How long does a YS 160 DZ engine last?
#2
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From: Blackfoot ,
ID
I would say that question belongs in the same catagory as how long is a piece of string .Theres way to many factors involved to make any rash statments as far as longivity goes .
I would ask Dave Shadel in the YS Engine Forum,i'm sure he can give you the info your wanting .
I would ask Dave Shadel in the YS Engine Forum,i'm sure he can give you the info your wanting .
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From: Oslo, NORWAY
ORIGINAL: grcourtney
14 cases of fuel before mine took a dump
gary
14 cases of fuel before mine took a dump
gary
I did a little gyno' on it last year and replaced a the bearing and ring... i was board.
It's been a brilliant motor, just wish you could get that stability in todays power house.
#6
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From: huntsville,
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Just flying and working Ryan still trying to beat Jon in a local contest but fuel burned and skill gained are still not proportional!!
Bla Bla your right I do need to fly more I just got this 160 DZ in Jan 06. and can just barley get to the field 13 or 14 days a month.
gary
Bla Bla your right I do need to fly more I just got this 160 DZ in Jan 06. and can just barley get to the field 13 or 14 days a month.
gary
#7
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They can last as long as you take care of them. I have my original 160DZ test engine from November 2003 and it has 3 seasons and well over 800 flights on it. During that time it has gotten new gaskets, o-rings and piston ring about every 250-300 flights depending how its performing.
Its still on original bearings! Next rebuild in about 50-100 flights will get a new con-rod for good measure and bearings. Perhaps evena new cam. But this is 3 years of flying and the engine has been awesome.
So they will last a long time if you take care of them.
To ask how long they will last is very dependant on how you treat them. Run it until it won't run anymore and you have a heavy repair bill when something fails. But keep an eye on the parts and see if anything is getting loose of sloppy like con-rods, or perhaps the cam gear can get worn. Then the repairs are very easy and cheap.
I rebuild (piston ring and seals) when I notice the power drop off a couple hundred rpm. This is usually about 250-300 flights.
Run them lean and under high loads and it might get you 50 flights. I don't do anything special other than I lube them up before I run them the first time. I put oil in the cam gear area and pour some oil in the carb to lube the bottom end. That's it. I have 3 160's and two of them are production engines right out the same box as any other motor from Central Hobbies. My test engine was the first one I had it has most flights and time. I got a new 160 this past spring and it is only about 200 flights old same story its still running great. I also have a 170 test engine that is about 200 flights old and its been excellent also.
Troy Newman
YS Performance
Its still on original bearings! Next rebuild in about 50-100 flights will get a new con-rod for good measure and bearings. Perhaps evena new cam. But this is 3 years of flying and the engine has been awesome.
So they will last a long time if you take care of them.
To ask how long they will last is very dependant on how you treat them. Run it until it won't run anymore and you have a heavy repair bill when something fails. But keep an eye on the parts and see if anything is getting loose of sloppy like con-rods, or perhaps the cam gear can get worn. Then the repairs are very easy and cheap.
I rebuild (piston ring and seals) when I notice the power drop off a couple hundred rpm. This is usually about 250-300 flights.
Run them lean and under high loads and it might get you 50 flights. I don't do anything special other than I lube them up before I run them the first time. I put oil in the cam gear area and pour some oil in the carb to lube the bottom end. That's it. I have 3 160's and two of them are production engines right out the same box as any other motor from Central Hobbies. My test engine was the first one I had it has most flights and time. I got a new 160 this past spring and it is only about 200 flights old same story its still running great. I also have a 170 test engine that is about 200 flights old and its been excellent also.
Troy Newman
YS Performance
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From: huntsville,
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my engine had a cracked piston and broken crank ring, how the crank ring broke is still unknown, but i feel the key to longevity to this motor is once it is set don't play with the needle. but after the engine was rebuilt I had a e-clip break and I bent a push rod anything else that I have had to replace since was of my own stupidity!!!!!!!!!!! great motor looking forward to the release of the 170.
gary
gary
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From: Somerset, , UNITED KINGDOM
Hello,
I must be just unlucky, my 140L as only lasted 4 and a 1/2 gallons and lost the camgear.
