RCFREEK

As the title suggests, what engine do u guys recommend with it? i've seen it flying with a 91 fx with standard muffler. what do u say? secondly, im thinking of using the hitec 645MG servos all over. comments

rwlewis

My Feedback: (4)

Mine flies great on a 91FZ/Stock Muffler and Futaba 9202's on 4 cell pack on the flight surfaces. I run 20% fuel and a 14x10 prop. I got it used, the prior owner had run the pipe on it, but it was too much of a PIA with the 1-peice wing, and it's just as quiet or quieter with the stock muffler.

Richard
Tomball, TX

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

I had a TT 120 RE on mine, and it had PERFECT power. It wouldn't idle down enough for my, but I think it was the specific engine I had, not the engine design itself.

One thing though: it's now deceased. I would name this plane the G-Brick. That thing is HEAVY for a plane of it's size. I build some of the lightest wood 2 meter planes around, and I couldn't get it under 9 lbs. The wing alone, right out of the box was over 3 lbs. If you dead stick, you better have some altitude, because it drops like a brick.

And don't let them fool you, it's weak and hot glued just like most ARFs. Oh they put epoxy and such in the places you can see, but when you peel it open *cough* guess what? HOT GLUE HELL.

Beef the gear block plate that runs behind the engine area. It's one piece, and there's NO angles/braces or anything. My whole front end cracked off after about 30 flights. Ya gotta love ARFs.

On the plus side, that wing could withstand a direct nuclear blast. It's double sparred and has a high rib count, and is sheeted in steel plates....err I mean thick (heavy) wood. It won't fold.

Have fun

-Mike

swill

My Feedback: (17)

I second what Mike says. Hot glue everywhere... even the balsa sides were not glued to the lite ply in the fuselage. It is on the heavy side. Used to have a YS 91FZ on mine and it was nice with that power. However, the engine constantly gave me troubles. Now flying with an OS 91FSII-P. Wish I had more power! Might upgrade to a 91FX or similar (new Webra 91?)

I used 9202's on each elevator half - I am using dual elevator servos in the tail with a JR matchbox to match them. Rudder is Hitec 5945 and ailerons are 5625's just because I had the Hitecs laying around.

A fellow club member has one with the 91FX and it has all the power it needs with a APC 14-10. Good luck with yours. Add glue wherever you can!

- Scott

Tseng

I suggest YS 91 FZ/110 FZ to be installed if you want to perform some advance manuevers(ex. vertical climb with snap-roll). OS91FX is a economic choice for general flight but for pattern practice it's too weak.
Be careful of the weight while you building it. 3600-3800g is suggested(mine is only 3500). it will fly like a brick if it weighs over 4000.
about servos:
throttle: JR 371
aileron: JR 591(x2)
rudder: Futaba 9204
Elevator: Futaba 9151

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

How in the world did you get that thing to 3500? Did you forget to install the engine???? I grinded, lightened, used the lightest servos and hardware, and it STILL came in at 4200+. And I can build a solid wood Wide body 2 meter pattern plane at 4500 EASY. I must have gotten the one they were using to anchor the boat that brought it over, or something.

I didn't like the way it flew anyway. It dropped like a brick when the power came off, the elevators and stabs were warped, it went nuts in a crosswind due to those stupid wingtips, and even with the throws turned WAY down and 80% expo it was touchy around center.

Or maybe I'm just spoiled. I don't know, I'll see how it compares to my new Widebody 60 when I get it done.

-Mike

Tseng

Hi MHester:
Some modifications of my G-trick were made, maybe they will be useful to you:
1. change the landing gear from aliminum to carbon fiber
2. use YS110FZ, this engine is 30g lighter than YS 91FZ and more powerful
3. change the position of the tank to near CG, then you can remove the second former. don't be afriad to do so, G-trick is still Bullet-Proof even without it.
4. replace servo tray with honey-comb
5. replace all these 4mm cap screws with aluminum ones, lots of weight can be saved
6. replace original wheel and wheel pants with those from China, they maybe ugly but really light
7. use NIMH battery, since I avoid using too many digital servos, 1000mAh can afford 3 full course-flight of P03
8. if you put any pilot on your G-trick, remove it. another 30g saved.
9. For elevator, Y-push rod is enough. don't bother to use that ball beraing coupler from MK
best regard

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

The things I did were much lighter than that I believe, except for removing the second former....the gear block is very very weak as I later discovered.

I used every pattern trick in the book, I probably cut a full pound off that plane....and it was still heavy. There's not much you can do when the plane is over 6 lbs right out of the box without the landing gear and nothing installed. And every time I flew it, something structiral failed, and I had to fix it...more weight. Believe me, I appreciate your advise, but I know I was dealing with a brick from the beginning.

