The_Shark

well i traded my OFNA cd3 for a HPI rs4 MT.

it took 12 days to get and when it got here i was a little ticked. first the engine is a cv-r not a 18ss as stated and then the rear diff needed a C clamp, then the throttle linkage was a jazzed up. but after ironing out everything this thing rocks!!

it has boetie tires and bigger front shocks, so it grabs onto everything and goes over thick grass. the cv-r flat out screams and is a low torq power house, it takes off like a rocket on wheels. the handling is wonderfull even on hard packed dirt. the jumping took a little getting used to but now i got it down, its two blipps in the air after 5feet of takeoff.

this is now my favorite stadium truck i ever owned, it was a close call with the evader but this one is more fun due to its traction.

however, i dont like the fact that it is void of a slipper clutch and the chassis is paper thin a 2mm as claimed. it looks more like 1.8 to me.


one prob i have is there is a stupid screw comming loose on the rear A arm that one time popped off doing 1/2 speed. also does anyone know how much a rear shock and spring assembly is for the rear if i go with mt2 parts??

RCCanuck

the engine you have is better than the 18ss...you have an OS CVR...

rclynx

besides your in the same town that supplies OS engines to the USA[&o]

46u

My Feedback: (3)

IF it is the round head 18 CV-R and not the square head CV yes much better engine then the HPI 18SS

The_Shark

i put on a fail safe two days ago to protect me from runnaways. and i noticed the servo needed to be jammed in real good for it to work. so today, after a jump at my house it came slightly detached and did a wot runnaway!! i was trying to flip the car over and i did, but then it flipped back and i aimed for a bush. it died out after a minute. i dont see any damage other than alot of tread missing from the tire. i got to see if the tranny is shot.

its funny, the fail safe failed on me[:@][&o].
by the way, that byrons is great stuff! its my favorite now.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

46u

My Feedback: (3)

This is why sanction racing requires you to have a return spring or some use rubber bands on the carburetor. [X(]My MT 1 ¾ when I got it many years ago new started life as a MT1 racer kit. I have a little run time on it over the years.

rc_racer69

basically all parts that fit on the mt2 fit the mt
maybe some minor chassis mods(drill a few holes)
i have been converting my mt into mt2 standards for about a month and it looks like the mt2 a lot now
just need a few more things(slipper clutch)
i have stripped many of those[]
hope this helps

46u

My Feedback: (3)

In all my years I have only stripped one spur gear even on my Savage with well over 8 gallons on the second plastic spur. The first one just wore out. If you run the RTR CB and bearing set up you will wear out spurs quick as they are crap and not very hard. This why I run the Savage Race CB and the ball bearings instead of the sorry RTR bearing.

This is an article from HPI web site right after the MT 2 came out. I do not recommend the T 15 engine and even thaw they told me the 100cc tank would not fit my MT 1 I have one in it. I all so used all SS specifications, as the SS drive train is WAY better then the RTR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

While the Nitro MT 2 on the surface looks the same as the older Nitro MT, there are in fact a wide variety of changes and the difference between the two trucks is very significant from a "conversion" point of view, however a conversion can be done if you don't want to buy the Nitro MT 2 truck.

Upgrading your old Nitro MT to the brand new Nitro MT 2 can be done easily by purchasing just a few items. You can upgrade various parts of the truck one by one according to your budget, or you can upgrade everything at once!

Suspension
One of the biggest advantages the Nitro MT 2 has over the original Nitro MT is in the suspension. Longer front arms plus longer front and rear shocks provide a plush, smooth ride that allow the Nitro MT 2 to roll over just about anything. Upgrading the front end is easy � you just need a few parts:

Front Suspension
85074 Suspension Arm Set (2 required)
85076 Front Upright Set
A280 Flange Shaft Set (use A284 3x30mm flange shafts)
Z242 E-Clips 2mm

Each #85074 Suspension Arm Set includes one front and one rear suspension arm, so you can upgrade your rear suspension arms at the same time. While the measurements of the rear arms are the same, they are much tougher and more durable.

To really upgrade the front suspension, you will need the longer front shocks of the Nitro MT 2. You can just move your Nitro MT�s rear shocks to the front, since the front Nitro MT 2 shocks are the same length as the rear Nitro MT shocks. This of course would require you to get a new pair of rear shocks:

Rear Shocks
86168 Flange Shaft 3x33mm
Z224 Washer M3x8x0.5
A716 Sport Shock Set (77-117mm)

The new Nitro MT 2 shocks have an improved design, with a bottom cap that threads on and will not �pop off� when landing huge jumps. You can also get the front Nitro MT 2 shocks with the threaded bottom cap:

Front Shocks
A715 Sport Shock Set (70-103mm)


Front Bumper
While you�re upgrading the front end and it�s all taken apart, you can go ahead and upgrade the front bumper to the new brush guard style bumper. This is one of the most prominent outward features of the Nitro MT 2 and does help protect the front end in crashes and tumbles. Here are the parts necessary to update the front bumper:

Front Bumper
85071 Shock Tower Set
85072 Lower Mount Set
85073 Front Bumper Set
Z571 TP. Binder Head Screw M3x20mm
Z567 TP. Binder Head Screw M3x10mm


Slipper Clutch
The Nitro MT 2 slipper clutch is a new design using Savage monster truck parts and is made to slip less than the older optional slipper clutch. The Nitro MT 2 slipper clutch includes a new spur gear, however you must use the drive cups from your Nitro MT.

