steve_massey

I have an rc10gt and just got into off road racing in the st louis area. I need to know a good set up on my shocks as far as what color springs on the front and back shocks, and also what shock oils to start out with, right now im just guessing and dont have a clue.

dannthenitroman

standard setup will be fine.

Dann

bladeCX1464

ok i have a savage 25 and im wanting a st, somebody is willing to trade me an upgraded gt and a upgraded xxx-nt for my savage( it has a os .30vg and a ribbed tuned pipe) or should i sell the savage for a jato?

gordondude24

Check this out blade.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&highlight=tnx

3evoman

still has boring stock ae 15 that sucks


30vg on ur savy?? nice..

bladeCX1464

thx but i still need to know what the best st is.....thx anyway im not looking for another trade im just wanting to know what the best st is
although most of you have the gt

ps. i like johnny cash too

steve_massey

what is standard set up, i bought the truck off ebay, so i have no book or anything on it, thanks

mynesmotorsports

You can download the manual from AE's website here's the link to the manuals page......It has the standars setup in it
http://www.rc10.com/shusting/Catalog...ub_offroad.htm

bladeCX1464

what is the best stadium truck? durability and speed wise? any help would be appreciated

mynesmotorsports

kind of a biased forum to be asking that kinda question isnt it??????? LOL

Seriously though I have an AE RC-10 GT and a Losi XXX-NT and I love them both...... The durabillity of a 1/10 scale stadium truck is a matter of opinion. Racing or Bashing your gonna break stuff although its usually something like a ballcup popping off or stripping a spur gear striping out from a bad landing or incorect gear mesh.

Speed is a matter of gearing not so much the truck you get the stock setup on a GT is a 66T spur gear and a 15T clutch bell. this setup is the most stable all around and is pretty d**n fast. if you want to go faster you can always go down teeth on your spur gear. you'll lose some bottom end but you'll gain top end speed.

Are you looking for an RTR or a build up ARR kit?

dannthenitroman

gearing up is bad as i found out, kills engines, these engines like to rev, not pull high gearing.

Dann

bladeCX1464

i want an RTR, i dont wanna fool with building one

J_Bone

My Feedback: (1)

Start with
Fronts:
Springs - Silver
Oil - 35

Rear:
Springs - Green
Oil - 30

Now these are the most basic racing setup. I race with Ryan Maifield and he said he generally doesn't use any other springs or oil wt than whay I posted. Only on extreme chances will he change a spring or weight. But what does change more often is shock position, ride hieght and limiting down travel. Those are where you fine tune it to your track.

J_Bone

My Feedback: (1)

What do you plan on doing? Racing, Bashing or both?
Both can be fast if setup correctly.
For racing, it comes down to track support. When your racing and you break something( yes it happens to even the best) it's great to be able to get the part and fix your truck and get into the next race. To me that's the main factor. But I have noticed the RC10GT to be more Durable than the Losi AD2, especially for new racers. New racers tend to bounce off things and the GT is more duable there. Now taking maintenace into consideration, both require about the same, but it comes down to how you take care of it!! Both will either be a problem or not.

Now Associated is coming out with a [link=http://www.teamassociated.com/shusting/CatalogHub/kitspecs_gt2/kitgt2.htm]GT2[/link] which is going to be sweet (my next purchase).

3evoman

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4403968/tm.htm

u guys can jus answer here or their

victhadork

can this truck wheelie stock?

bladeCX1464

ok thx but yea im gonna do both more bashing

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

No....

3evoman

ah, having a hard time getting the hex screws off of the top part of the engine mount where the engine is. i only got the upper right hex off but the others dont seem to budge at all. is there a way i can get them off?

avg_joe

Try heat. If the assembler used red locktite instead of blue, heat will loosen that up.
I would use a heat gun, though, not a torch. I've got bad luck with over-heating stuff with fire[:@].

J_Bone

My Feedback: (1)

I use a Soldering Iron on the bolt it's self. WOrks good for me.

3evoman

would a blow dryer work, cuz i have niether of those

J_Bone

My Feedback: (1)

It's worth a shot.

mbrodersen

IF your engine is dying as soon as you hit the brakes then you have a couple of things that could be wrong. First of all make sure your mechanical linkage is set properly. When you hit the brakes does the carburetor close off even more, it shouldn't move at all, there should be about a 1.5mm hole to let air in at idle and full brake. next, Your clutch might need some tuning. most clutches shouldn't work until the engine revs up a bit past idle, sounds like yours might be stuck on all the time. You should be able to idle your engine without it turning the clutch bell, if your brakes are killing the engine this could be a problem. Its not the trucks fault that the engine is hard to start, in general OS engines are some of the easiest most durable 2 cycle engines around. You might need a little bit of tuning on the carb low and high needles and the idle screw may need to be adjusted, its a science in itself so if you know someone that knows how to tune a OS engine, by all means let them do it. All My OS engines start on the first try every time, some have in excess of 5 gallons of nitro through them. Some start after 1 blip on the starter box, others take 10 seconds to get going. Get that engine tuned , the linkage set correctly and the clutch tuned and you will be happy.

bladeCX1464

does anyone own an os .30vg?? ive got one and it wont stay running....ive changed the glow plug and its not burnt up plus it will run through the tank without cutting off if the ignitor is on it. any advice tips or help would be appreciated