d16z6

Same as topic.

I noted that the RS43 platform was derived from the MT's (or was it the other way around?). I believe the proper hop up part 2 speed tranny set is no longer made/available and I wish to put in a 2 speed setup (and why is the MT2 or G3.0 still single speed?).

So has anybody done it? Should I buy the Nitro RS4 3 2 speed kit (ebay?) or piece wise it from the later RS4 3 manuals (or buy an RS4 3 roller that has the tranny)?

What's the best way going about this?

Uncle Vinnie

Straight swap I just did it to mine.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_59..._2/key_/tm.htm

46u

My Feedback: (3)

If you all so check on the HPI MT forum some have done it but is geared high even after some changes. When they ran off road do to not having a slipper they would eat the gears up particularly if jumping. Some years back they made a 2 speed for the HPI MT that had better gearing for the MT but do to in not hold up for off road use they discontinued it. They all so had a note saying not for off road use.

d16z6

Yes the proper (now discontinued) part for the MT did specifically state not for off road use however that didn't deter people from doing so. Sadly I did not have enough money back then to justify acquiring this optimized gear set while it was still around.

From your personal experiences is the RS4 3's 2 speed setup geared too tall for off road use as referenced above? What about if I planned to buy and run the shorter gears (gold ones, 17/21) to help alleviate this potential problem? Is it too tall even if I currently have a .18 CV-R? Even after the re-gearing will it still be too tall and my next available option is to add more power, say OS .18 TZ?? Even after that what if I ran the proline lower profile road tires?

Right now I currently have the 15T clutch bell and still on the Original spur gear (no slipper)! The setup right now digs pretty hard with the .18 CV-R but I wish I had another gear when it starts to loose steam up top.

Let me know what you guys think. I wanna also hear from others who know more on this topic. Where can I find more review material?

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Well if you are running with out a slipper you most have a MT 1 not a MT2 as all MT2 came with a slipper. If you are running stock MT1 gearing yes it is geared way to low for the OS engine. If you run a MT2 slipper that will fit in the MT1 as I have one in mine you can change the Spur size as well as the CB. The Spurs are the same thing in the MT 2 as the Savage spurs. They all so make CB up to I think 19 teeth if not more. So I am guessing you have 15 CB with 52 spur? With my MT with the OS 18 TZ I am running 16 CB with 47 spur which is a WHOLE lot higher gear then you are running. Now with the OX CV I would not gear it that high but something like 16 CB with 49 spur might work but you will have to try it and see. All so if you are running the POOR RTR CB you need to up grade it to the Savage Race CB and bearings.

d16z6

My mistake I doubled checked and verified that I am running the stock 12T bell and 52T spur. This setup does offer some serious punch as sometimes upon hard take offs it always pulls hard to the right (bump steering?) and it does make for some close calls with other stationary objects when I'm caught off guard by this. I think I have a 15t around here and I will try to put that in first and see how it fares.

I don't run that crap needle bearing on the shaft from a previous lesson where last time it went out of round and I was wondering why my motor could never idle reliably. I found out sometimes the bell would make contact with the retained clutch shoes and stall the engine (verified by watching the car lurch forward). Now I run 5x8mm flanged bearings. Oh that and it also made contact with my lightweight flywheel which made some circular grooves in them! >_<

The_Shark

im not sure if mine is stock, i know i have the stock spur but i dont know if the bell is the same because it is lightened with holes in the front.

mine does that too, i think its torq steer, bump steer is when you hit a bump and the car pulls to the sorce of shock, this can be tamed with tie rods, which i dont know if they make for this model.

and 46u, do they make smaller spurs? and how much is it to make mine a slipper clutch?? im very good at dropping the accelerator before it lands, but i dont like replacing that spur and wouldnt like to fix it on a regular basis.[]

d16z6

Well I'd just count the # of teeth you got on the bell if you really wanted to know. That's what I had to do since I didn't see any stamping on the bell.

Well I do think there is some torque steer since the engine shaft layout would lend itself to squat the right (or left) side, however torque steer is commonly rooted to be the cause of unequal torque between axles on fwd layouts and we are dealing with 4wd platforms here. But from what I've read is that torque steer (if any) is often negligible from the belt vs shaft debates. Plus when you watch upon hard acceleration, the dynamics of the side leaning and squatting of the chassis will lead me to believe that therefore it is the changes in the geometry of the suspension alignment... a.k.a. bump steering occurring during hard acceleration. I have the optional purple tie rods yet to be installed.

I wouldn't worry about the spur gear if you have gotten away with being careful so far.

The_Shark

well, that can be considered chassis flex, twisting the chassis to composate for the massive torq. a carbon upper deck or a thicker main deck will help this if it is. ever see drag cars? the engine twists the chassis at take off, without sufficent ridgidity modifications it would twist the chassis untill it bends and stays there.

d16z6

Yes I forgot about that. While I wouldn't doubt the possibility of chassis flexing going on I would think the suspension would give way first and absorb most if not all of this force with suspension compression before serious flexing occurs?

46u

My Feedback: (3)

12CB and 52 spur are WAY low geared and is no wonder you do not have much top end!!!!!! If I had this gearing in my MT with the OS 18 TZ I could not keep the front wheels on the ground even if I tried. Been there done that and is why I have mine geared so high 16CB 47 Spur.

If you read my above post it states they make different spurs for the MT2 slipper clutch set up and are the same gears as a Savage. They make a 52, 49 and 47 OEM spurs. If you have the CB with round holes it is the cheap 2 piece RTR CB.

This is the type of CB’s I use and they come in quite a few sizes. I think they make them from 13 to 20 teeth.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...7&I=LXLST6&P=K

I do not have a problem giving WOT to mine even with the TZ in it and it tracks straight.

The_Shark

i counted the teeth 5 times, i have a 15 tooth bell, i still think it needs to be tallened up, it doesnt wheely no matter what, but it seems too punchy still. can i still get a 47? or do i have to update the spur to a mt2?

d16z6

Yeah my .18 CV-R cannot pull wheelies with the 12/52 setup. Why is that? I'm running the stock Proline Geolander tires (I think), purple springs (extra firm) in the rear with 2 5/8" pre-load spacers, blue springs (firm) up front with 1 5/8" pre-load spacer (to raise the chassis height, aka 'ground clearance' and to keep the rear end level with the front since I've noticed it's rearward heavy) and 35 wt shock oil all around.

I noted that on pavement take off I can see that maybe there is some weight transfer to get one of the front tires (or maybe both) unloaded enough to spin up before the vehicle is gone. But I've never performed a standing wheelie yet?

So I can interchange driveline parts with the savage brethren? I was under the assumption that big block setups are too big to fit in general. I guess upgrades are in order then.

Oh yeah... did you install an SG shaft TZ in your RS4 MT?

46u

My Feedback: (3)

There are a very FEW Savage parts that fit a MT. Spur gear, CB if you up date the bearings and s few parts of the slipper clutch but that is about it. I have both a Savage and the MT among others.

As far as not wheeling is it tuned properly, is the slipper tight enough and is the clutch working properly? I recommend if you have not done it to put the race clutch in. The only other engine I had in my MT besides the OS TZ is a OS 15 CV-RX but never tried to make it wheel with it. My OS 15 was no where near as powerful as my TZ!

My TZ has the threaded shaft.

d16z6

Remember I have no slipper clutch. I have the first gen MT in it's current configuration still.

As soon as I can parts to get the MT running again I will attempt a wheelie from a dig. I wonder if there's even a chance...