RCU Forums - trucks

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- RC Nitro Stadium Trucks (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-nitro-stadium-trucks-243/)

- - trucks (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-nitro-stadium-trucks-243/4237357-trucks.html)

which truck is best tell me the ups and downs on all of them budget isnt limited thank you for all of your comments

3 bashers on the list with one race worthy truck on the list... :eek:

All depends on what you are going to do with it and where you are going to run. Being the MT2 is 4 wheel drive it handles the best. The RC10 is a very good racer but there are not to many places that have a class for a 4 wheel drive stadium truck so racing it is very limited. Those are the only two on your list I would consider my self. All so if I was to get a new MT2 the only one I would consider is the MT2 .18SS.

rustler is one too many head aches. The 2.5, the weak drive shafts and tranny, weak suspension arms, bunkragious shocks...

MT2 if you want to bash. RC10GT if you want to bash and race. Otherwise, I wouldn't even consider the other two.

aha, right there, said it. ^^^

Dann

My Rustler took 2nd place last week. And you say they can't race. LMAO. My first race ever and I get 2nd place with a truck that can't race? The best part is I beat a XXX-NT that has an OS .18 in it.

Quote:

ORIGINAL: rustyrage

My Rustler took 2nd place last week. And you say they can't race. LMAO. My first race ever and I get 2nd place with a truck that can't race? The best part is I beat a XXX-NT that has an OS .18 in it.

What came in first?

It'd be a whole different story if they were RACE LEGAL. Bring that rusty to minnesota, we'll keep it outta the mains.

i just bash there is no tracks around here and is 4 wheel drive hard to workwith because i have a maximum st 2wd and it is a pain and im also a beginner

Not sure what you mean are they hard to work with? Do you me hard to work on? I do not think they are any harder to work on just have more to work on. They sure do handle SO much better then 2 wheel drive!

Quote:

Poor competition? We say Rustlers aren't race worthy because, well... They aren't.

Plus, try racing a stadium truck with a .12, then try with a .18. It doesn't matter how you are with the throttle, you simply can't race compeditively with a .18 engine.

Plus, try racing a stadium truck with a .12, then try with a .18. It doesn't matter how you are with the throttle, you simply can't race compeditively with a .18 engine.
[/quote]

Why do you say you cannot race competitively with a .18? Unless there are track rules I do not see why not. I know people that do it all the time against .12 and .15.

I wonder if he means the .18 would be overpowered? Well anyways, get a rustler on a track with us, either way, it'll finish near the end of the pack with the evaders. Rustlers require way too much work to even get them onto the track. They lack almost every race feature out there.

BUT, to race ready a Nitro Rustler, let me go along here and build up a shopping list. This will make the truck stronger, more durable, and a heck of a lot easier to tune for the track!

THE LIST
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJG49**&P=ML]Nitro Rustler[/link] 294.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAW59&P=Z]MIP CVDs[/link] 35.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFVF7&P=Z]RPM Front Suspension Arm[/link] 9.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFVG0&P=Z]RPM Rear Suspension Arm[/link] 9.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJF59&P=Z]16T Clutch Bell[/link] 10.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJG71&P=Z]Front shock upgrade[/link] 21.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDVA8&P=Z]Rear shock upgrade[/link] 21.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWH21]72T Spur Gear[/link] 3.89
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJG27&P=7]Ball Diff Upgrade from BEVEL GEAR DIFF[/link] 49.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKS2&P=7]Turnbuckle upgrade kit[/link] 36.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSF72&P=7]Upgrade screw kit[/link] 15.59
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJJ88&P=Z]Fiber Washers for SHORT SHAFT ENGINE[/link] 1.90
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJF69&P=Z]Clutch nut for SHORT SHAFT ENGINE[/link]
[link=http://racernine.com/sts12.html]STS .12 Rear Exhaust racing engine (just cut the shaft)[/link] 125.00
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGZS5&P=7]THS Rear Exhaust Kit[/link] 49.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLZ9&P=9]Bump Starter[/link] 69.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL353&P=M]12 Volt Battery Charger[/link] 10.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSK06&P=7]Battery for Bump Starter[/link] 10.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMV43&P=7]RPM Rear wheels[/link] 7.59
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMV47&P=7]RPM Front Wheels[/link] 7.59
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFHL7&P=0]The Edge Front tire R3[/link] 14.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDX80&P=0]Bowtie Rear Tire M3[/link] 14.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGRB0&P=7]Airtronics MX-3S 75Mhz radio[/link] 159.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ87&P=ML]High Speed Steering Servo[/link] 39.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHBZ9&P=7]Hump Pack Receiver Batt[/link] 18.99
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHCF1&P=M]Charger for Hump Pack[/link] 7.59