The people who repaired it said, "these things sometimes happen with an L" .
That is a total cost for the engine of £720 (engine,mount pipe,header,air fliter and headersupport) for 4 and a 1/2 gallons of flying and there is nothing to say it will last any longer next time !
I'm out of here, I'll get it back and e bay it.
I have to say that running a YS has been an expensive, not to be repeated experiance.
I have to admit it is a fantastic piece of machinery, but maybe a bit too complex for its own good.
Now looking for a good small petrol engine.
Rodders
I must be just unlucky, my 140L as only lasted 4 and a 1/2 gallons and lost the camgear.
The people who repaired it said, "these things sometimes happen with an L" .
That is a total cost for the engine of £720 (engine,mount pipe,header,air fliter and headersupport) for 4 and a 1/2 gallons of flying and there is nothing to say it will last any longer next time !
I'm out of here, I'll get it back and e bay it.
I have to say that running a YS has been an expensive, not to be repeated experiance.
I have to admit it is a fantastic piece of machinery, but maybe a bit too complex for its own good.
Now looking for a good small petrol engine.
Rodders
#11
Senior Member
Rodders,
I have found that cam gear damage can occur on the first run. It might not fail for 50 flights but it gets damaged on the first run.
I open the cam gear cover up and put oil directly in there. This makes sure its got good lube the first time it turn over. I learned this little technique back when I was running 140FZ's and 140L's. Since doing it I have not had a problem with a cam gear.
Also stick some oil in the carb to lube the bottom end a bit for the first run also. I use the Ultra Oil Perf Spec sells or just plain old Mobile 1 Synth oil.
Another thing with the 140 L is if you run it it lean it can backfire pretty hard. This can also be running it out of fuel while in the air. That is a lean run. The backfire will put large loads on the cam gear. A bent spinner, or slipped backplate is a sign of it going lean in the air.
I stand by what I have said about props and running the motors where they are designed to run. All the 140's and 160 run best in the mid 8500 range. A 140L works good on a 15-12 or 15-12W with 20-30% nitro. The heli fuels like the Cool Power 30% heli is awesome and you can probably get away witha 16-11 or so on a 140L maybe a really strong one will turn the 16-12 at about 8400 and will work. The more you load the engine down the more it heats up and is likely to talk back when it runs out of fuel or has a problem. Run them at a few hundred rpm higher and they breathe better and stay cool, and are likely stay running for years and years.
Troy Newman
YS Performance
I have found that cam gear damage can occur on the first run. It might not fail for 50 flights but it gets damaged on the first run.
I open the cam gear cover up and put oil directly in there. This makes sure its got good lube the first time it turn over. I learned this little technique back when I was running 140FZ's and 140L's. Since doing it I have not had a problem with a cam gear.
Also stick some oil in the carb to lube the bottom end a bit for the first run also. I use the Ultra Oil Perf Spec sells or just plain old Mobile 1 Synth oil.
Another thing with the 140 L is if you run it it lean it can backfire pretty hard. This can also be running it out of fuel while in the air. That is a lean run. The backfire will put large loads on the cam gear. A bent spinner, or slipped backplate is a sign of it going lean in the air.
I stand by what I have said about props and running the motors where they are designed to run. All the 140's and 160 run best in the mid 8500 range. A 140L works good on a 15-12 or 15-12W with 20-30% nitro. The heli fuels like the Cool Power 30% heli is awesome and you can probably get away witha 16-11 or so on a 140L maybe a really strong one will turn the 16-12 at about 8400 and will work. The more you load the engine down the more it heats up and is likely to talk back when it runs out of fuel or has a problem. Run them at a few hundred rpm higher and they breathe better and stay cool, and are likely stay running for years and years.
Troy Newman
YS Performance
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From: Quito, ECUADOR
Troy Newman
I know that morgan fuel Cool Power Heli is the best but what do you think about Byron Fuel Heli 30% nitro 24% oil For YS 160 DZ? It is good for the engine?
Pablo Kuri
I know that morgan fuel Cool Power Heli is the best but what do you think about Byron Fuel Heli 30% nitro 24% oil For YS 160 DZ? It is good for the engine?
Pablo Kuri





