arresti III instructions
10-25-2004 | 05:35 AM
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From: El Reno, OK
RE: arresti III instructions
Because they didn't update the instructions until the third run of the fixed gear version. The holes and blind nuts are already installed, the gear is pre drilled.
The thing to watch out for is the CG in the instructions. It states an incorrect measurement. On three flying versions, all with the CG at 198-200mm aft of leading edge at the fuse side, they are the most neutral. DO NOT use the CG in the instructions.
Also - firewall to spinner backplate dimension is 154mm. And the vertical line offset is not shown; scribe a vertical line on the firewall 7mm to the right of center, as you are looking at the fuselage, upright. This is important to re-center the prop on the thrustline, as the firewall is offset for right thrust. If there is a plywood "box" bolted/tack glued onto the real firewall, remove it, if you're using any of the competitive engines. Otherwise, you will not get the engine located properly. I bolt the Hyde mount right to the main firewall, NO "box" included.
Finally - check that the stab and wing tubes are "square" to the rudder hingeline (perpendicular). Mine have been off some, requiring some adjustment of the tube holes in the fuselage vertically as and where needed. It's easy; just need to verify.
The thing to watch out for is the CG in the instructions. It states an incorrect measurement. On three flying versions, all with the CG at 198-200mm aft of leading edge at the fuse side, they are the most neutral. DO NOT use the CG in the instructions.
Also - firewall to spinner backplate dimension is 154mm. And the vertical line offset is not shown; scribe a vertical line on the firewall 7mm to the right of center, as you are looking at the fuselage, upright. This is important to re-center the prop on the thrustline, as the firewall is offset for right thrust. If there is a plywood "box" bolted/tack glued onto the real firewall, remove it, if you're using any of the competitive engines. Otherwise, you will not get the engine located properly. I bolt the Hyde mount right to the main firewall, NO "box" included.
Finally - check that the stab and wing tubes are "square" to the rudder hingeline (perpendicular). Mine have been off some, requiring some adjustment of the tube holes in the fuselage vertically as and where needed. It's easy; just need to verify.
10-25-2004 | 07:35 AM
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From: singapore, SINGAPORE
RE: arresti III instructions
2 more question to ask...i am using standard servo for ele.....and when i cut off the film and put the servo in, it is standing tall... wad do i do? and i bought a YS140dingo with the YS mount...the engine is very long(horizontally) and cannot fit the arresti's mount,wad do i do? thks alot for the tons of info u provided
10-26-2004 | 12:30 AM
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From: TownsvilleQueensland, AUSTRALIA
RE: arresti III instructions
Hi Team Singapore
I would like to verify what Aerobob has said to you, especially about the C/G location.
Regarding the aft servo mount, you should look on Aerobob's website: http://www.rcaerobats.net/
I mounted both sets (aileron and elevators) on 2mm ply plates and laid them on their sides, beneath the wing/stab skins.
Can't help you with your powerplant though.
Cheers
I would like to verify what Aerobob has said to you, especially about the C/G location.
Regarding the aft servo mount, you should look on Aerobob's website: http://www.rcaerobats.net/
I mounted both sets (aileron and elevators) on 2mm ply plates and laid them on their sides, beneath the wing/stab skins.
Can't help you with your powerplant though.
Cheers
10-26-2004 | 05:57 AM
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From: TownsvilleQueensland, AUSTRALIA
RE: arresti III instructions
Hey Team Singapore
To cut or not to cut??? That is up to you!!!. I have shown you the way I constructed my flight controls. It does require some surgery to achieve. Whether it's worth the time and effort is your decision. For me, it works.
If you check out Bob Pastorello's (RC Aerobob) website, he has fitted the tail and wing servos as per the Aresti instructions, only better!
Best of luck
chunkylad
To cut or not to cut??? That is up to you!!!. I have shown you the way I constructed my flight controls. It does require some surgery to achieve. Whether it's worth the time and effort is your decision. For me, it works.
If you check out Bob Pastorello's (RC Aerobob) website, he has fitted the tail and wing servos as per the Aresti instructions, only better!
Best of luck
chunkylad
10-26-2004 | 06:07 AM
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From: El Reno, OK
RE: arresti III instructions
Thanks, chunkylad. The Arresti is improving from the factory with every run. THey have been VERY responsive to suggested changes.
