AnAlternateEgo

OK, i just today got my jato used. The guy that had it before me said he properly broke it in and he seemed to be pretty trustworthy. I am trying to tune the engine right. I ran it today and i couldn't get it to pop a wheelie so i'm pretty sure i dont have it tuned quite right. First time i ran it it was running hot so i set the high end adjustment back to where the book told me to. ended up being about 3/4 turn further rich than it was originally. So then i ran through a few highspeed passes and i noticed during deceleration it wasn't completely smooth, It was giving kind of a wa-wa(sry for the sound effect, i can't think of any other way to say it.) Isaw in the book where it said pops and clatters meant overheating. Idefintaely wouldn't call what i heard anything as harsh as a pop. But anyway, does this sound normal? OH and i did check the heat in the engine with an infrared thermometer and it was only around 230*F. I saw where the book said anything over 270 was dangerous.

Problem 2. What am i supposed to adjust to lower the idol speed so the car will set still while the trigger is in neutral?

Chris_RC

230 is fine. if you are a newb, soley tune by temps. Get it to run at about 250 degrees on hot days. On the engine, by the HSN, there is a screw that adjustts your idle. Also, make sure the throttle trim nob on yuor radioo is at neutral.

AnAlternateEgo

Another question, The guy with it before me used byron 20% in the engine and game me half a gallon. That is not readily vailable around here so i want to use the traxxas brand 20%. Should i Go ahead and stop using the byrons and switch to the traxxas or do you think it would be ok(or even a sugguestion) to go ahead and finish using the half gallon of byron and switch to the traxxas brand when it runs out?

AnAlternateEgo

Another question. The Brakes. Should i be looking for preformance good enough to lock my tires up? Bc i have fiddled with the settings and it is working better now than it was but it is still barely noticeable.

Chris_RC

Personally, I think Byron fuel is the best out there (race version, NOT RTR). Finish what you have of the Byron, then go to Traxxas and see how much of a performance loss you notice.

I personally like about 30% front break and 50% rear. I like my car to stop from WOT 10 feet from which I put the brake on the concrete. I dont like much brake because since I run on dirt, it makes it uncontrollable to brake before a turn or jump without getting out of control.

AnAlternateEgo

Im not completely sure, but i dont think this car has the option of front or rear breaking. The main component in the brake is some alloy disk that comes off the tranny. It doesn't go directly to the tires.

jikkuria

yea, the jato only brakes on the rear, the disc is on the left side of the tranny. how far from closed is the high speed needle?

AnAlternateEgo

I brought it out 4 full turns, then came back in maybe a half turn. it was about 80degrees out also if that matters.

quietnas1

I'm going to help you address a few things here. !st the engine making the wawawa sound LOL like an old school mazda rotary is normal when the car is slowing down with no brakes applied or barely applied. 2nd I would not reccomend TRAXXAS fuel. If they don't sell Byrons around where you live then see what else they sell. I have used also used Byrons in the past, BlueThunder 30% which I think was great, and now I use Max's 30% which is an awesome fuel but may be hard to find as well. I used TRAXXAS 33% and hated it. I will get back to you on the brakes.

quietnas1

Ok the stock brakes on the Jato suck. The plastic arm that is near the brake disc brgins to warp on the inside from the heat and then it will get to the point where you will not stop at all. If you look on page 26 of the (Official Traxxas Jato 3.3 thread) towards the middle you will see some pics with illustration on small mods that I did on my Jato to make the brakes a hell of a lot better. You will also see a dual brake set up which you don't need. I only got it for looks. The mods you need done are fuel tubing over the adjustment spring and aluminum brake arms or cams. If you like the dual brakes you can get it from Hobbyetc.com. But again you don't need them. With the stock disc my brakes were locking up after I did the mods. Look at the pics bcuz they show some good detail. Hope this helps you out.