Webra 160 question?
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From: Savaneta, ARUBA
Hello everyone,
Yesterday I have received my new motor; this is the Webra 160 Aero XP.
Now I have reed the instruction book and was wondering if anyone is using the following methode:
The instruction book tells you that if you use a higher % than 15% nitro you should use a
SHIM WASHER approx 0.2mm, this is to reduce the motor compression. (So the instruction book said)
Any thought about this??
How should I do this??( method )
And where could I get this??
I thinking of using the Morgan's 30%Helli fuel for better lubrication.
Thanks in advance for the info,(suggestion)
Danny
Yesterday I have received my new motor; this is the Webra 160 Aero XP.
Now I have reed the instruction book and was wondering if anyone is using the following methode:
The instruction book tells you that if you use a higher % than 15% nitro you should use a
SHIM WASHER approx 0.2mm, this is to reduce the motor compression. (So the instruction book said)
Any thought about this??
How should I do this??( method )
And where could I get this??
I thinking of using the Morgan's 30%Helli fuel for better lubrication.
Thanks in advance for the info,(suggestion)
Danny
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From: Oranjestad, ARUBA
Hi DAnny
From what I heard is that european engines like low nitro.So why spend money on high nitro fuel. Can I test out your new engine?? ( I'm looking at either the Webra or Mintor in a Eclipse)
C Lim
From what I heard is that european engines like low nitro.So why spend money on high nitro fuel. Can I test out your new engine?? ( I'm looking at either the Webra or Mintor in a Eclipse)
C Lim
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From: Plano,
TX
I think your wastin your money on 30%... save it for the 4C guys.
Cool Power 15% or any number of current 15% fuels will give you plenty of power and protection.
About all the nitro is going to do for you is maybe give you a better idle depending on conditions.
Plus your going to wear out more stuff... plugs, rods,rings.
You will find that 1.60 will haul any pattern plane you put it in.
My Mintor 1.70 will run just as good on 10% as it will on 20%.
Wayne G.
Cool Power 15% or any number of current 15% fuels will give you plenty of power and protection.
About all the nitro is going to do for you is maybe give you a better idle depending on conditions.
Plus your going to wear out more stuff... plugs, rods,rings.
You will find that 1.60 will haul any pattern plane you put it in.
My Mintor 1.70 will run just as good on 10% as it will on 20%.
Wayne G.
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From: Owasso,
OK
Hi Pro Pattern,
I have the 145AAR and a friend is running the 160AAR with 15% cool power.... (Both will fly a Revolution Pro [a large pattern airplane and 10.5lbs) through the Masters pattern with plenty of vertical (and yes the 160 has more ooomph than the 145) You shouldn't need any more lube and the power is fantastic. Good advice from these guys....save your money
enjoy the Webra.
Chris
I have the 145AAR and a friend is running the 160AAR with 15% cool power.... (Both will fly a Revolution Pro [a large pattern airplane and 10.5lbs) through the Masters pattern with plenty of vertical (and yes the 160 has more ooomph than the 145) You shouldn't need any more lube and the power is fantastic. Good advice from these guys....save your money
enjoy the Webra.Chris
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From: Savaneta, ARUBA
Hello everyone,
Hello, Chee Chong. Of course, you’ll get the chance to try out this engine, so you could
make a decision.
Nos ta topa diadomingo. (Hiba e motor bo wak?)
Thanks for the reply’s and now I don’t have to worry about the lubrication of this engine.
I’ll use the Morgan’s Omega 15% for fuel.
I’ll just keep things simple, by using normal 15% and also kipping the fuel cost low.
Again thanks,
Danny
Hello, Chee Chong. Of course, you’ll get the chance to try out this engine, so you could
make a decision.
Nos ta topa diadomingo. (Hiba e motor bo wak?)
Thanks for the reply’s and now I don’t have to worry about the lubrication of this engine.
I’ll use the Morgan’s Omega 15% for fuel.
I’ll just keep things simple, by using normal 15% and also kipping the fuel cost low.
Again thanks,
Danny
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From: Houston, TX
While I have no experience with the Webra 160, I do own a 120 and it flies great !!! ... It's an excellent engine.
The reason why it tells you to add a shim is because the comperssion in your Webra is very high already. You *might* not feel it, but being a ringed engine, when the ring expands it creates a lot more compression. You add a shim to lower the compression a bit because higher nitro fuels are more explosive (nitro supplements O2).