Full-size servos in the tail COULD create a bit of a balance problem, as most full size are 45g or more. I chose to use the small JR digital coreless servos, 3421SA's, as they were smaller and lighter than std.
A flier of Arresti in Aruba has installed std size tail servos with no problems. Using an OS 1.40 RX, but had some rearranging to do for balancing things.
Full-size servos in the tail COULD create a bit of a balance problem, as most full size are 45g or more. I chose to use the small JR digital coreless servos, 3421SA's, as they were smaller and lighter than std.
A flier of Arresti in Aruba has installed std size tail servos with no problems. Using an OS 1.40 RX, but had some rearranging to do for balancing things.
10-28-2004 | 06:04 AM
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From: Ballina, AUSTRALIA
RE: arresti III instructions
Hey Chunkylad,
Where do you compete ? Are you making he drive down from TVL for the Coolum 1000 in November ? Come on down we need numbers to run the comp, theres a chance at winning the $1000. See www.qpfa.org.au for entry info.
Can you post some pics of your setup and more details, what engine, mount system did you use ?
Ive read Aerobobs site backwards and probably talk about it in my sleep now, but Im after OS140Rx setup pics if possible.
To save on some money/weight, not much admitadly, Im thinking of going for a pushrod/bellcrank setup for the elevator. Im also trying to decide on an engine mount, the Hyde ARIA looks and most probably is, the most impressive and easiest but the dollars
Im confused, for one thing I talk about saving money for another I talk about spending as much as is possible. I keep thinking "ah what the heck, its only money and you cant take it with you", then I think of what my wife will say when she see's the credit card bill next month.
A general question for anyone reading, is the Hyde ARIA mount going to need a stronger firewall than any other system of nose ring type mounting ? This was the one negative I got re the Hyde ARIA mount when I asked around at my last comp. Personally I dont see why it would but . . . ?
Where do you compete ? Are you making he drive down from TVL for the Coolum 1000 in November ? Come on down we need numbers to run the comp, theres a chance at winning the $1000. See www.qpfa.org.au for entry info.
Can you post some pics of your setup and more details, what engine, mount system did you use ?
Ive read Aerobobs site backwards and probably talk about it in my sleep now, but Im after OS140Rx setup pics if possible.
To save on some money/weight, not much admitadly, Im thinking of going for a pushrod/bellcrank setup for the elevator. Im also trying to decide on an engine mount, the Hyde ARIA looks and most probably is, the most impressive and easiest but the dollars
Im confused, for one thing I talk about saving money for another I talk about spending as much as is possible. I keep thinking "ah what the heck, its only money and you cant take it with you", then I think of what my wife will say when she see's the credit card bill next month.
A general question for anyone reading, is the Hyde ARIA mount going to need a stronger firewall than any other system of nose ring type mounting ? This was the one negative I got re the Hyde ARIA mount when I asked around at my last comp. Personally I dont see why it would but . . . ?
10-28-2004 | 06:15 AM
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From: El Reno, OK
RE: arresti III instructions
I would NOT do the bellcrank setup; you need the weight back there to offset things up front, particularly if you use the ARIA mount. It is heavy, 5.7oz installed, but the firewall DOES hold up okay for it. A friend is running one right now, and has no complaints that I'm aware of, because the Arresti is a thick firewall to begin with.
THe concerns about ARIA mounts come from those guys that insist on using 1/8 lite ply firewalls on "wide bodies"; they will bow and distort too easily. THe ARIA concentrates ALL of the load at the four attach points which are pretty center clustered on the firewall.
It *is* only money, but I'm really struggling with the same decision for Arresti #3 coming next week....the ARIA is just SO easy to use, it's hard to beat. But it is exorbitantly expensive, so I may have to design an aerobob solution.
THe concerns about ARIA mounts come from those guys that insist on using 1/8 lite ply firewalls on "wide bodies"; they will bow and distort too easily. THe ARIA concentrates ALL of the load at the four attach points which are pretty center clustered on the firewall.
It *is* only money, but I'm really struggling with the same decision for Arresti #3 coming next week....the ARIA is just SO easy to use, it's hard to beat. But it is exorbitantly expensive, so I may have to design an aerobob solution.
10-28-2004 | 12:57 PM
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From: Zandvoort, The Netherlands
RE: arresti III instructions
Here is the flier from Aruba
I use two mini digital servo's for the elevator Hitec HS-5245MG and as an engine I use a Webra 1.45. To balance the plane I have the receiver next to the wing tube and my battery (2300 Nimh 6V) right in front of the fuel tank.
