They have made quite a few needed changes on the G3.0, it's a great thing to see, congrats HPI.

I agree and now all they need to do is start a sanction class for 4 wheel drive stadium trucks. I do not know about other areas but the 2 wheel drive stadium truck class in Georgia is dying out quick and if they where to introduce a 4 wheel drive stadium truck class I think it would go over well. We are building a track locally so I will no longer have to drive at least 50 miles to race as well as a RC club. One of the things we are talking about is having a 4 wheel drive stadium truck class. I will steal be racing all over the southeast but will be nice to have a few race I can drive to in 20 minutes each year.

Just drove with the 13 tooth racing clutch bell, was a great improvement for off the line but still needs some mid range improvement, pipe should be here on monday. Updates to follow.

Nice to hear the bell helped some. Let us know how you like the pipe as well. GL

Well heres the new pipe, must say that dosen't make the improvements I was hoping for. Looks like will be a new motor now, whats a hot direct fit? I'm liking the os motors but there are a 100 different options, would like a direct replacement, remember that I have seperate motor mounts on this model. Thanks

It's a THS racing pipe, 1010R EVO, hope I got the right one?

Yeah, you have the correct one, now you need this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXGGP7&P=K
This is a direct drop-in with the setup you currently have. You will be happy with this engine in the MT, they are made for each other. Keep us updated.

i have a picco, tune pipe(xtm) and a 2 speed on it and i love it.all around bad ass motor.i run it way under tune (around 180-200) and it will still blows all 4 tires off around 50-60 mph,the only problem i have with it is i change both spur gears every other tank of gas.i kill the new 3.3 4-tec's easy lol and im not joking at all.im going to the hobby shop tomarrow or tuesday to see if i can get a set of metal spur gears..

There is a heavy-duty 2 speed offered by someone, somewhere in the 640+ pages of the MT2 thread. It's not cheap but is super well made and titanium if memory serves. Perhaps someone will chime in on the name so you can look at one for yourself, as I cannot remember and don't have it bookmarked. Sorry I cannot be more helpful.

thanks for the help,but im going to get them through my hobby shop.im getting sick of changing them,sometimes the gears dont make it through a full tank lol.but i have to say its a beast..

I am wondering if at some point I should leave well enough alone and just realize the "practical limit" of the MT2 3.0, replacing diff gears even every 10 tanks is not worth the effort to me. I have three ofna buggies and was trying to get this to run as well, seems that maybe HPI kows what there doing after all, weak motor keeps driveline alive. Maybe time to send this feller down the road.

You should not have diff stripping problems with the OS CV-R, it is a good match for the car. I have had mine in my MT2 for some time now and have had no problems with the heavy-duty diff gears or drive-train whatsoever. I agree that anything more than this will likely result in drive-train troubles, but I see no such issue in getting the CV-R. Don't give up yet, you are almost there. GL

Do you guys have the older mt 2 or the new g3.0, and does the g3.0 have the heavy duty gears out of the box?

I have the new 3.0 model, I know it has better gears factory, not sure as to what better really is though. I know on the older models it was a real problem with the diff gears.

i have both,the mt 1 and mt 2.I have not had any diff problems at all yet and i have a 2 speed,picco motor and tuned pipe in the mt 1.i do go through spur gears lol.

I was looking at the mt2 g3.0 in the new car action mag, and it says that it has a plastic ring gear, and sealed diff cases. Is the ring gear plastic or was that false, and is the diff sealed so that I can use silicone diff fluid, or can I only use grease?

Thanks

The diff ring gears are not plastic they are metal and much better then the older RTR. The spur gears are plastic and all ways have been. I have an OS 18 TZ in my MT 1-¾ and after some changes do not have a problem with it holding up.

I have had my new G3.0 for about 2 weeks. My exhaust manifold vibrated off during the first tank break in. I did similar to what catbutt did. I just removed the HPI phillips bolts and replaced them with some Traxxas hexes I had extra. I used a little threadlock and torqued em down with the new "provided" gasket. Seems like HPI was expecting this. Dont forget to clean the new hexes and threaded manifold with nitro cleaner or denatured alcohol before expecting the threadlock to work sufficiently.

Suprpluzz, I had to take it one step further and get longer bolts and nut them. I would also reccomend getting upgraded diff cups. Mine did not surive break in. Also if your looking for more performance, go with the better motor right away, might not need all the other stuff in the end.

All Ready to Runs are Ready to be checked over. You need to chick it out before ever starting it and loctite all screws that go in to metal. Yes until I put in my OS 18 TZ I used longer bolts with nuts and never had one come out after that on my MT.

46u, I totally agree with RTR is ready to be gone over. It's a big over sight (mine included) to expect everything to be perfect when it comes out of the box.

guywhohatesdishes, your high speed needle seems to be quite the way up have you gone all the way in and 3 full turns back the 1/8 of a turn clockwise untill improvment? because that might be your problem

I run the car at 260 degrees, thats as lean as I am comfortable with. The stock 18 motor is just weak on the bottom.