YS 160 / 170DZ
#1
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From: West Australia,
DC, AUSTRALIA
Please feel free to express your thoughts on these engines for F3A, and feel free to incude what setups in terms of propellors and pipes you might be running. It seems these guys are the wepon of choice for competitive Pattern flying
Happy flying & straight lines!
Happy flying & straight lines!
#4
Hi,
The DZ are perfect for pattern , it has the throttel-management what we looking for in pattern ...
Besides, like the pictures shows ; i have my own modifications + enjoy looking after the "jewel" now and then
.
Now the lucky owner of the 160DZ is my Integral, running flawlessly with 16,5X12W , hattori-exhaust, CP-30, hyde 140 ARA ...
Kjell Olav
The DZ are perfect for pattern , it has the throttel-management what we looking for in pattern ...
Besides, like the pictures shows ; i have my own modifications + enjoy looking after the "jewel" now and then
.Now the lucky owner of the 160DZ is my Integral, running flawlessly with 16,5X12W , hattori-exhaust, CP-30, hyde 140 ARA ...
Kjell Olav
#5
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From: Sandy,
UT
ORIGINAL: byoung466
18.1x10 apc prop, hatori short pipe and header, or the escomposites pipe are good. 30% heli or LS coolpower.
18.1x10 apc prop, hatori short pipe and header, or the escomposites pipe are good. 30% heli or LS coolpower.
Can you give a ballpark rpm figure for the 18.1x10?
thanks
#6

My Feedback: (45)
I'm running the hatori header and short pipe with Cool Power 30%. Around 8000 is a good RPM. Anything about 8200 or so wont make the noise requirements. I've seen some guys getting 8300-8400 with this setup. Mine peaked out at about 8200, but I'm running it now about 7900 and no power problems for the AMA Masters sequence, and I've flown all the way up to F-11 with my 10lb 8 oz plane and flown in some crazy heat here in SW Texas...
Arch
Arch
#7
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From: PR,
KS
ORIGINAL: ROGUE ROVER
Please feel free to express your thoughts on these engines for F3A, and feel free to incude what setups in terms of propellors and pipes you might be running. It seems these guys are the wepon of choice for competitive Pattern flying
Happy flying & straight lines!
Please feel free to express your thoughts on these engines for F3A, and feel free to incude what setups in terms of propellors and pipes you might be running. It seems these guys are the wepon of choice for competitive Pattern flying
Happy flying & straight lines!
Clay
#8

My Feedback: (45)
This isnt true with the DZ series. I was a two stroke guy for years. I switched the DZ last year and couldnt be happier. I'm running the same motor I flew at the beginning of last year. Well over 700 flights, and have just adjusted the valves. The motor still starts and runs, just like it did a year ago. This thing is every bit as easy to deal with as my OS 1.40RX was, if not even better. I have zero complaints with my DZ's since I got them. I know several other guys that have had exactly the same experience I have with this motor...Mike Hester being one of them. These are great motors.
Arch
Arch
#9
My 120AC only needed a piston and ring change after ten years, and it runs like new, the 160 is the most powerfull engine I have ever own, its so impresive that any other engine look underpowered, the 170 has 8% more power and runs a little better in hot conditions 100deg+
#10
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The 1.60DZ is the absolute best motor I have ever run, bar none. I, too, am a YS convert, having flown an OS 1.40RX for several years, and Webra before that. Everything pales in comparison to this motor, IMO. I'd love to get my mitts on a 1.70DZ, I guess that's for next year.
As far as setup, I'm running an Asano header and pipe, 30% Morgan Coolpower, and an APC 18.1x10. I want to try some other props this fall and see how they do, more specifically a 15x11 4-blade, and maybe a 17x12. The 18.1x10 is an awesome prop, but you have to be careful that you don't slow down too much. Very rarely do I ever bring the throttle down to idle on a downline as the prop brakes too much and will slow down.
As far as setup, I'm running an Asano header and pipe, 30% Morgan Coolpower, and an APC 18.1x10. I want to try some other props this fall and see how they do, more specifically a 15x11 4-blade, and maybe a 17x12. The 18.1x10 is an awesome prop, but you have to be careful that you don't slow down too much. Very rarely do I ever bring the throttle down to idle on a downline as the prop brakes too much and will slow down.
#11
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From: Oslo, NORWAY
ORIGINAL: 67685
Hi,
The DZ are perfect for pattern , it has the throttel-management what we looking for in pattern ...
Besides, like the pictures shows ; i have my own modifications + enjoy looking after the "jewel" now and then
.
Now the lucky owner of the 160DZ is my Integral, running flawlessly with 16,5X12W , hattori-exhaust, CP-30, hyde 140 ARA ...
Kjell Olav
Hi,
The DZ are perfect for pattern , it has the throttel-management what we looking for in pattern ...
Besides, like the pictures shows ; i have my own modifications + enjoy looking after the "jewel" now and then
.Now the lucky owner of the 160DZ is my Integral, running flawlessly with 16,5X12W , hattori-exhaust, CP-30, hyde 140 ARA ...
Kjell Olav
#12
Hi Bla Bla,
... It all started when i got an DZ that would not run properly ... I guess i was unlucky, picking the wrong "YS-lottery- ticket". Besides, i do not even win in a "Cake-lottery", so i was not suprised ...
So, after some testing and research, i found that the Throttel barrel was leaking from the fuel metering-groove straight into the air-intake manifold. In addition, the barrel had leakage from the high press air side to the suction side ...
These parts ( throttel housing/barrel) seems to be critical about tolerances and temperature stability, so i decided to add two additional o-rings to the barrel.
In the Picture you can see the two red o-rings installed. (originally; only the black seal is installed from YS).
Hope this help ..
Kjell Olav
... It all started when i got an DZ that would not run properly ... I guess i was unlucky, picking the wrong "YS-lottery- ticket". Besides, i do not even win in a "Cake-lottery", so i was not suprised ...
So, after some testing and research, i found that the Throttel barrel was leaking from the fuel metering-groove straight into the air-intake manifold. In addition, the barrel had leakage from the high press air side to the suction side ...
These parts ( throttel housing/barrel) seems to be critical about tolerances and temperature stability, so i decided to add two additional o-rings to the barrel.
In the Picture you can see the two red o-rings installed. (originally; only the black seal is installed from YS).
Hope this help ..
Kjell Olav
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allenpl (01-28-2021)
#13
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From: suburb of chicago,
IL
Kjell, that was a very clever fix you came up with! Congratulations on figuring out what the problem was... Most of us would've given up in frustration!
#15

