I'm looking for a good soft mount for YS-160 DZ. The Hyde is known for its quality but also for its high price tag. Hyde is not the only one in the market (Budd Engineering to name one) some with much lower price tag (as much as half of the Hyde).
Does anyone have a comparison data that can make my decision process easier?

Yoav

I have been using a Budd for almost a year - about 3 flights a week - on a OS160. Works great.
Billy

You can't really expect to have the same performance from a mount on a YS DZ engine as a 2-stroke OS. From what I've seen the Hyde Mounts are second to none in terms of quality and durability. I have a Hyde mount on my 140 DZ and I'm very happy with it. I also know some people who really like the YS mounts. I've never used a Budd mount before, but I also don't know anyone using one either. I'd recommend you try and find someone who has had success with it on a DZ engine before going ahead and writing off the more expensive mounts. I know with the Hyde mounts you definitely get what you pay for, and Merle is very fast with repairs, both in and out of warranty.

There really is no substitute for a good Hyde mount. It really is worth the money. you won't hear many negative comments except the price tags. But when you consider the cost of rebuilding just one set of servos, it's definitely worth it.

A couple of really good ones that are not that expensive are the new AR80 and AR70 mounts. They cost about $130 each. The 80 is a VERY soft mount, don't use it if you don't have adequate chin cowl clearance....or unless you can prevent the engine from kicking. if it kicks once and you have a narrow chin (like an Integral for example), say goodbye to your chin cowl. For these type planes the AR70 is a much better mount. Still softer than the standard ARs, but it doesn't move quite as much.

I have heard a lot of good things about the YS mounts, but nobody around here uses them so I can't say much beyond that.

The Budd mount....well I applaud Jerry for his efforts. I do not trust them personally, for a DZ. They are probably just fine for a 2 stroke. But just like anything else, some people have a lot of good experience with them as well, and some won't touch them with a 10' pole. I just held one in my hand and said "no", but that was simply a judgement call on my part, and I have absolutely nothing except impression and my personal opinion to back it up. I put a lot of flights on my planes in a short period of time and need something that I am pretty certain will stand up to the torture.

What I'd like to hear is from someone who puts in at least 20 flights a week on a YS DZ and has both a Budd and a Hyde installation and is able to compare them objectively over a long period of time. Preferrably in the same airframe. I'd like to hear about servo wear, linkages, possible fatigue cracks, attach points etc.

-Mike

Hi any 1[8D]
hoo now where i can bay some new motor nylon stands , only the stands,,fore my Zn line / hyde mount
the holes do not work any more

http://www.znline.com/produits.php?l...ata=1039620004
regards Torben

Oh and for what it's worth, we're currently working on a new mount that will really raise the bar if it works out. I'll be sure and post pics and details after some prototyping and testing. You guys are gonna love this [8D]

-Mike

Are the beams on the Hyde mount pre drilled and tapped?

Have you got a link to the hyde site?

Cheers

Hyde does not have a web site. His email is [email protected]

The AR70-80 series come predrilled and tapped for every engine. They are universal with a firewall to spinner distance of 6 3/8". They do require the use of a nose ring mounted to the plane.

-Mike

I have used this soft mount to my YS 160 DZ and it is working good.

/Kristian

Mike

I need to order a mount for a YS160/170 (whenever I get one) to be installed in an Integral. Is there anything better about the new AR70s compared to the old ARA70s. I think the ARAs are lighter than the new ARs and are a bit cheaper. Has your testing shown that the new ARs are better?

Any assistance is appreaciated.

Colin

The new ARxxs are SIGNIFICANTLY better. Battery capacity drain is about half of the older ARs.

One problem: You need a much stiffer mount for that Integral. You have zero clearance for that DZ in that plane, and if it kicks ONCE, kiss your chin cowl bye-bye. I know this for a fact: the chin cowl on the one I have is shredded. Luckily I have a replacement.

Trouble is for that Integral the tolerance is so close, pretty much whatever mount you use, if the engine kicks, you've had it. Solution? Use a anti-knock glow starter like the one Derek K seels and don't ever let it kick....or have a spare chin on hand.

-M

If I may...
Last time I asked Derek about the glow drivers he didn't have a source.
I have had great luck with one of these:
http://rcatsystems.com/electronics/ligd.php
An additional benefit is RCATS is a K-Factor advertiser!
If you ask Michael at RCATS for a delay he will put one in for an additional $5.
I used mine all this season and the dreaded "DZ bump" never reared it's ugly head!
Good luck!
John L. Konneker

That's the one I'm using now actually

In that case....AR70 all the way!

