subby00

I have an older RC 10 GT with the tub style chassis, it runs good (although i need to tune it a bit). Im a noob at this RC stuff but i have been taking apart and replacing various suspension parts.

Now my problem that I'm having is that I cant get the truck to go straight, the right rear wheel is spinning faster than the left. I have played around a bit with the diff screw trying to loosen and tighten it with no success.

The local hobbie shop A Main Hobbies recommended getting new wheels because my old ones were polishing the bearings, so i replaced those, with no improvement.

Does anyone know what could be going on? The hobbie shop also said my clutch seems to be fine as well.

I was having a problem when I first got the RC 10 GT with the CVD pins that hold the CVD to the hub, they kept slipping out and both A arms were cut into by the pin almost slipping all the way out.
could that have damaged something else i can't see maybe in the gears or elsewhere?

subby00

Anyone!!! i have done a search in the forums and can't seem to find what I'm looking for. ^^^^^^

robbio4422

well bud, your in luck... its your diff. you need to take apart your tranny and check out the gears... make sure everyhting is well lubed up and replace any damaged parts... pull the diff out and make sure its moving freely and maybe even take it apart... a robinson racing diff would work wonders for it! good luck and let me know how it goes

subby00

wow thanks for the answer, i hope its not too hard to do. i havn't taken apart that much on it but everything i have had to do was fairly easy. I'll look into it and do you know where i can get that Robinson diff?

robbio4422

i would search www.towerhobby.com and search for "rc10gt diff" it should pop up

everspeed

It depends on what axles you are running. If you are running 1/4 inch axles, get rid of them and get the 3/16 axles off of a RC10T2, or newer GT model, and the spacers. Sounds like if they are saying you've got wheel bearing problems, you may have the older 1/4 inch axles without the bearings spacers, which was a total pain to use. You had to set the bearing pre-load with the wheel nut, to where as with 3/16" axles, you just tighten them down, and the spacers would keep from smashing the bearings.

If your diff was bad, it would be very rough, or you would have a loss of power similar to a loose slipper clutch. Even if was very rough, you probably could still run it.