The Subtotal of that is about $1052.97 for a race ready Rustler, including the truck of course. But, there are still a lot of little things needed to make it complete. Here, I included a different clutch setup due to the fact I added a STANDARD SHAFT style engine instead of the 2.5 style. You'll need to cut the shaft to a short style with a dremel or something similar.

But, a race ready Rustler can be done ;) Do it this way, it'll be one tuff Rustler thats for sure.

Nitro Rustler are a very good truck to race with. I took the championship with mine last year, and it was bone stock. I'm by far NOT the best driver out there either. I go out with the mind set that I'm going to finish every race that I'm in. Granted I only took 1 first place all year and TQ once as well. I was consistantly in the top 3 all year. That is with A&B main every time.

Here's a saying..."Slower is faster" and "Keep it on all 4's and going forward"

Just my .02...and I've only been racing for one year.

And you race in what class with how many people?

Classes here in my series allows ONLY .12 engines and follows almost all RC Pro rules.

far out guys, the rusty can be raced with less than is on that list but it is not competitive in the hands of the same driver.

Dann

I dunno why you guys are all talking about pro racing when alot of people here can even afford it. As far as basic regional or even recreational racing goes, every truck up there can hold its own if the driver has enough practice. The rustler has always been a great truck, it's a brute. The evader is a budget truck and handles well given its price. The HPI MT and MT2 can out corner every ST hands down. And everyone knows the rc10gt is a proven design.

To his/her their own.

most of the stuff on the list is to get the truck comparable to other "race ready rtr" trucks. If i still had website sponsors and what not, with the funds they used to develop, I could have all those parts onto a Rusty in about 2 months and take it to a track.

But if you want to at least have an edge in the run what you brung class, I'd say get the RPM arms, the MIP shafts, the ball diff, the exhaust system, the tires and the shocks... then take it to the track. But, it would be pretty cool to see a Rusty decked out with that shopping list. It'd fare well at a track, thats for sure.

I wish I could race but there are no tracks around here and all I have is bashers as that is all I do. There is one about 50 miles away but with the price of gas and the fact all I have is a motorcycle it is not practical. So I am content just to bash. Matter of fact in the 5 or so years I have been into RC I have never even bashed with any one else. :D

Quote:

ORIGINAL: rustlerkid92

i just bash there is no tracks around here and is 4 wheel drive hard to workwith because i have a maximum st 2wd and it is a pain and im also a beginner

In that case, get the HPI MT.

Quote:

ORIGINAL: Kemo

And you race in what class with how many people?

Classes here in my series allows ONLY .12 engines and follows almost all RC Pro rules.

There were 15-18 trucks in the 1/10 gas class. Also the rules say "If it's RTR you can run the .15" That's why I said it was bone stock. If I had changed anything then it would be illegal to run. But for our small club you could run a 3.3 in it if you want. WE are not going to turn anybody away.

ok so i see you guys are saying the rusty isnt a race truck. ok i have never raced my original(.15) rusty. but i have never brocken anything on, i have carthweeled from a 20ft drop, i've done prettty much everything imaginable with it, and its still running. i jus tnow ordered some rpm stuff for it. oh btw the shocks and drive shafts are a pain in the rear

15-18? I wouldn't really justify that as a braggin right for a truck. The rusty is extremely slow on take off, on a track. the rest of the trucks must be have been equipped with "economy" gear. Almost every truck here has an italian mill in them, or an OS.

Do you even run a setup? or even know how to set the truck up for the track?

yeh agrees, ur last comment of, wheres the OS/novas, and do u guys set ur trucks up? is perfect, coz i think when they said, what would u rather race they meant, what would u rather bash around a park against a mate with. that stuff isnt pro its competition, i race at state tiels etc, anything less isnt a racer its a guy who buggers around a track on weekends a bit.

Dann

Thats the problem with SPORT fuels. They are made rich as heck, to the point where you are actually damaging your engine to get it to run normal. 12% oil is the most I run, and 10 is the least.