vquick

My Feedback: (71)

Im looking for a good tuned pipe for my OS 160

anuthabubba

My Feedback: (102)

Have you looked at MACS Products? How about a homemade moussecan + header?

Terry in LP

jonlowe

My Feedback: (12)

I, and many others, have used the Aeroslave pipe successfully with the 1.60. www.aeroslave.com

Jon Wold

Hatori 902 (probably in stock at Singahobby) or the 520mm pipe from f3alorenz.de, http://www.f3alorenz.homepage.t-onli...lldaempfer.htm (I'm using that on my 160)

lodomjr

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Victor,

Use the Aero Slave pipe and you also have that header I gave you don't you. That's the best set up to do.

Larry

vquick

My Feedback: (71)

Yes I still have the heather you gave me but I will like to now if somebody have a pipe for sale

lodomjr

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Victor,

May get on the NSRCA e-mail list and you can get alot done about finding something there.

Larry

AAbdu

My Feedback: (18)

I am pretty sure I have one of the feather light ES carbon fiber two stroke pipes. I would be willing to make you a heck of a deal on it. I will take a look when I get home tonight and let you konw for sure.

Thanks
Anthony

liquid_TR

MVVS 26cc tuned pipe with a custom header works extremely well on 160 FX

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

I really like the Aeroslave pipe for the OS 1.60.  Seems to run much easier than even the ES.  Plus Lance at Aeroslave is great to deal with. 

Arch

NJRCFLYER2

My Feedback: (42)

Either the Aeroslave or the ESare good ways to go. You may get a little more power out of the Aeroslave, but it can be aslightly peakier than the ES. The EShas a mellower sound IMO, but it's not a very big difference. I've run the MACS pipe in the past and it makes a considerable amount of power, but it is less friendly to set up, relatively loud and tinny sounding by comparison with the Aeroslave or ES and definitely heavier. It is also has jumpiest response of the 3.

Jon Wold

Tach figures for My OS 160: 8100 rpm, idle at 1500rpm.

15% nitro, APC 17x12, Lorenz pipe at 70cm (total length from start of header to end of pipe) OS #F plug, Perry pump.

RC11

My Feedback: (7)

Tach figures.... OS160FX   Hatori 907 header    ES 7/8 inlet pipe   Perry VP 30  OS F plug  15%Ritches Brew. 8200 RPM with 18.1x10 APC Prop.  1/4" gap between header and pipe per Jason Shulman. Replace rear bearing with stainless. Tap upper left backplate hole for OS140RX EFI pressure tap for pump. Back out pump screw 2 turns. Turn in low speed needle 2 turns. High speed needle 1.5 turns. Choke with verturi open and prop thru 5 revolutions. This should get your finger wet. Close venturi and prop through 3 more times. This should get fuel to plug. Now place glow igniter on and briskly back flip motor clockwise. If you have fuel in the cylinder ,   it should fire. This is the procedure I followed on the last OS160  NIB and it fired up the second back flip.  We now have 3 flights on a fresh Black Magic VF3 and the motor has been flawless. I have used this setup on four different planes both pumped and unpumped  and it is super reliable and makes great power. There maybe some more tweeks to improve power but I,m very happy with everything! I will leave well enough alone. This set up with the ES pipe has a  nice mellow  note and great throttle response.  All this info is stollen from Jon Lowe and is known as the Jon Lowe Cookbook  set up. Read it for youself on rcaerobats.com.
                                                      RC   Flip and Fly! 

jonlowe

My Feedback: (12)

I generally found you do not need to change the stock pump setting at all. Some people do, and if it works, that's fine. I recommend leaving it alone and only changing it if the engine runs too rich everywhere. You also need to add an OS bubbleless clunk, or the YS foam equivalent, to your fuel tank, as this helps keep the engine from leaning out from airbubbles as the tank level drops.

I found that I could gain 150 to 250 rpm by using an OS 86 carb from the old OS .61 RFP ABC-P engine. You have to drill and tap the carb for the mounting screws. The carb from the OS 1.40 RX works well also. Both have larger bores than the stock 1.60 carb, and are designed for pump operation. Tower Hobbies sells a plug (part # LXCT39) that will close off the stock needle valve hole so you can use a remote needle. You also need to block the fuel return port on the 86 carb with a screw of the appropriate size.

The best prop I found is the APC 17x12W. This is not a common prop, but I was able to get them from Central Hobbies. This prop gave better pulling power on vertical uplines than the 18.1x10. This seems counter intuitive because of the larger pitch, but it is a lighter prop, and seems to spool up and down better.

After three broken crankshafts in one year on a couple of engines, I did two things. I stopped using the 18.1x10W prop (the 18.1x10 seemed to work fine), and I used a dremel tool to remove the sharp edge at the back of the crank port, radiusing and polishing it. All three had sharp edges there, and cracks propogated from that point, and went around the circumference of the crank. All three failures were identical in nature. The 18.1x10W prop is very heavy, and was likely exacerbating the issue. I radiused the sharp edge and changed props at the same time, so I don't know which ultimately solved the issue, but I never had another problem with any engine after that. That is a routine mod I do now on any new 1.60 when I change out the junk rear bearing before running it.

This proved to be a very trouble free setup over several years of flying. I went to YS power late last year because the OS 1.60 just can't compete on low end torque and throttle response to the YS 1.70. It could up thru the YS 1.60. I do miss the cheap fuel costs and fuel economy of the OS though. And I could buy a whole new engine for the cost of parts for a rebuild of the YS!

AAbdu

My Feedback: (18)

RC11,
I tried to send you a PM but was unable to. It is weird, I can type the message and add aimages with no ptoblem, butthere is no button to send it. I just get a message that says "html type mismatch error".

Anyway, I have two pipes that you can use with your OS 160:

I have a used ES two stroke carbon fiber pipe. It is extremely light and in good shape. The only thing about it that is not perfect is a small scuff toward the neck right behind the reinforced part (there is an aluminum ring at the front opening to offer support when the pipe is clamped to a header). I think I clamped it a little tight and managed to scuff/distort it slightly. You can't even see it in the pictures but you can feel it a little bit. It does not seem to effect the operation of the pipe. This is a non tuned pipe and is very quiet.

I also have a NIB OS tuned pipe, the one that was designed for the OS 140 I believe. I have no reason to believe it would not work very well on your 160. It is in perfect condition and has never even been removed from its packaging.

New the ES pipe was $169 I think, I would take $65 bucks for it shipped

The OS pipe is in stock at Tower hobbise P/N # LXCC51 and is listed for $264.99 I will let that one go for $85 shipped.

Let me know if you have interest in either.

Thanks
Anthony

AAbdu

My Feedback: (18)

RC11

AAbdu

My Feedback: (18)

For some reason I can not send PMs, I can only receive them. If you are interested ina pipe please email me at [email protected]

Thanks
Anthony

RC11

My Feedback: (7)

Hey Sponge Bob,
      What is your # in Bikini Bottom?
                                   RC 

TheEdge

My Feedback: (788)

Surplus to my needs is this very hard to find Hatori 900 pipe that will work with the OS 140Rx and the Webra 1.45 Used but in very good condition.
Asking $135 shipped to the lower 48

PM me if interested.