Venus 40 empennage controls?
#1
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Hello all,
I just got a GP Venus 40 and I have been looking over the instruction manual for it (I'm out of town right now, so I can't work on it until Sunday [
]). Anyway, I downloaded the manual a while back and was looking it over and I have come to the conclusion that I do not like the elevator push rod set up that they have. Is there something that is relatively cheap that would be a little sturdier than a wheel collar holding the two elevator pushrods?
Also, I was kinda wanting to do a pull-pull rudder set up in this airplane and was wondering if that would be a good idea or not. The pull-pulls on my Hydeout and Carden Cap were both in the airframe when I acquired them, so I don' t know how much of a headache it would be to put that in an airplane this small.
Thanks alot guys!
I just got a GP Venus 40 and I have been looking over the instruction manual for it (I'm out of town right now, so I can't work on it until Sunday [
]). Anyway, I downloaded the manual a while back and was looking it over and I have come to the conclusion that I do not like the elevator push rod set up that they have. Is there something that is relatively cheap that would be a little sturdier than a wheel collar holding the two elevator pushrods? Also, I was kinda wanting to do a pull-pull rudder set up in this airplane and was wondering if that would be a good idea or not. The pull-pulls on my Hydeout and Carden Cap were both in the airframe when I acquired them, so I don' t know how much of a headache it would be to put that in an airplane this small.
Thanks alot guys!
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From: Milford,
NJ
a pull-pull will be a no-brainer for the Venus. Just cut one more slot in the back of the fuse for the second wire. I believe sullivan makes a very nice pull-pull system.
mike
mike
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From: sparta,
TN
[8D] it already has the slot they say its for the reciver wire look at hobby lobby for the split elevator connector they have a great thing its made out of aluninum it has 3 set screws and works great i use them in all plane that have 2 wires including a 1/4 scale cub
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From: Brandon, MS
Ryan, don't blame you for wanting to change the setup, but if you give up and build it per the instructions you will like it and get good service out of it anyway.
Ed M.
Ed M.
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From: Franklin, TN,
The setup isn't sexy, but it works. Put a slight z bend in one of the pushrods to get the 2 next to each other so they move without binding, and you'll be fine. Put a little locktite on the set screws. The only weak spot I found is the wheel pants.. Seen a couple of threads on here somewhere that talk about different ways of mounting them. Might look that up.. Eventually one of mine broke and became a ski. HTH, Chuck
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From: NH
I didn't like the elevator pushrods, substituted inner nyrod for the music wire, put a 2-56 stud in each end at the servo end, laid the two ends on either side of a third stud, wrapped the trio with fine copper wire, soldered it up (before threading the nyrods on), put a clevis on the middle stud to hook to servo arm. Lighter weight, better action, less trim problems with changes in weather. On the rudder I went with push-pull nyrod and had no control problems, but pull/pull would be nicer.
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From: Cupertino, CA,
Just wrap the two pusrods together with copper wire and solder the joint, it will never break.
As for the wheelpants just look up the Venus 40 review here at RCU, the article incorporates a mounting method I described on the forums a while back.
Filip
As for the wheelpants just look up the Venus 40 review here at RCU, the article incorporates a mounting method I described on the forums a while back.
Filip
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From: Perth, AUSTRALIA
I ripped all the control rod snakes out of the fuselage, as I hate doing things this way (esp on rudders) with a passion.
I started again. I used a JR 591 on the rudder, with 40lb pull pull cables and small sleeves through the fuselage sides.
For the elevator I used a hollow glasshaft arrow shaft with a Y set of pushrods bound onto one end and a short pushrod joining to the servo.
It's light and strong, and VERY effective.
Incidentally, to save weight, I also used a GWS naro servo for the throttle up forward, and an AAA sized NiMH battery pack.
All up weight, 5.1 lb with an OS 61SF.
I started again. I used a JR 591 on the rudder, with 40lb pull pull cables and small sleeves through the fuselage sides.
For the elevator I used a hollow glasshaft arrow shaft with a Y set of pushrods bound onto one end and a short pushrod joining to the servo.
It's light and strong, and VERY effective.
Incidentally, to save weight, I also used a GWS naro servo for the throttle up forward, and an AAA sized NiMH battery pack.
All up weight, 5.1 lb with an OS 61SF.
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From: Los Angeles,
CA
I moved the rudder servo to a hole I cut underneath the rear of the fuselage, and used two 2-56 rods to push and pull on both sides of a double horn arrangement on the rudder. This setup exactly balanced the OS 61 FX without any need for extra weights.
-David C.
-David C.
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From: Perth, AUSTRALIA
Why two solid rods???
are you planning on making it walk on it's rudder or something??
Mine will knife edge figure "M" with pull pull cables...
Seems like a bit of overkill
are you planning on making it walk on it's rudder or something??
Mine will knife edge figure "M" with pull pull cables...
Seems like a bit of overkill
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From: Perth, AUSTRALIA
True, but I'm curious as to how your pull pull cables broke.
Mine are strong enough that a destructive test showed that the servo arm will break before my swages or my cable.
And yes, I did go flying across the workshop when I did it!
Mine are strong enough that a destructive test showed that the servo arm will break before my swages or my cable.
And yes, I did go flying across the workshop when I did it!




