There is no information available yet.

Hello
Thanks Drac1

I'm going to ask Cédric and Alain Carayon who are Yamada's dealer in France.
SMAC MODELISME

Due to be available in July.

That's without Super Mount.

82,000 Yen with mount.

Hi guys,

It might be better to open a new thread for the 200.

Regards

I see that oil content has been mentioned but not viscosity. If it is a high viscosity oil then I agree that 20% may be too much. I am currently running 30% nitro 21% synthetic through all my YS engines. My buddy that mixes it for me will not tell me what brand of oil he is using but has told me it is a lower viscosity oil. On my 115 WS it does not smoke nearly as much as it does on my 140 DZ. however both engines run exceptionally well and transition very smoothly. Through both engines I have less oil residue then on my previous mix using the Cool Power Green synthetic.

On a side note, a few weeks ago when flying with Richard Verano I was able to hold a 200 for a few minutes, almost made it into my car before being caught.

The oil I had been using was the Morgan's Cooplower Blue oil which is their standard (?) viscosity oil mixed at 10% with 20% nitro. Some places have referred to it as their high viscosity oil.

I've recently switched to their Multi Viscosity purple oil and ran 15% oil and 30% nitro for a while, which was really nice before I reduced the oil and nitro back to 10% oil and 25% nitro, which dropped the rpm from about 7.5K to 7.2K on a 19x11 APC (I'm at 1500ft). I ran about 2 gallons of that through it but haven't really been happy so I upped the oil back up to 15% with the 25% nitro and picked up about 100rpm.

The engine seems to be more consistent on with the higher oil content so I might stick with the 15% oil for a while longer, however even though the majority of the parts were replaced while trouble shooting, some of those "new" parts probably didn't have the kindest break-in either..

Viscosity has been talked about during this thread. I use 20% MV in non low oil engines and they run great.

Cool Power Green use 17% HV oil.

It's interesting that your buddy won't tell you which oil he is using. I wouldn't buy it not knowing the brand.

The standard blue oil is HV, purple is MV and red is LV.

Reducing nitro will drop rpm, but it seems strange that changing the oil % affects rpm. Viscosity may if ring/liner is worn? That rpm seems about right for the nitro % you are using.
I've run different percentages from 9 - 15% and never had any changes in rpm due to that. But do whatever works for you. As long as it runs well, it doesn't really matter.

The cdi is a different ball game to the glow versions. Don't need to get high rpm, in fact, lower is better as it reduces noise. Prop selection is the most critical thing to get right to make use of the mid range torque.
My 185's make 6900 rpm with the 21 x 10PNC, but with a 19 x 12.5 3 blade, (highly modified), which I tried recently, it made 6600 and the plane flew as well if not a bit better than with the 2 blade.

I finished off the last of the 10% oil mix, drained the tank and filled it with the 15% mix, opened the needle three clicks (didn't touch the reg) and tached it at at just over 7.3K. I closed the needle one click and the tach reading didn't really change, so I put the belly pan back on and didn't touch it for the rest of the day.

Smoke was pouring out like a steam train at high power settings and the oil under the plane was slightly darker than it was before, so I'm guessing I was still a bit rich when running the 10% mix... or is it I'm a bit lean now???... with the YS it's hard to say.

Brett.....I think it will smoke a bit more with the increased oil content...to get the needle just right you're probably going to have to use a tach to sneak up on the peak then richen it about 300 rpm or so until it sounds right.

Dave

A bit lean Brett.

Hello Drac

Very interesting :
"185's make 6900 rpm with the 21 x 10PNC, but with a 19 x 12.5 3 blade, (highly modified), which I tried recently, it made 6600 and the plane flew as well if not a bit better than with the 2 blades"

Where can we buy these 3 blades propellers ?
claude

Hi Claude,

The prop is a Falcon 3 blade 20 x 12.5 electric, which I modified myself. Another benefit is it only weighs 59 grams.

There is going to be a similar 3 blade produced soon, which will weigh around 70 grams. Is at the molding stage now.
This will also suit the 200 perfectly.

Don't want to hijack, but wow....and electric Falcon on a YS 185? First I've heard of using electric props on nitro motors. What modifications did you make? Would love to hear more. I'm thinking of nitro again on my next pattern plane, especially in light of the upcoming fall battery expense of $650 for three new sets.

Before you do that....check the availability of the required fuel and the incredible price these days.

