I'm looking for the extended chassis for the jato 3.3 and was wondering if anyone knew where to get it? I had a link to the ebay auction that was on and thats over and there are no new listings.

You could try this thats what i am getting http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi...=&part_id=3334

Thx man LoL i was on that site lastnight looking at the other chassis they had and i also looked at the vantage site

Whats it used for?

Big block motors

Wow. Who needs a BB...

All I already hear about the Jato (3.3) is that the only thing it is useful for is wheelies and long strait sections of road... and now there are big block upgrades [X(]?

Well when you have 1300 invested in a jato and it doesnt spank an rc0gt with an os .18cvr in it you start thinking you need a bigger motor.. its for my buddy.

Maybe you should install the plastic parts back on it, it iwll take some weight off. Plus, driving and tuning skills help alot here.

who needs a BB jato? ME!



Its bloody awesome, im runnin Proline Gladiators on the rear and Proline edges on the front, offroad its pretty good, if u know how to control the throttle u can control it easily, but when u want to, u can tear the dirt and grass to pieces LOL, mind u, the stock driveline dosnt fair to well, my whole trans has bronze gears in it, which are holding up great.

Also the new Era chassis is WEAK, They must use a really soft alloy plating as i cant stop bending my dam chassis, which in turn, leaves me with a stripped spur[]

if your chewing your slipper you need to loosen it a bit we had the same problem with chassis flex and the spur gear mashing the cb. We have found a looser sliper fixes that problem. Currently the jato has an OS .18 TZ EB Modded in it and the chassis has crazy flex. Stock chassis though so we were thinking the new era one would be good. And the tz engine screams like a raped ape so its not a tuning issue it the fact the jato weights 20% more than my rc10gt so it needs a bigger motor. Engine for engine car for car it wouldnt be a race if i had the same engine on my rc10gt. It would kill the jato all day at everything if my rc10gt had the tz eb modded. And anyone who says its a tuning issue feel free to look at my video on youtube look for jato flips and thats the jato im talking about. No tuning issues what so ever the engine holds a tune perfect. Minor ajustments but not like the 3.3 or the cv-r this engine holds a tuning way better. My car has no lack of power concidering it can wheelie at half speed with a single speed tranny until i loosened the slipper b/c we chewed up spur gears mashing with the cb when we hit bumps at high speed.

scottywilkes-"Also the new Era chassis is WEAK, They must use a really soft alloy plating as i cant stop bending my dam chassis, which in turn, leaves me with a stripped spur"

You are probably bending your chassis because of the stock upper chassis and the stock roll bar.With all that power you have i am surprised that you don't have the new era upper plate and the lower one and the roll bar.It would really make a difference on the strength of the chassis overall. Check out the link's mabey it can help you.You don't want to have a power house jato like you do and not have a strong foundation!Beef it up you will be happy ..roll bar
. http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi...=&part_id=3298
upper plate. http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi...=&part_id=3050
lower... http://www.neweramodels.com/item.cgi...=&part_id=2734

it dosnt bend there, it bends in the area between the centre place and trans, aka where the motor is situated, there just isnt enough support there, i can bend the chassis with my hands with everything installed, its very weak, currectly im searching for soemwhere to get some 6061T6 alloy or preferably 7075T6 alloy to make a new 4mm chassis. I mean the chassis should not bend just by hitting a empty recycling bin, weights about 1kg and was movable lol. It bends the chassis when it lands from wheelies etc as well, kinda dissapointing, i love the thing, but the chassis is really getting to me lol, i have a 30 and 40 tooth custom clutch bell for it as well, it takes alot of bottom away, but the top end is just crazy fast lol

So you have the one in the link above right?Is it the back part that bends,the back "tounge" between the black and silver screws in the pic in the link above?It say's it's 6061t6 glad to know that it has a weak spot.Did you find any other chassis?

nah there is no other extended chassis, thats why i want to make a new one. as the new era chassis is only 3mm, so the extra 1mm of thickness should stiffen it a bit more, il also be runnin another plate in the rear extending to just past the rear of the centre plate, it will be radiused up so it dosnt catch on anything.

Its bending between the motor and back of the centre plate

www.Onlinemetals.com

i would recommend all metal tranny gears for anyone installing a big block.itll shred stock gears in no time.you can find these at hot-racing.com.

i just bought a team magic g4.waitll u see it when im done.

Hey guys Im having a slight problem with my jato 3.3. First thing I want to ask what are the best tires for grip for this car the anacondas or the off road tired, I have 3 pairs of tires for it. Im playing in about 0 degree weather and everytime I gun it or accelerate it keeps wanting to burn out and doing donuts. I love the donuts and all but really would like to see wheelies coming from the car. Is it that the weather is so gold that the tires are not getting any grip or is it my tires? And what tires shouls I use? Is this normal and how can I gain alot more grip????

Thanks!!

Hey,I got a few solutions for you. First Hot Racing makes a ext chassis thats much stronger,if you want to make your own I suggest you use carbon fiber(I used 5mm that I got off ebay,its much stiffer and lighter). I would also use the alum clutch guard. The best way to stiffen the chassis is to use a VG rollcage,alum rear shock tower and the Golden Horizens alum front bumper. The rollcage attaches to the front bumper where the sway bars screws go,and to the r shock tower(it ties everything together w/ metal) I also use the upper chassis brace.Since making these upgrades I've hit trees (yards full of them)at at least 50mph and haven't broken anything,but the steering saver,which I just got an alum one to fix that. As for best tires,I used a 14mm adapter from Axial w/ their X-75 wide offset wheels and maxx size Road Hawg tires.(you may have to trim the body and left side mud guard to allow for lock to lock steering). As for the big block kit,I just ordered only the engine mount to use the .26 Picco Maxx(same size as the 3.3 but has b block style mounting holes)does anyone know if this will fit,or will I have to use a fullsize BB w/ the longer snout? Also does any one know if they make a aftermarket radiotray/upper deck,not just the brace? I hope this helps,I've found all these pieces the hard way,by breaking the weakest link and replacing it. Thanks David Hill NC

sorry mate but the picco 26 is a mid block, its big block internals, in a small block crank case.

I cant run the alloy centre brace as its to short, and it rubs on my larger clutch bells, i would have to grind 3/4 of it away to have it clear my bells.

Id use carbon fibre, yes its strong, but its also brittle, 1 well placed hit and it will shatter, i went through all that with a chassis for my other car.

scott is right the charbon fiber chassis is ok for bling or a little bit of straight line racing but its useless if you land hard or flip...Carbon fiber is ment to crush not bend.