There's nothing wrong running 15% nitro ... you will save $$ and the engine will have A LOT of power. The reason why its designed to run w/15% nitro is because in Europe (where Webra engines are made) Nitro is very expensive so people only run 15% at the most.
The reason why it tells you to add a shim is because the comperssion in your Webra is very high already. You *might* not feel it, but being a ringed engine, when the ring expands it creates a lot more compression. You add a shim to lower the compression a bit because higher nitro fuels are more explosive (nitro supplements O2).
There's nothing wrong running 15% nitro ... you will save $$ and the engine will have A LOT of power. The reason why its designed to run w/15% nitro is because in Europe (where Webra engines are made) Nitro is very expensive so people only run 15% at the most.
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From: Klagenfurt, AUSTRIA
Hello.
Webra engines are made in Austria. Here is the link:
http://www.webra-austria.at/fra_mot.htm
It is correct that nitro is very expansive in Europe ( the price for one liter 98% nitro is about USD 23,00). One gallon with 15% Cool Power costs about USD 30,00. This is one reason why the Webra engine is designed to work with less nitro. Last month i visited the Webra factory in Niederösterreich/Austria/Europe. Mister Kaineder, the owner of the factory showed us everything from the beginning to the completely installed engine. It was very interesting. He also told us, that nitro is necessary, but only 15 to 20% maybe less. I think Japanese engines need more nitro.
By the way: whats the nitro price (about 98%) for one liter. Or one gallon with 15% nitro like cool power in the USA or Canada?
Greetings from Carinthia / Austria
Klaus
Webra engines are made in Austria. Here is the link:
http://www.webra-austria.at/fra_mot.htm
It is correct that nitro is very expansive in Europe ( the price for one liter 98% nitro is about USD 23,00). One gallon with 15% Cool Power costs about USD 30,00. This is one reason why the Webra engine is designed to work with less nitro. Last month i visited the Webra factory in Niederösterreich/Austria/Europe. Mister Kaineder, the owner of the factory showed us everything from the beginning to the completely installed engine. It was very interesting. He also told us, that nitro is necessary, but only 15 to 20% maybe less. I think Japanese engines need more nitro.
By the way: whats the nitro price (about 98%) for one liter. Or one gallon with 15% nitro like cool power in the USA or Canada?
Greetings from Carinthia / Austria
Klaus
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From: Savaneta, ARUBA
Hello everyone,
I’m planning on using the 15 % nitro fuels, but there are two type’s “Morgan’s”
The 15 % Cool Power and the 15 % Omega.
What is the deferent between those fuels??
And also what is the suggested ( or mostly used ) fuel for this engine??
Hope to run this engine soon.
Thanks,
Danny
I’m planning on using the 15 % nitro fuels, but there are two type’s “Morgan’s”
The 15 % Cool Power and the 15 % Omega.
What is the deferent between those fuels??
And also what is the suggested ( or mostly used ) fuel for this engine??
Hope to run this engine soon.
Thanks,
Danny
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From: Woodstock, GA
It really depends on how much you fly.
Cool power is totally synthetic, but if you let it sit, it can cause the bearings to corrode faster.
Omega has a castor blend, which tends to coat the bearings and somewhat inhibit the corrosion process, but it leaves a black varnish on your engine's internal parts.
If you fly every 3 days or more, then use cool power. If you fly less than that, then use omega...OR just flush the engine out and use a good after run oil.
-Mike
Cool power is totally synthetic, but if you let it sit, it can cause the bearings to corrode faster.
Omega has a castor blend, which tends to coat the bearings and somewhat inhibit the corrosion process, but it leaves a black varnish on your engine's internal parts.
If you fly every 3 days or more, then use cool power. If you fly less than that, then use omega...OR just flush the engine out and use a good after run oil.
-Mike
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From: Savaneta, ARUBA
ORIGINAL: MHester
...OR just flush the engine out and use a good after run oil.
-Mike
...OR just flush the engine out and use a good after run oil.
-Mike
I was planning on doing that, because over here in Aruba everything
tends to rust and our flying field is located near the ocean.
So if I use after run oil, I could use both??
Danny
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From: Woodstock, GA
Both what? Yes, absolutely.....with either fuel. You may be better off with Omega, since you live in such a harsh humid climate. Just be prepared, after about 300 runs you'll need to disassemble and polish everything inside. I had one OS 1.40RX I must have over 1000 runs on, all with Omega. I had to replace the ring about every 3-400 runs, but the bearings never rusted. I changed them anyway while I had it torn down, just to be ahead of the game so to speak.