No problem at all with balancing when u use the 2 servo's.
Regards,
Jock
I use two mini digital servo's for the elevator Hitec HS-5245MG and as an engine I use a Webra 1.45. To balance the plane I have the receiver next to the wing tube and my battery (2300 Nimh 6V) right in front of the fuel tank.
No problem at all with balancing when u use the 2 servo's.
Regards,
Jock
10-29-2004 | 07:54 AM
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From: TownsvilleQueensland, AUSTRALIA
RE: arresti III instructions
G'day Lancair
I only get the chance to compete locally (work committments I'm afraid). I did get to Coolum in August for the CAOCC event though. It's a bit of a drive, 1300km, so I am aiming to get there for 2005 for the State champs maybe.
I totally agree with Aerobob regarding the tail servos, don't go the bellcrank way. Use the mounting positions supplied. Keep it simple. I'm only running 2x JR539s on elevator, and having no probs balancing the model by moving around my 2300mAh NiMh pack. I'm using Hitec digitals on ailerons HS5245 mightyminis, and a HS5945 on rudder.
I used the engine mount supplied with the Aresti kit. I have since retro-fitted a home-grown soft mount for the two stroke. I'm of the opinion that a 1.40 two stroke does not have the same vibe damping needs as a big four stroke like say, a YS 1.40/1.60DZ. Having said that though, the G20/23 has certainly benefitted from the improved mount.
I'll show you my G2300 throttle servo mount. Sorry, but I have no pics of my new mounting system yet. If you're interested, I'll try to get some piccies organised.
cheers
chunkylad
I only get the chance to compete locally (work committments I'm afraid). I did get to Coolum in August for the CAOCC event though. It's a bit of a drive, 1300km, so I am aiming to get there for 2005 for the State champs maybe.
I totally agree with Aerobob regarding the tail servos, don't go the bellcrank way. Use the mounting positions supplied. Keep it simple. I'm only running 2x JR539s on elevator, and having no probs balancing the model by moving around my 2300mAh NiMh pack. I'm using Hitec digitals on ailerons HS5245 mightyminis, and a HS5945 on rudder.
I used the engine mount supplied with the Aresti kit. I have since retro-fitted a home-grown soft mount for the two stroke. I'm of the opinion that a 1.40 two stroke does not have the same vibe damping needs as a big four stroke like say, a YS 1.40/1.60DZ. Having said that though, the G20/23 has certainly benefitted from the improved mount.
I'll show you my G2300 throttle servo mount. Sorry, but I have no pics of my new mounting system yet. If you're interested, I'll try to get some piccies organised.
cheers
chunkylad
10-29-2004 | 07:16 PM
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From: TownsvilleQueensland, AUSTRALIA
RE: arresti III instructions
Hi Team Singapore
No can do with the pics for the Dingo.[
]
I'm running Super Tigre![8D]
I'm sure someone else can help although you may have to start a new thread to get what you want.
Chunkylad
No can do with the pics for the Dingo.[
]I'm running Super Tigre![8D]
I'm sure someone else can help although you may have to start a new thread to get what you want.
Chunkylad
11-02-2004 | 04:12 PM
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From: Ballina, AUSTRALIA
RE: arresti III instructions
Just wondering what other Arresti owners or indeed owners of similar balsa constructed aircraft have done to fuel/oil proof the pipe tunnel ? Also what about the interior near/around fuel tank, has anyone done anything in there to protect against a fuel spill. Ive not done in the past but have more invested in this model ?
The firewall comes fuel proofed but the bare balsa planking on the fuse floor/tunnel roof is unprotected. In previous models Ive just used finishing epoxy resin, but I wasnt overly concerned about weight gains. Searching through these forums Ive found numerous references to polyureathane paints used for this task.
Ideas / suggestions ?
The firewall comes fuel proofed but the bare balsa planking on the fuse floor/tunnel roof is unprotected. In previous models Ive just used finishing epoxy resin, but I wasnt overly concerned about weight gains. Searching through these forums Ive found numerous references to polyureathane paints used for this task.
Ideas / suggestions ?