Besides, after it cracked the fuse in half on a landing (from dead sticking and falling like a bomb) I gutted it and stomped it to pieces. I don't like ARFs, and I have no idea what temporary insanity overtook me to buy this one. I'll stick to building my own planes, that way I have control over what it is like when it is finished. Straight, light and strong. ARFs tend to be crooked, heavy and weak. Even the best of them just aren't up to my standards.

Those that can't build will always be at the mercy of those who can.......

Anyway believe me when I tell you that there was no way I could have gotten this plane any lighter without making it a glider. The battery pack I used was only 3.8 ozs BTW. The engine was lighter than a YS 110, and the exhaust was 3 ozs. The servos were minis except the rudder. The fuel tank was on the CG. The LG was composite, the wheels were the light MK wheels with aluminum axles. No wheel pants. The spinner was tru turn with light back plate.

The plane was a flying brick and I hated it. I'm actually glad it's dead. If yours is indeed 3500 grams, then congradulations....you got a good one and you did very well in assembling it. I hope you enjoy yours more than I did mine, it was nothing but an expensive headache.

-Mike

PepsiMike

Gee Mike, tell us how you really feel.


Now its time for my "your not gonna believe this" story. Two years ago I had a G-Trick.....flew it for a while with a YS91 and thought it did okay.....but it was my first "real" pattern plane other than a Killer Kaos.

Then one day I was flying straight and level (Sportsman pattern back then) and I heard a loud buzz. I immediately cut power and flew parallel to the runway preparing for a dead stick landing. Upon turning to final the plane just spiraled down until it hit the ground - I couldn't belive it. "Did I stall it" I wondered.

Upon examining the wreckage, I discovered that the covering had peeled back on the leading edge of the wing - thus acting as a leading edge slat or speed break (but only on one wing) and had most likely caused its demise.

Was pretty bummed considering the cost of the ARF kit.

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

LOL

Ya know, I really didn't mean to sound like I was upset or anything. But I guess the more I typed, the more I remembered what a pain in the rear that thing really was.

I've gotten used to good pattern planes, where you set the needle, then fire it up and fly fly fly for about 1000 flights without messing with anything (no, I don't run YS as you can tell )

And then I got this.....thing........

Ahh well, I needed a smaller plane to mess with so I had something to fly OTHER than a zillion dollar pattern plane. I thought the G-Brick was it........

[X] Wrong answer!!!!!!!!

So let's see how this new Widebody does. Heck it can't be any worse.

-Mike

flywilly

My Feedback: (121)

Hey Mike,
I enjoyed your rant about the G-Trick as only another G-Trick owner can... :-( I still have mine. I tried a Swallow, too. Both airplanes flew pretty well, but I'll never buy another ARF. Except maybe a FocusII
If you're looking for a smaller pattern ship try the MK Skystar. It is an all wood kit, but you won't be disappointed. MK kits can be framed up very quickly as the parts fit is fantastic. An OS .91fx with a Karl Mueller wrap around header would be a great combination. Or the new pumped Webra 1.20 side exhaust with a K.M. wrap header. Just my 2 cents.
Happy flying,
Will B.

swill

My Feedback: (17)

Here are two pics that may illustrate the lack of glue used on this thing. On my 2nd flight ever, I had a deadstick (YS 91) downwind and low. To make matters worse I acidentally flipped to hi rates on my 9Z. Little damage was done but enough for me to go in and fix her up well.

[ul][*] Lack of glue on balsa sides to ply fuse doublers. I did nothing to enhance this pic or sand the ply - the balsa came off that cleanly.[*] Delamination of the wing hold down plate (the one with the blind nuts to receive wing hold down bolts).[*] Check out the lack of glue on firewall - I easily pulled it back. No glue remnants in there.
[/ul]

I showed these and other pics to Great Planes. They offered to replace my plane but after all the work I put into it to make it right I kept it (looks as good as new!). As a nice gesture they kindly gave me a credit towards a TF Bonanza kit that I wanted at the time (it doesn't fly pattern that well! hahaa)

My elevators are warped. One is level with the stab and one is slightly higher at the counterbalance. I know the elevator travels are equal as well as neutral by using two long sticks attached to each stab. Yet at neutral one stab is higher than the other in the front.

Hope this helps,
Scott

MHester

My Feedback: (1)

That's amazing, swill. Talk about dejavu.

Dead stick, and mine broke in almost EXACTLY the same places. That smells like design weakness.

Only mine looks a little different now Like a wood chipper exploded. It's funny how frustration can do that.....

-Mike