My Feedback: (6)
Mark,
The MFG's intended purpose is to minimize the visual effect of the exhaust trail by passing the exhaust thru a an exit consisting of approximately 25 small holes vs the traditional single hole.. This works to some degree. The welcome side benefits are placing the exhaust exit further from the air frame in cleaner air flow resulting in less swirling especially during rolls. In addition the diffuser reduces exhaust exit noise by at least 1 DB.
Sorry I have no close up photo at this time.
The MFG's intended purpose is to minimize the visual effect of the exhaust trail by passing the exhaust thru a an exit consisting of approximately 25 small holes vs the traditional single hole.. This works to some degree. The welcome side benefits are placing the exhaust exit further from the air frame in cleaner air flow resulting in less swirling especially during rolls. In addition the diffuser reduces exhaust exit noise by at least 1 DB.
Sorry I have no close up photo at this time.
#18

My Feedback: (45)
I don't think a little RPM loss is a bad thing with these motors. With the 18.1X10 prop, you can't run it about 8100 and make the noise requirements. I have mine dialed back to about 7950 or 8000, and have NO power problems. The DZ's have so much power that there are very few times if at all you really need full power. There are certain weather conditions, but I have yet to find one that I was wishing for more power from the motor.
Arch
Arch
#19

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From: Issaquah,
WA
My DZ experience;
YS 160 DZ - 4 blade, short Hatori pipe, 30% Magnum Fuel, 7800 rpm
YS 170 DZ - 2 blade 18.1x10, short Hatori pipe, 30% Magnum Fuel, 8100 rpm
In 2007 tried couple 2 stroke engines, Webra 160, Mintor to make my models lighter. In the middle of season went back to YS. Very reliable. Noting can match it.
YS 160 DZ - 4 blade, short Hatori pipe, 30% Magnum Fuel, 7800 rpm
YS 170 DZ - 2 blade 18.1x10, short Hatori pipe, 30% Magnum Fuel, 8100 rpm
In 2007 tried couple 2 stroke engines, Webra 160, Mintor to make my models lighter. In the middle of season went back to YS. Very reliable. Noting can match it.
#20
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From: huntsville,
AL
I ran 44+ gal. (cool power heli. 30 percent) of fuel through my dz 160 before a ring and piston replacement was required. My prop of choice is a bolly 18x12 cut down to 17.5x12 rounded tips, insane verticle and it slows in the down line because the prop is wider than the standard bolly 17.5x12. Noise is an issue but I have been playing with the tip shape to get better results. 8000 rpms in most weather conditions seem to be the norm. Hatori short pipe and header. hyde ar70
gary
gary
#21

My Feedback: (18)
I am very proud to say I have the following set up goign into my BM V.3
YS 160 DZ
Hatori short pipe
A big prop.
Can't comment on performance yet as I have never run the DZ, but I am excited as hell and like to sit and stare at the engine sometime while my glue joints are drying.
Anthony
YS 160 DZ
Hatori short pipe
A big prop.
Can't comment on performance yet as I have never run the DZ, but I am excited as hell and like to sit and stare at the engine sometime while my glue joints are drying.
Anthony
#22

My Feedback: (45)
Anthony,
Trust me on this setup...on the VF3, run the short pipe with the 18.1 X 10 prop...the 18.1 X 11 is SWEET on the 1.70, but a little much for the 1.60. The braking is exceptional, and the pull is even better. Mike and I both really like that setup on the VF3. If you had a 1.70, I'd so go with the 11...it is a LITTLE faster, which will be nice on a really windy day. I've been thrilled with my 1.70. It is every bit as smooth as the 1.60, and just a little more power. Very happy so far with a handful of flights on it. 70's and sunny this weekend down here so I'll be flying some more....
Arch
Trust me on this setup...on the VF3, run the short pipe with the 18.1 X 10 prop...the 18.1 X 11 is SWEET on the 1.70, but a little much for the 1.60. The braking is exceptional, and the pull is even better. Mike and I both really like that setup on the VF3. If you had a 1.70, I'd so go with the 11...it is a LITTLE faster, which will be nice on a really windy day. I've been thrilled with my 1.70. It is every bit as smooth as the 1.60, and just a little more power. Very happy so far with a handful of flights on it. 70's and sunny this weekend down here so I'll be flying some more....
Arch



