Hi All
I need recommendations for prop for the YS 160 DZ
Thanks
Isaac Najary, Israel

As with ALL YS motors run it in the right RPM range I like 8300-8700 on the 140-160's. This is where they make the best power.

I use the 17-12 std APC on Cool Power 30% and the motor will turn up at 8700-8800 and have excellent results. I have one that has well over 500-600 runs and all that has been done is new ring at about 300 flights and it just got a new rebuild...Piston-ring and liner. Cam and bearings were all great so I didn't change them.

I have another motor that is approaching about 150-200 flights. Its running the same.

If you choose less nitro then downsize the prop. Other choices I have run:

all of these are APC
17-12W
18-10PN
17-13
16.5-13W
15.75-13 3B
15-13W 3B
15.5-12 4B


Key is to keep the RPMs in the right range...This will keep the motor happy and not work it so hard.

Hey Troy do you know why they added the check valve to the 160 DZ

Where is the check Valve located?

There are a couple of options where some guys have used check valves. I use one on my vent line to provide more consistent fuel delivery and keep fuel from draining out the vent line when the model is nose down.

There have also been guys that have installed a check valve in the feed line from the tank. They say the same thing...Helps give more consistent fuel delivery. I have never done this and don't feel its needed.

I also know that some guys have installed a check valve in the feed line from the needle valve up to the injector. Again same idea. I have not found this to be an issue either.

The fuel system on this motor is identical to that of the 140DZ

Troy

OK troy look at where the glow plug location is and the black check valve, is what I am assuming it's called.

Yes Yes,

This is the low pressure check valve that helps the motor at low idle for a long period. Example is after a spin...sometimes if you jump on it too hard the motor can burp. This is only on really long idle times. Like in a spin. You will never see it on downlines or typical idle conditions.

This little item is suppose to stop this. I spoke to Tesuo Yamada at the NATS this year about it. I have not used one yet, BUT will try it out and let you know.

Troy

Would you still plum it with a check valve on the vent line, even with this check vavle their?

Yes I would still use my same tank setup. The main reason to use the check valve on the vent line is to keep fuel from flowing out of the model while nose down...This includes carrying it to and from the flight line as well as vertical lines. Fuel will flow out of the open vent line and will make a mess on the model. Also it can eat the paint from the side of the model.

I have even played with a header tank and it works well also. The header tank is you can stand the extra weight actually will eliminate any burps when the tank gets to around 25% full. With this header tank (2oz) it is possible to run the tank about 95% dry before it burps. If it burps then its out of fuel.

I have also found it helpful to not run the motor dry in the air. This lean run condition will cause problems with the motor wearing out parts prematurely. I'm not always faithful with this but if you have problems maybe you should not push the limits. Running out of fuel in the air is a LEAN run.

Below is my normal tank system.

Troy, my 160 looks exactly like the pitcure that I posted, even with the check black valve.