistake

motorhead91

could be too rich then trying to use a lot of fuel without high rpms is tough......

its not bad fuel is it? just a thought

lemans23

Fuel is brand new, stored in a wood cabinet away from the ground. The LSN is flush right now, and I've not changed its settings as I've needed to re-tune the engine completely. The HSN is at 3.5 turns out. I will try that LSN adjustment, but I still think that it's a mechanical issue with the clutch.

REDisFASTER

Also make sure that you have a bit of drag-brake dialed in

lemans23

Yes, but that doesn't keep the car from moving like I'm giving it 1/8 throttle all the time. It's seriously moving with the rotation of the engine at idle, so thus, it is never idling.

motorhead91

loosen the clutch

Pedsaktix

Tighten your idle screw by 1 hour increments until you get it dialed in.

lemans23

It's not the idle screw, I said that already. It's a problem with the clutch itself. The idle does not change regardless of where the screw is, because the clutch is engaged, thus, it is not technically idling at all. How do I loosen the clutch?

Suprachrgd82

Actually, you want to tighten the clutch to prevent to shoes from travelling outward into the clutch bell. Look for the stiffest possible setting, or stiffer springs.

Also ensure that the clutch bell does not drag on the flywheel, and that the bearings are not seized.

It really does not sound like a clutch problem that you have, but rather an idle speed problem due to lean setting or idle speed adjustment.

lemans23

Okay, I can tell you with 150% certainty that it is not an idle screw issue. As I said, I will test the LSN today. However, even when the lsn was much MUCH richer than it is now (I had to reset the carb after I fixed my drivetrain), I still was popping clutch springs and had this problem as well.

Pedsaktix

When your clutch shoes is engaging with your clutch bell without moving your trottle that means your idle high, you basically sucking more air into the carb...

Suprachrgd82

The reason that the [conversation] keeps leading back to idle speed and mixture is that the probelem you have is uncommon, in fact, this is the first time in 20 years I have heard of it.

However, as mentioned above did you make sure your clutch bell is not binding, your bearings are not binding, and you have the correct springs.

If none of this works, I'll give you $20 for the whole damn truck.

lemans23

This problem happens with all four of my CBs, 17t, 20t, 22t and 23t. It goes away when I change clutch shoes, but comes back soonthereafter. Should I look into new CBs as well? I think that may help only because when I was using metal shoes, they scraped the inside of the CBs, but I don't know why that'd cause them to keep the clutch engaged when it shouldn't be. It isn't an idle speed problem because this isn't affected by changing the idle speed screw at all. As I said previously, I used to pop clutch springs like a *****, so now I'm wondering if I should try getting new CBs as well.

And I don't think I'll let this go for 20 bucks

REDisFASTER

Damn... That looks hot!

Again, clutch spring and bearings. If your bearings are bad, they'll bind and cause the power to be "transfered through" and move the car.

If it were me, I'd be safe and seal your carb to the engine using silicone (its not permanent), and invest in brand new fuel lines and a new tank.

lemans23

Lol I just got new fuel lines, haven't gotten a new tank though. Did pick up a brand new 23t cb today, however. Will let you know how it goes. New clutch shoes and spring as well.

rclynx

Every body knows if you have if you have RD on the front of your truck it will burn up clutches.............LOL.........nice rig man.......... Your problem with clutches going bad so quick[:@] check your engine running temps, if there cooking right at the 300 mark the springs will weaken very quickly on some engines. The Traxxas racing clutch has a real heavy duty type spring that can take the heat, only problem is the clutch assembly runs over $20 bucks Hope the new equipment you picked up resolves your problem[&o]

lemans23

Hopefully it does. And nope, I don't let my engines get above 280 degrees. At that point, I pull it in and richen it up, or let it cool down and restart it. I like to see numbers from 230-280 before I even start it out of the garage to go driving.

lemans23

Well, I pulled out the engine today to install my new flywheel, and I discovered that the carburetor is broken right near the slide. Whether or not this is affecting anything, I don't know, but I'm replacing it just the same to make sure there isn't a small airleak.

Oliver_Klozov

I have the MIP 4 n 1 clutch and ive jsut found that if i leave my slipper very very very loose where the car hardly moves after a couple of minutes it tightens right up and works great. I don't have a problem with my car taking off b/c the brakes are tight.. With the mip 4n1 you dont need a slipper at all....

lemans23

Hmm dunno bout that, since my 3 shoe kit will be here tomorrow. I just tried it out with 68/23t gearing and the ****er was still trying to pop the front end up, but the top end was INSANE. The clutch worked out alright as well, will have to see until I can get it out to a place to tune it in (driveway is obviously not large enough ). My friend is bringing the new carb to my house after work, so we'll see about that as well.

Suprachrgd82

Quite possibly the source of an elevated idle speed that was so dilligently defended in earlier posts....