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Official RC10GT Thread

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Old 04-22-2008, 12:15 AM
  #2501  
Toki
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

i will find out tomorrow if they can get one.
Old 04-22-2008, 12:19 AM
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Toki
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

mxr i am still having problems starting the car i wired my box for a car battery do you think this will help also do you think running duel 7.2 bat packs is better then a 12 volt gell? i am running the 12 volt gell now
Old 04-22-2008, 01:19 AM
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mxr
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

i would say that is does not really matter , i use a gel motorbike 14 amps battery just because my sticks were dead and i got the motorbike battery for free ,try warming your engine and before put a few drops of after run oil it need to be a little warm for the first start ,i had to unscrew the sparck plug for the running in in order to be able to start the engine ,otherwise nothing could turn it over .it took me half a gallon to get it running and starting easy ,after that starting it is a piece of cake .
Be patient and take your time .
Old 04-25-2008, 03:24 PM
  #2504  
Toki
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

Where did everyone go?
Old 04-25-2008, 05:13 PM
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BigTruckDriver
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

Here, just busy putting money in my heli.
Old 04-25-2008, 05:19 PM
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BigTruckDriver
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread


ORIGINAL: Toki

mxr i am still having problems starting the car i wired my box for a car battery do you think this will help also do you think running duel 7.2 bat packs is better then a 12 volt gell? i am running the 12 volt gell now
Running it off the car battery will definitely help. The engine is new so yes they can be hard to start. Did you ever find your clutch?
Old 04-25-2008, 05:46 PM
  #2507  
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

I have not tried it yet but i wired the starter box with a plug that i can attach to a car battery i figure with the amps of a car battery i should not have a problem. I did find a clutch it will be here in a couple weeks i also flipped my mip clutch to the number 4 setting and i get no slip at all on my clutch. They are right about that clutch it locks right away. When i get my aluminium clutch i will run it the same way.
Old 04-28-2008, 03:59 AM
  #2508  
mcal
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

Hi guys,

I have a AE.15 in my RC10GT and when i start the motor in low revs there seems to be fuel coming out of the cylinder head i take that shouldnt happen??? Do i need to get a new head gasket for it ? At high rev's then engine keeps on stalling. Also looking at putting a .18 in there what would recommend as an easy swop ?
Old 04-28-2008, 10:04 AM
  #2509  
Toki
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

I would say you just need to tighten the head down and make sure you glow plug is tight. the 18tz or the 18cvr would be the best motor for your car. i have the 18tz in mine and it is fast and very powerful.
Old 04-28-2008, 10:52 AM
  #2510  
Svtdriver627
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

sorry i haven't posted pics yet, i've been really busy with finals, papers, and projects. and i'm still trying to find a good powerplant for my truck...

~Alex
Old 04-30-2008, 04:55 AM
  #2511  
mxr
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

Hi all
Have a look in the june issue of R/c car , i just won a free subscrbtion as a picture of my car has been published on page 26 in the Reader's Rig's pages !
I am so happy,no more running to the book shop witch has that magazine (150 km away ,they are the closest to get it here in Finland ).
Old 04-30-2008, 10:08 AM
  #2512  
Toki
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that is really cool i will be getting it for sure. can we get a preview of the picture you sent in?
Old 04-30-2008, 12:24 PM
  #2513  
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Here is a update on the rebuild of the GT............ after a few months of rebuilding my car i have almost replaced everything i took it out this last weekend to really bash it hard to see how it would do. Well it seems my car handled great plenty of power and it just drove like a dream. Then i snapped a turnbuckle so i did a field repair then i snapped another = another field repair then the bolts that attach the tie rod to the rear bulk head ripped out another field repair. i was then making a high speed pass and the top ripped of the car lmao and i mean it took the mounts and everything and ripped them right out = another field repair. the months and months i put into this car. i seem to have made a pile of junk. i did get parts to make my car look good and what i though were very strong. i guess i was way way off base. i went back to the drawing board. i have purchased a set of lundsford tie rods. i took out all the blue aluminium bolts and have replaced them with stainless steel. i have also put a nut and bolt on everything i could.i also have replaced every bolt with the longest ones possible to make sure it has plent of bite. I am hoping to take it out next weekend for another hard bashing session. i have 2 parts i can tell GT owners to never ever buy 1 is the GPM tie rod kit (i would suggest rolling up a toothpick with tin foil and useing that instead it will prolly be stronger)and the other is a blue aluminium screw kit(i would suggest glueing the part on with elmers glue it will prolly hold better than these bolts do). both of these are very weak parts and will do nothing more than break. so as of now i have built a tank and i have a feeling if something on it breaks at this point it will be a big job to fix it.

