papadontscreech

Any ideas the cleanest way to mount clear canopy, can't track down pin striping and any glues I can think of will look terrible through clear canopy,

thank

jetmech43

My Feedback: (9)

I used screws to attach the canopy on my Focus

maustin

My Feedback: (7)

I glued my canopy on a Focus 2 with RC 56 glue. Dries clear, flexible and easy clean up. It has survived several bounces off the ground when wind blew it off during cleanup.

BBM [8D]

MikeEast

My Feedback: (3)

I used CA on the canopy I just did and it worked beautifully. But you have to be super careful to keep the fumes away from anything that will show. I tacked mine along the edge 1 tiny drop at a time, holding the canpoy tightly against the balsa and letting it wick in from the outside, constantly blowing the fumes away. I actually had a little fan setup to keep the air moving fast inside of the canopy. I started out on the extremeties and worked my way closer and closer, 1 tiny drop at a time until I had a drop about every 1/8" all the way around. Then I cut 1/2" wide strips of the ultracote I used and ironed it half on the canopy and half on the hatch to finish the edge.

I actually covered the hatch before I installed the canopy, and then cut a 1/8" strip of the covering away right along the edge where the canopy and hatch meet up all the way around the hatch. Actually, along the very front on top, I only cut away the thickess of the canopy so that bare wood would not show. I did this so that I could glue the hatch directly to the balsa and not the the ultracote. It came out very clean and seems to be there for good. No indications that it will ever come loose.

I know its a big plane, but the same principles apply.

Look here on page 2 of my building thread to see how I started and how it came out.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_42...mpage_2/tm.htm

Gringo Flyer

My Feedback: (18)

The canopy glue works great it completely disappears. Its a little thin and I like to put it on with a q tip to get it on even and not too thick.

MikeEast

My Feedback: (3)

I read a trick for the R56. Chill and thicken it before applying. Either put it in the refrigerator or freezer and let it get thick then immediately apply. By the time it thins down its already starting to set a little.

Thats just what I read, I have never tried it.

A comment on using screws. If you do be sure that you screw into either a very dense balsa or light ply because unless youa re flying electric, the vibration will almost immediately wallow out the holes. Even hardening the holes with CA did not work for me.

Capt Jim

My Feedback: (168)

I used those tiny little "micro" sized screws available at hobby shops that cater to trains. They are like the little screws that hold eyeglasses together. The heads are so tiny, they look kinda scale-like an a big plane. Also, no messy glue to deal with...very clean installation...and also it enables you to remove the canopy at any time and replace it quickly and easily. Be advised that these tiny screws are expensive. My LHS gets $2 for a bag of 5 screws! But what's your option...they dont sell these tiny things at Home Depot. As was mentioned earlier, be sure to get them into hard wood...soft balsa will wear away with normal vibration....and use a lot of them to be strong and look scale.
P.S. I drilled pilot holes for the screws with a number 59 drill bit in a dremel tool....very fast and easy.

bla bla

Screws eventually cause the canopy to crack.
The classic Canopy Glue (zap or similar) works just so damned well it hardly seems a topic for discussion anymore.

papadontscreech

Hi thanks for suggestions, assuming I use ZAP, how thick do I put it on,can anyone talk me through as its a 1 shot thing!

Thanks

Capt Jim

My Feedback: (168)

I agree that canopy glue does it's job, but it is forever. So you can forget about getting back inside to add scale details, etc. As for the canopy cracking, well I guess it depends upon the canopy material, the installation, and the abuse it becomes subjected to.
My own experience has been quite good with screws, in sufficient number, and properly installed. I'm not opposing the use of the clear drying glue, but rather presenting another option.

bla bla

You can't really go wrong.
Just put a thin bead of glue around the canopy and tape it securely inplace.
It looks awfull at first as the glue is white but after it's dried it's completely invisable.
By the way it takes hours to dry so there isn't a stress involved... plus the fact that if you F-up, just was it away and start again.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Here is an example of Pacer 560 on MonoKote.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Here is an example of fiberglass cloth and epoxy glue on a painted fuselage.

Derek.Koopowitz

I used white electrical tape to hold my canopy on my Focus - I flew it for 2+ years and never replaced the tape, nor did I have to fix the edges. Clean and simple to do... see attached pic. BTW, I attached the canopy on my 35% Staudacher using the same tape and the canopy is still attached.

papadontscreech

Well I will be gluing to painted fuzz(artf) , cant access canopy glue in a hurry, so with ZAP and/or epoxy has anybody tried this?

Thanks

Rocketman_

Lately I have been using Fletch -Tite. That's the stuff used by archers and arrow builders for bonding feathers and plastic vanes to aluminum, fiberglass, carbon fiber or wood arrows. The company's name is The Bohning Company, Ltd. Buy it at Walmart or sporting goods stores.

Take a look at this RCU thread, "Canopy Glue?" http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_36...tm.htm#3708239

I wish someone would try this glue http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXCX65&P=M and this glue http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCX69 and tell me about it.

Jim Clausen

I use a strip of Monkcote about 1/4 inch wide. I use a low temperature and slowly attach the Monokote using a trim monokoting iron. It works well as long as you do not get it real hot, otherwise the canopy melts and distorts.
Jim Clausen