Yeah, in Aruba, I'd think Omega+ after run oil......definitely.
-Mike
P.S. Which schedules do you use for that Aruba contest in October? FAI, AMA, both? Something different? I may have to plan a vacation down there to have some fun [8D]
Yeah, in Aruba, I'd think Omega+ after run oil......definitely.
-Mike
P.S. Which schedules do you use for that Aruba contest in October? FAI, AMA, both? Something different? I may have to plan a vacation down there to have some fun [8D]
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From: Garland,
TX
Most of the pattern guys in the Texas running the Webra 1.45/1.60, OS 1.40 and Mintor 1.40/170 seem to use either Magnum or CoolPower (10% or 15% depending on the temperature, 15% when it's hotter)
Personally I'd go with the pure synthetic oil rather than the blend to avoid varnishing the engine.
As to the comment about running more oil in the engine, it isn't a good idea to add too much oil, most of these engines shouldn't have higher than 18% oil. The theory is that they actually run cooler on slightly less oil, 16% or 17%. It's probably not a bad idea to break-in with 18%, but I don't know if it's necessary.
Regarding rusting bearings and your climate, you should expect your original bearings to need replacement in no more than 50 flights, maybe as few as 30. With these engines you definitely need to learn to replace bearings because it seems to be a frequent process. I suggest running it dry and using after run oil (especially in your climate), but it won't prevent rusted bearings, maybe just delay it slightly.
Keith
Personally I'd go with the pure synthetic oil rather than the blend to avoid varnishing the engine.
As to the comment about running more oil in the engine, it isn't a good idea to add too much oil, most of these engines shouldn't have higher than 18% oil. The theory is that they actually run cooler on slightly less oil, 16% or 17%. It's probably not a bad idea to break-in with 18%, but I don't know if it's necessary.
Regarding rusting bearings and your climate, you should expect your original bearings to need replacement in no more than 50 flights, maybe as few as 30. With these engines you definitely need to learn to replace bearings because it seems to be a frequent process. I suggest running it dry and using after run oil (especially in your climate), but it won't prevent rusted bearings, maybe just delay it slightly.
Keith
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From: Woodstock, GA
ORIGINAL: KeithB
Regarding rusting bearings and your climate, you should expect your original bearings to need replacement in no more than 50 flights, maybe as few as 30. With these engines you definitely need to learn to replace bearings because it seems to be a frequent process. Keith
Regarding rusting bearings and your climate, you should expect your original bearings to need replacement in no more than 50 flights, maybe as few as 30. With these engines you definitely need to learn to replace bearings because it seems to be a frequent process. Keith
-Mike
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From: Chapel Hill, NC
In my experience you must use after run oil or the bearing will quickly fail. I did a test: Ran the engine dry after use but no after run oil - the bearing had to be replaced after 10 gallons of fuel. Another Webra 1.45, where after run oil was used, still has the original bearing after 2 years - I lost track of how much fuel has been through it, but a lot. It was my primary engine until I acquired a 1.60 this season.
Lee Davis
[link=http://www.piedmontmodels.com]Piedmont Models[/link]
Lee Davis
[link=http://www.piedmontmodels.com]Piedmont Models[/link]
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From: Savaneta, ARUBA
Hello Mike,
It depends on how many contestants we could get to come over here.
We are planning to fly AMA class’s sportsman through masters. If there is enough interest we might add a po5 class.
Hope that you could come and join our contest and have some fun.
Fore more info about our program, visit our website
[link=http://www.arubarcclub.com]www.arubarcclub.com[/link]
Danny
It depends on how many contestants we could get to come over here.
We are planning to fly AMA class’s sportsman through masters. If there is enough interest we might add a po5 class.
Hope that you could come and join our contest and have some fun.
Fore more info about our program, visit our website
[link=http://www.arubarcclub.com]www.arubarcclub.com[/link]
Danny
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From: Savaneta, ARUBA
Hello Mr. Lee,
I’m going to put the motor-Box on my FOCUS II soon and now
wonder what trust angel do you use?? The stock one on the motor-Box??
Thanks
I was planning on using Hobbico After-Run oil.
Danny
I’m going to put the motor-Box on my FOCUS II soon and now
wonder what trust angel do you use?? The stock one on the motor-Box??
Thanks
I was planning on using Hobbico After-Run oil.
Danny