Dave

Yep, I'm lucky to be able to buy the components here. My last prices were:
Methanol $2.70 AUD/litre (20L drum)
Nitromethane $17 AUD/litre (5 litre tin)
Oil $24 AUD/litre (coolpower 3.8 litre bottle)

You can work out what each litre of a specific mix would be, but I'm burning about 250-300ml of 25% nitro 15% oil per P-17 schedule which is about $2.75 AUD per schedule. I reckon you could add about another $1.50 AUD per schedule for general wear and tear (engine and servo's).

The wear and tear numbers are rough, but I don't think they're too far from the mark. I've used the "per schedule" as a benchmark so the apples and oranges have a common ground (tree?).

I'm not too concerned about it, knowing the exact brand won't nesessarily make it any better or worse. Like going to the gas station and filling your car. I doubt you are concerned about which refinery it came from. I tend to place more importance on results. I have used this fuel in both sport flying/pattern applications and racing applications with YS 4 strokes and my engines have not had the same performance ( idle, transition, top end ) with any of the other few brands/mixes I have tried. A good testimonial is that rather then have a local guy bring fuel to me, I opted for a 4 hour drive to go pick up my current mix.

Depending on location and with the efficiency of cdi, YS running costs aren't as high as many think. These are my last prices.

Methanol $1.42 AUD/litre
Nitro $15 AUD/litre
Oil $24 AUD/litre Cool Power MV

Using 10% oil and 30% nitro, I use 250mls per P17 schedule. This equates to $1.91 AUD per schedule. As for maintenance costs, I don't bring servos into that as I very rarely have to replace servos. Engine maintenance is mostly bearings and seals every 150 flights or so, which is nowhere near $1.50 per flight. Added costs for electrics, are chargers and power supplies etc, plus many have the investment of a generator as well.

Based on the battery price mentioned above and with the current exchange rate, I would get 460 flights for the same money. Not sure how many flights you would get from a set of batteries?

The big debate that always ensues regarding the cost between electrics and YS is really a waste of time. Where you live plays a big part in cost for both propulsion systems. Some have a hard time getting nitro fuels and for some the cost and hassle of shipping batteries is a problem. Personal preference also is a factor. For me, YS's are easy and reliable, just fuel and fly. Electrics on the other hand, seem to be a hassle with battery charging, monitoring mah consumption and dischargestorage voltage.

At the end of the day, it's each to their own. Use whatever suits you best.

Different brands will have different specifications, but if what you are using gives the results and performance required and you are happy with it, that's all that matters.

I am particular where I fill my car up. I don't just stop at the first or cheapest place I find. At times I've been on vapour using very careful throttle management to get to the station I want to use.

I ran magnum 30% heli in my 1.75 DZ. Motor ran great. I didn't have any problem with it.

You can get it delivered for $21.60 /gal, has to go to a business address though.

22% synthetic, it smoked some, but that didn't really bother me.

That comes out to a pretty reasonable $/flight.

Drac.....my experience is exactly the opposite or yours.
I should send you my 170 CDI and lets see if you can get it going reliably.....I can't and i've been doing this a loooong time.
Electric is totally the opposite of what you said.....
Turn the switch on....it runs....every time.
Turn it off....stack it in the corner...come back 2 years later and it just runs....no rusty bearings or corroded parts.
Chargers and batteries....I have been using the same chargers for the past 5 years for thousands of charges.....I just don't get what you are saying.
I know for sure I have over 1300 flights on just one F3A airplane....and I have 3 of them.
I also have one more with the 170 CDI that I gave up on. I might have flown it 50 flights because of that engine.
However.....I still have 55 gallons of CP Heli 30% fuel....I really would like to fly the YS engines but I am reluctant to invest more money into any DZ engine.
I had great luck with the FS engines though....without that damn pump.

Dave

Is Buzz still around??
I figured he had packed it in years ago.
I bailed on him when he wanted me to pull out the element on the glow plug.
I used his stuff occasionally and as I recall it ran well....never tried it on the 170 CDI though.
He had some disagreement with the local shop so they never had any more of it....I didn't want to invest in a lot of it so I went back to CP.

Dave

Different strokes for different folks Dave

I have a Pinnacle that I just got flying again. The DZ160 hadn't run for around 5 years. I didn't do anything special when I parked it, just ran the engine out of fuel and that's it.
I put some fuel down the carb and turned it over to get some through the engine, primed it and it fired up straight away. Doesn't miss a beat.