New Slipper Clutch
87138 Slipper Clutch Set


Engine
An easy upgrade from the Nitro Star 15FE engine is the Nitro Star T-15 Engine with pullstart. This engine is much stronger than the 15FE and although many Nitro MT owners have put in .15, .18 or even .21 engines in their trucks, we will list the information for the T-15 here:

T-15 Engine
15101 Nitro Star T-15 Engine with Pullstart


Drivetrain
The Nitro MT 2 features thicker dogbones, which in turn requires larger drive cups, diff shafts and axles. All of these components have been strengthened on the new truck to make sure they can handle the power of the new Nitro Star T-15 engine. While it is possible to upgrade the drivetrain of your Nitro MT to the specs of the Nitro MT 2, if you plan to upgrade all the suspension and drivetrain components, it would be cheaper (and much easier) to purchase a complete Nitro MT 2 truck, which would give you all-new parts plus all the updates in one preassembled truck.

However, for the Nitro MT owner who wants to upgrade a little at a time, we will list the parts necessary to update the drivetrain of the Nitro MT 2:

Drive Train
86225 Cup Joint 7x19mm (D Cut)
86226 Gear Shaft 5x38x7mm (2 required)
86227 Diff Shaft 5x26x7mm (2 required)
86228 Axle 5x36x7mm
86229 Axle 5x41x7mm
86230 Dogbone 7x86mm (2 required)
86232 Dogbone 7x83mm
86233 Dogbone 7x57mm
86234 Cup Joint 7x19mm

The_Shark

well, she's still running good. only i rounded off a tooth on a brand new spur. nice[sm=tired.gif].the previous owner upgraded the diffs, and got a set of rears on the fronts, so now i need the longer ones in the rear. i like how the truck drives now, i wont change anything unless it breaks. i cant wait to take this to the track! i have never been on a track before but im ready.

the lack of slipper makes me nervous but when i jumped the ramp and it stayed pegged and landed at full speed, all it did is chip a tooth. i remember that my evader had a return spring, now i know why its so important.

oh by the way, what do you figure how fast the mt is with the cv-r?? my gues at least 43mph.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

There is a guy on the forums that said he got his MT with a T 15 to do over or around 50 MPH and all I can say is if this is true I have some ocean side property in Arizona for sale. I would say the MT 1 with an OS CV-RX well tuned and nothing special stock gearing around 35 MPH which to scale is 350 MPH!

ehroof

i got 36mph out of my mt with an os .18 cvrx in it, using a bushnell radar gun. It would go much faster with a second gear, mine winds out the single speed way too fast.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

A lot has to do with the gearing and stock RTR have very low gearing. I do believe with the right gearing and tuning getting 40 or maybe a little more out of a CV-RX and a single speed. But 49 or so on a stock T15 and single speed I am sorry NO WAY

The_Shark

this truck seems to be geared way too low, it takes off like a rocket and winds out way too fast, i wonder if you can change the spur gear without having to get the new system.???

but it is fast enough for what i do, who gives a hoot about a truck that can do 60mph? the only time you do that is on a long flat street, and that defeats the purpose of the truck. i want to go to a track but im practicing jump angles, different turns and speed control. i might go to a track in a week or two, not to race but to run on a track, i know its going to be $ because you will alway break something while racing, its the racer's code "if you didnt break something, your not racing"

now what is the difference between a cv-rX and the regular Cv-r?

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I do not race my MT any more but I race my buggy often and break very few parts. When I raced my MT I broke very little. A lot has to do with Maintenance! If all I could do is bash I would give up the hobby. Racing is just some much better.

The_Shark

on pratice days how do you know when its your turn?? are the rules hard to follow? what if you flip over? these are a few fears i have of the track.

rc_racer69

cv-r doesnt have a pull start but the cv-rx does
also on a tracxk people flip your car over for you and all that good stuff
and if you go for a practice day you just set your car on the track and let it rip
hope this helps

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I can only speak on the 4 or 5 tracks I have run so far. One thing if you do not have a DSM 2.4 GHz radio is to make SURE you list you frequency and check to make sure no one else is running it! Good idea to take a couple different sets of crystals. There should be a frequency board. As far as practice if there is room on the driver stand put your truck on the track and go. Now as far as people to turn the cars over while practicing (turn marshals) may or may not be any during practice. But if there is making sure you take your turn returning the favor.

In a race you turn marshal after each of your heats and if you do not or get someone to fill in for you they can penalize you a lap. If it where not for racing I would have given this hobby up long ago! You really find out what you are made of when you get on the track and do not get discouraged as it takes time to just get where you can get around the track with out wrecking.

The_Shark

good, a challenge! i never give up anything i want to do, i even learned to boomerang!

any way, my biggest challenge is going to be jumping, im ok with single jumps but timeing multiple jumps i dont have any pratice with. and another challenge is view angle, im not used to standing over my car. but im still going to give it a shot as soon as the whether clears up, damn, schools starting... at least i will work on cars everyday.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Practice, practice and when you get done practice some more. This is what it takes to race or drive on a track. Bashing is easy racing is not but racing is much more fun!

The_Shark

yep, if all i could ever do is bash, i would go and buy a hellie. i cant wait to race!

doesgo

I disagree. I've been doing off-road RC for five years and in general, bashing is much tougher on a vehicle than racing. Racing taxes clutches, bearings, and such, but unless you're going WOT and crashing a lot, parts don't break very often. Take it slow, literally. Learn your way around the track. Believe me, slow and steady without crashing is a much more successful way to win than going all out and crashing. Even if you don't break anything in the crash, it takes time for the marshal to get to you and flip you back over.

I can't even count the number of times someone blew past me on the track, only to crash at the corner, then I motored on by as he was being marshaled. Just being able to finish without breaking of flaming out is half the battle.