11-02-2004 | 04:15 PM
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From: El Reno, OK
RE: arresti III instructions
I bought a package at an Arts and Crafts store of some "coating epoxy"; VERY thin, watery, and positively fuel/oil proof stuff; weighs nearly nothing. Coated the balsa belly pan floor with that, and it has held up very well. If you are REALLY, REALLY concerned with grams, spray hairspray on the balsa and let dry before putting on the epoxy. You will have a very well sealed and minimal epoxy base.
11-02-2004 | 07:52 PM
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From: Ballina, AUSTRALIA
RE: arresti III instructions
Thanks Bob.
Just an update on my slow progress. Wings were as square to the vert fin as I could measure (witin a mm of each other tip to top) but stab was out by 5-6mm measured from top centre of fin to each stab rear tip. Very small amount of fileing the bottom stab tube holes on the high side with a round file saw that sorted out to within a mm of each other. Just waiting on servos and engine now to go any further with assembling and gluing etc.
Just an update on my slow progress. Wings were as square to the vert fin as I could measure (witin a mm of each other tip to top) but stab was out by 5-6mm measured from top centre of fin to each stab rear tip. Very small amount of fileing the bottom stab tube holes on the high side with a round file saw that sorted out to within a mm of each other. Just waiting on servos and engine now to go any further with assembling and gluing etc.
11-03-2004 | 03:13 PM
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From: Madison,
AL
RE: arresti III instructions
They still haven't updated them. I got my Arresti yesterday, and it still has the old instructions.
Jon Lowe
Jon Lowe
ORIGINAL: aerobob
Because they didn't update the instructions until the third run of the fixed gear version. The holes and blind nuts are already installed, the gear is pre drilled.
The thing to watch out for is the CG in the instructions. It states an incorrect measurement. On three flying versions, all with the CG at 198-200mm aft of leading edge at the fuse side, they are the most neutral. DO NOT use the CG in the instructions.
Also - firewall to spinner backplate dimension is 154mm. And the vertical line offset is not shown; scribe a vertical line on the firewall 7mm to the right of center, as you are looking at the fuselage, upright. This is important to re-center the prop on the thrustline, as the firewall is offset for right thrust. If there is a plywood "box" bolted/tack glued onto the real firewall, remove it, if you're using any of the competitive engines. Otherwise, you will not get the engine located properly. I bolt the Hyde mount right to the main firewall, NO "box" included.
Finally - check that the stab and wing tubes are "square" to the rudder hingeline (perpendicular). Mine have been off some, requiring some adjustment of the tube holes in the fuselage vertically as and where needed. It's easy; just need to verify.
Because they didn't update the instructions until the third run of the fixed gear version. The holes and blind nuts are already installed, the gear is pre drilled.
The thing to watch out for is the CG in the instructions. It states an incorrect measurement. On three flying versions, all with the CG at 198-200mm aft of leading edge at the fuse side, they are the most neutral. DO NOT use the CG in the instructions.
Also - firewall to spinner backplate dimension is 154mm. And the vertical line offset is not shown; scribe a vertical line on the firewall 7mm to the right of center, as you are looking at the fuselage, upright. This is important to re-center the prop on the thrustline, as the firewall is offset for right thrust. If there is a plywood "box" bolted/tack glued onto the real firewall, remove it, if you're using any of the competitive engines. Otherwise, you will not get the engine located properly. I bolt the Hyde mount right to the main firewall, NO "box" included.
Finally - check that the stab and wing tubes are "square" to the rudder hingeline (perpendicular). Mine have been off some, requiring some adjustment of the tube holes in the fuselage vertically as and where needed. It's easy; just need to verify.
11-06-2004 | 05:47 PM
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From: Ballina, AUSTRALIA
RE: arresti III instructions
Quick question for Arresti owners.
I see Arresti III decals in pics of the model, (Aruba's and Aerobobs). Did they come with your kit or have you had them made for you ? Mine didnt come with any decals.
Below are some poor quality pics of my canopy attachment method now finished. I hated the idea of 6 screws to be fiddleing with so made a frame to support the canopy at the top of the fuse rails. I have two pins at the front of the frame locating into holes drilled in the forward ply bulkhead and one 4-40 bolt and blind nut at the top rear of the canopy to hold it in place. Its a snug fit and nothing will move or flap. Im impressed with my own ingenuity here. I made the frame on the fuse to get it a perfect fit. Smeared some vaseline at the four corners to stop it sticking and used some 5 minute epoxy to tack glue the frame into the canopy with the canopy held in exactly the right place, then removed the canopy and fame and epoxied the rest of the frame into the canopy.
