Hoping there's someone out here with a creative solution to a pesky problem.... on my own rotational mount, with the OS 1.60, I think I need to install a nose ring....Arresti is a "cowling" nose, so can't go there....don't want to replace cowling with built up wooden assy.
Any ideas for making some kind of tripod/post affair that would attach to the firewall ( I have area of firewall around the mount that is accessible on all sides) to mount the nose ring to???

Hello aerobob

A friend of mine just finished his aresti with a own homebuilt cowl in cowl nosering mount built from carbonfiber with a 1 liter coke bottle.
I'll will post his picture tomorrow.

C Lim

can't find the finished product but he build the mold , see pic

Jock has sent me pics of the finished goods. VERY nice. However, I can't / don't want to "mold my own" as you all did....too lazy. It looks terrific, and should work just fine! I was sure impressed by that innovation!

Bob, I dont know how much room you have but how about a couple of long t-beams on either side of your current mount that extend to catch the nose ring? Maybe some fabricated aluminum brackets out of 16 ga would be adequate.


Ive always ran a nose ring, just wondered without it why you feel its necessary now?

I was interest to see Sean McMurty runs the YS w/ Yamada mount. He described it as providing more stability for the rear of the engine. Interesting that that would be discernable in flight. I tend to think you fly around all these errors in the airframe with practice, but without that it may reduce pilot workload.

On the 1st Arresti, I'm running the plywood plate/Davis "well-nut" mount, and the nose doesn't wobble enough to make me notice. Probably too stiff, but that's what is on it. On THIS Arresti, I've installed one of my rotational mounts, and in test runs yesterday it looked like it may NOT need a nose ring.

But - if I do, I wanted to have a plan to do it. Not enough side room for the alum tees, but that's a good idea. Some have suggested a spruce longeron-based "tripod" or "tetrapod" terminating in a ply plate that the actual nose ring then mounts onto. Sounds reasonable, just don't know yet.

Here is something from Ola Fremming's website. He put a couple of carbon fiber tubes holding the nose ring and going back to the sides of the engine box in his Funtana S.

http://home.online.no/~ofremmi/MyHan...de-mount-1.jpg

Here's what I did, to fit my YS 140L. Works very well and is very light.
Basically 1/4 inch balsa, laminated with som 1/16 ply. Then keyed into the firewall with 2 x 1/8 inch dowels on each side, with some added triangle balsa.

I installed the "hyde mount" first, in the correct place, then tack glued a couple of 1/4 balsa sticks to the nose ring crade. The sticks sat on top of the hyde mount engine bearers, ensuring it all lined up perfectly.

Here's a couple of pics.

Regards, BruceT
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This is beyond coincidence, guys! NOTICE the AIRPLANE...that's an Arresti III, ARF color scheme, probably built by ESM ??? Great nose ring mounts....
(check my Avatar!!)

Yes it is an Aresti, one of the original ARF's.
It's a little heavy, but the YS pulls it around ok, sometimes I would like more power, but on windy days, the extra weight actually helps it sit better.

Still going strong, I haven't gone for the newer/lighter one yet, which has a built up wing. Here in the Land of Oz, I have seen one of the new ones, very light. BUT, I am concerned how short the wing tube is. A couple of guys here have taken the trouble to lengthen the tube, which means some minor/major surgery to add an extra wing socket.

Maybe people who have the new/latest Aresti III, could measure their wing tube, and tell where it finishes in the wing?

Or has anybody had any trouble with the wing tube as is?

I have both the "old" foam wing, short tube, and it needed a false ply rib added at the end of the balsa tube socket box. Okay after that.

The "new" is the fully-built up wing, and the tube extends into the wing 10.5", still 25mm diameter, and seems to be inserted into a socket that is anchored at each rib, with a ply doubler at the outermost rib. At that point, it looks to be tied to the upper and lower spar with that rib.

Haven't test flown it yet, but it came out the same weight as the foam version, but several improvements made.

I *really* like the way she flies, else I wouldn't have TWO. OS 1.60's for power, Mac's tuned pipe, Perry Pump, Mueller header, doing about 8100 with an APC 15.75 x 12 three blader. Std. APC 17x12 goes at 8400, and is WAY too fast.

*LOVE* the snap entry, and roll damping....If I could just get a cleaner "break" at the spin

Here's my solution.
It really wasn't that much work once I figured out how to do it. The 'mold' is made out of a plastic bottle and some scrap wood. The lay up is 4 layers of glass and one layer of carbon with epoxy and some micro balloons to make the epoxy more 'past-like'.
The result is light and very rigid. I ran a few tanks already and the engine remains rock steady. Hopefully first flight this Sunday.

Greetings,
Jock

Jock,

Great job... The only concern I would have is if there would be enough air flow over the crank.
With all the disscussion of the Webra bearing issues and keeping it cool you may want to concider making a vent at the crankcase area.
Many of us have been putting air inlets on the top part of our fuse to force air in the crank area.

Wayne G.

Where are you getting the 3 blade repitched? Contact info? Cost?

Thanks!!

Jon Lowe

Bob, what nitro % are you running in your OS's?

Cool Power 15%

Thanks for the tip Wayne, Bob also pointed that out to me. This mod is now next on my list.

Jock