gear mesh
#1
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From: st.catharines, ON, CANADA
hey everybody hows it goin, these forums have helped me alot in the past little while that i've been on here but i have one question im hoping can be answered.... i have a Nitro Duratrax Evader and i have gone through like 15 spur gears in the past month, the spurs just started to strip after i put my os .18 cv-rx in and i've adjusted the gear mesh sooo many times but it seems perfect and i go outside to run it and it just strips again, i went through 3 today and im almost positive my motor is mounted tight because i use a drill to tighten(i use the screw setting so no stripping of the screws)
#2
i would think if the mesh is correct and everything is tight then it is chassis flex you need strengthen it with some upgrades..
[8D]

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the best time to go to the hobby shop to look for upgrades.

[8D]

[8D]

[8D]

[8D]

[8D]
the best time to go to the hobby shop to look for upgrades.
#3
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From: st.catharines, ON, CANADA
yeah but i don't get it, im running with everthing it came with and before i put the os engine in it was perfect.... i think i gotta get a new chassis... i dont know how the same size motor would twist the chassis?
#4
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From: st.catharines, ON, CANADA
yeah but i don't get it, im running with everthing it came with and before i put the os engine in it was perfect.... i think i gotta get a new chassis... i dont know how the same size motor would twist the chassis? (refferring to stock motor to os engines)
#5
i could be wrong but if you have added more power and the gear mesh is fine i cant think of anything else. does this happen when you are just running up and down the street with no jumping? if so then it is something else, or is it just when you are off road?
#6
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From: st.catharines, ON, CANADA
i run in the grass, thats pretty much the only area i can run for right now, but if i go across my street there's a back lot where i can run but havent run there cuz i've been tweaking it soo much.... i might try some on-road but yeahnothin yet for onroad
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From: Frozen_Earth
ORIGINAL: sk8freak123
hey everybody hows it goin, these forums have helped me alot in the past little while that i've been on here but i have one question im hoping can be answered.... i have a Nitro Duratrax Evader and i have gone through like 15 spur gears in the past month, the spurs just started to strip after i put my os .18 cv-rx in and i've adjusted the gear mesh sooo many times but it seems perfect and i go outside to run it and it just strips again, i went through 3 today and im almost positive my motor is mounted tight because i use a drill to tighten(i use the screw setting so no stripping of the screws)
hey everybody hows it goin, these forums have helped me alot in the past little while that i've been on here but i have one question im hoping can be answered.... i have a Nitro Duratrax Evader and i have gone through like 15 spur gears in the past month, the spurs just started to strip after i put my os .18 cv-rx in and i've adjusted the gear mesh sooo many times but it seems perfect and i go outside to run it and it just strips again, i went through 3 today and im almost positive my motor is mounted tight because i use a drill to tighten(i use the screw setting so no stripping of the screws)
#8
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From: st.catharines, ON, CANADA
HEARD!!!! i'll never bring the drill in the same room as my truck haha but i just figured it was a more easy way to tighten the motor mounts but done never again but im just wondering what else it could be im going to be ordering a new frame this week
#9
Your transmission/differential, have you tightened it up (ball diff)? That and the slipper can cause problems.................differential mounting loose............many other things to look at [&o]
#10
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From: st.catharines, ON, CANADA
yeah i went out and got a new trans case and i was running a traxxas 66 tooth 32 pitch and loosend the slipper up and it ran longer but i think the motor was loose this time so when i get the right one im going to loosen up the slipper a bit more but tommorrow im gunna run the truck
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From: Budd Lake, NJ
1) make sure your slipper is not too tight. This slipper will take the stress of your entire drive train. Also it will help you keep traction be keeping the wheels from spinning out.
2) make sure there is no, or very very little if any wobble in your spur gear.
3) next make sure when you tighten down your engine mounts make sure it is straight and not at an angle. tighten by hand opposite screws till its tight. this will help keep the engine mounts from walking when you tighten the screws and get even torque on the mounts.
4) Look at how close the spur gear is too the bell housing. If it is almost touching or is, this is a common problem and is easily fixed. it causes extra heat due to friction and in most cases if this is happening, the spur gear is not completely meshing with the bell gear. 1/4 of the teeth are off set off the gear which means the teeth will strip more easy because its not meshing against the whole tooth.
Take off the slipper, brake ext. Look at the rolled pin that is in the shaft. If the seam in the rolled pin is not facing toward the transmission then turn it so it is.
If it is and your spur is too close to the bell, then there is something else wrong.
5) make sure that the clutch is not semi engaging when the throttle arm is at neutral and engine idling correctly. The truck should be able to sit still without rolling without the brake engaged at all and idling. if it wants to roll, and you are using positive brake at neutral, then you are heating up your pinon bell gear and its melting the spur gear. If you have the stock clutch then you may have to trim them down. If you have the MIP 4 in 1 you should take the weights out of the clutch.
6) if you are still having problems you can get the RRP metal spur gear. But if there is a bad problem with eating your bell pinon gear.
Those are all of the problems I can think of can be wrong.
2) make sure there is no, or very very little if any wobble in your spur gear.
3) next make sure when you tighten down your engine mounts make sure it is straight and not at an angle. tighten by hand opposite screws till its tight. this will help keep the engine mounts from walking when you tighten the screws and get even torque on the mounts.
4) Look at how close the spur gear is too the bell housing. If it is almost touching or is, this is a common problem and is easily fixed. it causes extra heat due to friction and in most cases if this is happening, the spur gear is not completely meshing with the bell gear. 1/4 of the teeth are off set off the gear which means the teeth will strip more easy because its not meshing against the whole tooth.
Take off the slipper, brake ext. Look at the rolled pin that is in the shaft. If the seam in the rolled pin is not facing toward the transmission then turn it so it is.
If it is and your spur is too close to the bell, then there is something else wrong.
5) make sure that the clutch is not semi engaging when the throttle arm is at neutral and engine idling correctly. The truck should be able to sit still without rolling without the brake engaged at all and idling. if it wants to roll, and you are using positive brake at neutral, then you are heating up your pinon bell gear and its melting the spur gear. If you have the stock clutch then you may have to trim them down. If you have the MIP 4 in 1 you should take the weights out of the clutch.
6) if you are still having problems you can get the RRP metal spur gear. But if there is a bad problem with eating your bell pinon gear.
Those are all of the problems I can think of can be wrong.