I see Arresti III decals in pics of the model, (Aruba's and Aerobobs). Did they come with your kit or have you had them made for you ? Mine didnt come with any decals.
Below are some poor quality pics of my canopy attachment method now finished. I hated the idea of 6 screws to be fiddleing with so made a frame to support the canopy at the top of the fuse rails. I have two pins at the front of the frame locating into holes drilled in the forward ply bulkhead and one 4-40 bolt and blind nut at the top rear of the canopy to hold it in place. Its a snug fit and nothing will move or flap. Im impressed with my own ingenuity here. I made the frame on the fuse to get it a perfect fit. Smeared some vaseline at the four corners to stop it sticking and used some 5 minute epoxy to tack glue the frame into the canopy with the canopy held in exactly the right place, then removed the canopy and fame and epoxied the rest of the frame into the canopy.
11-06-2004 | 05:58 PM
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From: Ballina, AUSTRALIA
RE: arresti III instructions
Here is a pic of my modified wing attachment method. The supplied single threaded anti rotation pin and nut method seemed dodgy to me, only holding at the front of the wing. It also interferred with installing wing adjusters.
Using the hole for the servo wires for access I glued in a length of ply, (actually 2 x 3mm laminated together to make one 6mm thick piece) for support to the root rib and simply drilled through the root rib into the ply and screwed in (with thick CA), a 25mm x 3mm eyebolt. Made a slot in the fuse side and will hold the wings together with either a nylon zip tie or a heavy spring if I can get one the right size.
Using the hole for the servo wires for access I glued in a length of ply, (actually 2 x 3mm laminated together to make one 6mm thick piece) for support to the root rib and simply drilled through the root rib into the ply and screwed in (with thick CA), a 25mm x 3mm eyebolt. Made a slot in the fuse side and will hold the wings together with either a nylon zip tie or a heavy spring if I can get one the right size.
11-07-2004 | 06:59 AM
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From: El Reno, OK
RE: arresti III instructions
This is exactly how I do mine!!! GREAT minds think alike on this stuff!! Except I use a short piece of 10mm dowel, epoxy into the root rib, flush, drill and install the eyehook screw, ca, done. I use the nylon tie wrap to connect them inside the fuse, also. Very solid.
The "decals" are vinyl lettering I get in the US from a guy who makes all of my letters; the various stickers come from the places I buy stuff, Boca Bearing, OS engine, JR Radio, KMP includes their logo sticker. Flags can be gotten about anyplace.
Great frame idea for the canopy. I may have to copy that!
Visit our yahoo email group on Arresti.... [email protected] ....anyone is welcome!
The "decals" are vinyl lettering I get in the US from a guy who makes all of my letters; the various stickers come from the places I buy stuff, Boca Bearing, OS engine, JR Radio, KMP includes their logo sticker. Flags can be gotten about anyplace.
Great frame idea for the canopy. I may have to copy that!
Visit our yahoo email group on Arresti.... [email protected] ....anyone is welcome!
11-08-2004 | 08:02 AM
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From: TownsvilleQueensland, AUSTRALIA
RE: arresti III instructions
HI Lancair
That wing retaining method is just what the doctor ordered! I have rebuilt both wing tubes following a failure, and now I have a small gap at the trailing edge, which would benefit from your eyebolt solution. Thanks mate.
Btw, you should visit the Yahoo Newsgroup as mentioned by Aerobob.
Cheers
Chunkylad
That wing retaining method is just what the doctor ordered! I have rebuilt both wing tubes following a failure, and now I have a small gap at the trailing edge, which would benefit from your eyebolt solution. Thanks mate.
Btw, you should visit the Yahoo Newsgroup as mentioned by Aerobob.
Cheers
Chunkylad
11-08-2004 | 10:20 AM
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From: Owasso,
OK
RE: arresti III instructions
Hi Lancair,
Good solution on the canopy.... I'd be interested to see your fuel tank installation when you can send pics of that. I'm using the 6 screws , but may retrofit. (Hey, even that is great compared to access to the Prophecy I'd been flying Thanks for posting.
Chris White
Good solution on the canopy.... I'd be interested to see your fuel tank installation when you can send pics of that. I'm using the 6 screws , but may retrofit. (Hey, even that is great compared to access to the Prophecy I'd been flying
Thanks for posting.Chris White