-Mike

Correct - I don't have any left and I'm not sure on when I can get them again. The problem with RCATS is that the on/off switch is on a timer - press the contact switch down and it stays hot for 45 seconds. The delay on the timer is built for the 1st 6 seconds so if you have trouble getting your motor to fire (or it fires and then dies) you have to wait for the system to reset before trying again. This isn't good for use at the Nats or if you are trying to start your motor in a hurry. I'm going to talk to Mike about changing the RCATS to use a hard switch instead with a delay - that way one can turn it off and then turn it back on again.

Derek,
Sorry to disagree...

But that's not how mine works.
It's true that it is on for 30-45 seconds (can't remember which now) when you push the button and it lights after the 6 seconds but if you mis-start all you have to do is push the button again and it resets the delay.
You can confirm this by the light bar...if you don't see it go out after you think you reset you fumbled the button.
Otherwise the lights go out and you are good to start spinning the motor again.
Also, if you are having problems say starting a new engine and want to disengage the glow to see if it will run unassisted.
All you have to do is hold the button down and it de-energizes the glow.
If the engine starts to stumble let off the button and you relight.
Like my review said in the K-Factor.
I REALLY like mine!
JLK

Well, either way, the timed start WORKS and that is the best answer to the dreaded YS "kick". I really liked the ones you had Derek, but the RCATS is smaller and if it works as well then I think I like it better. Doesn't really matter as long as you can tame the kick. Then you can run a super soft mount! just don't run it out of fuel or all bets are off....and so is your chin cowl!

-Mike

John,

Then I was misinformed by an RCATS user this past weekend - he told me that one has to wait. I stand corrected. Anyway, I'd still like to see a hard switch instead of pushing a contact switch that is under plastic. I will still talk to Mike...

Guys.

Excuse my ignorance but what exactly is dreaded "DZ bump"? What are symptoms and what is the reason for this problem?
Is this typical only to the YS- DZ?

Thanks

Yoav

Mike I am a little confused I currently have this mount http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/product...11&subCatID=12 which is the old AR I believe.

I need a mount for my Integral too and the only new one I can see available here in the UK is this one http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/product...11&subCatID=12 thats called the CR is this suitable? its half the price of the old AR?

Thanks
Jason

Hi all,
about the Integral, just go on ZN Web site. The soft mount they are selling is working fine. The engine is not moving enough to damage the cowl.
They are not pre-drilled. So you can install YS 140-160-170 OS 140-160.... You halso some mm of freedom to increase distance between nylon beams.

JPZ is in Argentina this week.

Regards

Laurent

The DZ-bump is the little issue that the DZ series has if it gets too much fuel in the chamber when it starts. It essentially backfires and kicks really hard and with the rotational type soft mounts the engine can really move a bunch. Other motors will backfire when flooded, but they dont tend to kick rotationally like the DZ's do. It is amazing just how far one of these motors will move rotationally when this happens,

Arch

Yoav,
On an F3A 2 meters ship which cost $2500 and up with YS160DZ which cost about $650 and up you don't go and save $50 on the engine mount.
What is good for 2 strokes is not necessarily good for ordinary 4 strokes and what is good for ordinary 4 strokes is not necessarily good for YS160DZ.
Good engine mount is so important for various reasons including current drain from Battery pack - so this is really not the right spot to save.
One more thing to think about is the weight. You want to watch your weight all the time otherwise very quickly you will get close to 5Kg.
I am using nothing but Hyde mount for all my airplanes regardless of size and engine type.
Amram

Hi Arch,

So how the anti-knock glow starter solves this DZ "bump" problem?

Can it also be soved by always starting the DZ with its cylinder pointing upward?

Thanx

Yoav

It ramps up the fire slowly. Beyond that it's going to take Troy to explain why it works

But, it works.

-Mike

Yoav,

Essentially what the anti-knock glow drivers do is delay igniting the glow plug until you've got the motor spinning with the starter. If you use a regular glow driver which ignites the plug right away and then put the starter on the motor - the motor will backfire right away (I'm not sure exactly why). However, if you take a regular glow driver which has a switch on it such as the Radio South one and you have enougth hands (don't try this at the field if you are by yourself ) - one or two hands to hold the plane, one hand to hold the starter and to start spinning the motor and then another hand to flip the glow driver switch to on while the prop is turning then the problem goes away. This really takes 2 people to start a motor.

This is easily corrected by using a glow driver with a timer on it that gives one enough time to turn the glow driver on, grab hold of the plane with your one hand and then with your remaining hand to take the starter and to start spinning the prop. Just the fact the motor is spinning when power is applied to the glow plug will stop the motor from backfiring.

-Derek