Glow Plug Setup for starting
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Glow Plug Setup for starting
Hello,
I was just wondering what set-ups you guys are using to start your glow plugs?
I find I cannot get a good setup, especially when starting the model on its wheels. The 2 volt keeps falling off!!!!!!
I would be interested in hearing some of your clever ideas?
thanks.............
I was just wondering what set-ups you guys are using to start your glow plugs?
I find I cannot get a good setup, especially when starting the model on its wheels. The 2 volt keeps falling off!!!!!!
I would be interested in hearing some of your clever ideas?
thanks.............
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RE: Glow Plug Setup for starting
I use the radio south mk 11 and mk 111. The mk 11 is set up for a MKD Remote Glow Plug Connector and Harness from central hobbies.
The mk 111 set up I have problems with. It has a glow plug end that is attacthed with an rca type end. Convenient for changing the end but it falls off of my inverted YS. I'm gonna try putting heatshrink tubing on it. The mk 11 has no problems using it with the remote glow setup...
Chris
The mk 111 set up I have problems with. It has a glow plug end that is attacthed with an rca type end. Convenient for changing the end but it falls off of my inverted YS. I'm gonna try putting heatshrink tubing on it. The mk 11 has no problems using it with the remote glow setup...
Chris
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RE: Glow Plug Setup for starting
I must be on a roll, 2 posts in one night. I use a Radio South glow driver retrofitted with a Sullivan stainless steel head. This has worked very good for me. It sounds like the ultimate glow driver if you are using it for a YSDZ would be a delay type which they produce in Japan. I believe that they call it the non-knocking glow driver as it gives a soft start to the Dz's.
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RE: Glow Plug Setup for starting
I use a home made one, just a 3Ah NiCd in series with an ammeter to the glow plug. The latest one uses 2 completely separate 1.2v cells, with a 3 position switch to select which cell to use. ie. Batt 1 - Off - Batt 2. This way there is almost no chance that both batteries will be flat on the starting line! The ammeter really lets you know what's going on when starting the DZ.
I haven't really had a problem without the delay... just check the meter, if it's high, activate the kill switch and start to clear out the excess fuel, then start normally.
We also use the TY1 glow clip, which is a push-on and turn type. It's the only one that lasts... without a remote glow.
I haven't really had a problem without the delay... just check the meter, if it's high, activate the kill switch and start to clear out the excess fuel, then start normally.
We also use the TY1 glow clip, which is a push-on and turn type. It's the only one that lasts... without a remote glow.
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RE: Glow Plug Setup for starting
Brian, try this website: www2.hobbynet-jp.com
While this is not the model that I had seen previously it appears as though there are others producing this type of unit.
Take care,
Tim
While this is not the model that I had seen previously it appears as though there are others producing this type of unit.
Take care,
Tim
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RE: Glow Plug Setup for starting
Hi,
One of our pattern flyers in Brisbane builds a box with 12 nicads. This powers the starter and the glow plug. A board senses when the starter is turning, and only energizes the plug when its turning over. This gives a soft-start to the YS's that can backfire otherwise. A meter is invaluable to see if the plug is flooded or burnt out.
I use the TY1 clip and find it the best. Simple and a positive, easy to release lock
Steve
One of our pattern flyers in Brisbane builds a box with 12 nicads. This powers the starter and the glow plug. A board senses when the starter is turning, and only energizes the plug when its turning over. This gives a soft-start to the YS's that can backfire otherwise. A meter is invaluable to see if the plug is flooded or burnt out.
I use the TY1 clip and find it the best. Simple and a positive, easy to release lock
Steve