it is okay to laugh i think it is funny as well.

oh wait one more thing i had rpm nuts on my wheels and one of the back ones came loose and my car would not move and one of the front ones came off and i lost a bearing, sence then i have replaced those with stainless steel nuts as well.RPM states on their web site that they have finally built a better plastic or nylon nut"no they have not".They are infact better than nothing but thats about it.

yes all this in one bash session.......
Old 04-30-2008, 01:30 PM
  #2514  
beenbreto
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

Hey any one have the part number for the rotostart the stock engine or recommend a goo starter box. i have one for my buggie and but i would like one for my rc10 thanks!
Old 04-30-2008, 01:35 PM
  #2515  
Toki
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

if you are running rpm rear a arms i would suggest the duratrax or the venom box. The pegs that come with the box will clip right into the a arms perfectly. those 2 boxes are the exact same one just says venom and the other says duratrax.
Old 05-01-2008, 06:41 PM
  #2516  
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread


ORIGINAL: Toki



oh wait one more thing i had rpm nuts on my wheels and one of the back ones came loose and my car would not move and one of the front ones came off and i lost a bearing, sence then i have replaced those with stainless steel nuts as well.RPM states on their web site that they have finally built a better plastic or nylon nut"no they have not".They are infact better than nothing but thats about it.

yes all this in one bash session.......
are you use any kind of lock tight? im hoping that im thinking of the same part you are talking about... i was having the same issues with my gt10 untill i put a bit of that blue liquid lock tight on and problem solved...
Old 05-01-2008, 07:14 PM
  #2517  
Toki
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

LOL yes i have thread lock on everything. I bash hard. well i hope putting a nut and bolt on everything helps do you have any other ideas that could solve my problem or make my truck stronger? i am open to any ideas........
Old 05-01-2008, 08:25 PM
  #2518  
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

man... i wish.

i've been playing with rtr's for the last 3 years. only about 5-6 months ago did i get into doing upgrades on my cars... but soon! i will be Jedi RC master![sm=lol.gif]
Old 05-06-2008, 03:28 PM
  #2519  
misasi
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

I have had some horrible luck with my GT this week. First day at the track i somehow got dirt in the engine and toasted my pretty much brand new OS .15CV. So i figured id put back in my old stock AE .15. I was having a blast and it was running real real strong and then the inner bearing blew up and took out that motor too. Im pretty pissed. So i ordered a brand new AE .15 i just hope it lasts. My original lasted 3 gallons ish.
Old 05-07-2008, 10:20 PM
  #2520  
Toki
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

if you get your motor from AE they are half price....
Old 05-12-2008, 09:40 AM
  #2521  
michael109
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

i have to say the rc 10 is the simplest most funest car i have ever had
i love this car
Old 06-03-2008, 07:21 PM
  #2522  
Toki
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

just keeping it alive.
Old 06-03-2008, 07:28 PM
  #2523  
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

nice bump toki
Old 06-03-2008, 07:47 PM
  #2524  
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

i can't keep the temp in mine down, i have the GT2 and it's running around 290*, the only problem is that i'm 6200 feet above sea level. If i richen the needles, it'll run like crap but the temp will be down to around 230*. Our mechanic at my LHS said that some motors will run hot due to the high altitudes, but i don't want a short engine life...any ideas?
Old 06-03-2008, 07:54 PM
  #2525  
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Default RE: Official RC10GT Thread

cooling head? what motor?


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