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Originally Posted by MTK
(Post 11790207)
Let me suggest that you make your own from an XOAR or Falcon ELECTRIC woody. Shape it like an APC, thin the blades down and sharpen the TE. Then cover it with 3K carbon cloth and epoxy, and bag it. This is a proven working concept that I have used on many props. It sounds like the engine should turn something like a 22x10 or 22 x 12. And BTW, any APC of this size will weigh about 200 grams. The woody-carbon hybrid weighs about 85-90 grams. Juuust a little weight savings.
One of the better props I've made for my GT33 is a 20 1/4 x 12. The engine loves that prop and it is very similar to an APC blade shape. APC's are the best in design. I agree that the new 185 APC may be around 200 grams. The 20.5 X 10, is 35 grams heavier than the 19 X 11 i used on my 170 cdi. A 22" prop less than a 100 grams would be great. 100 grams is a huge amuont of weight to save in a pattern ship. APC props are an excellent prop. If only they would make them lighter. |
Originally Posted by drac1
(Post 11790223)
Hi Matt,
I agree that the new 185 APC may be around 200 grams. The 20.5 X 10, is 35 grams heavier than the 19 X 11 i used on my 170 cdi. A 22" prop less than a 100 grams would be great. 100 grams is a huge amuont of weight to save in a pattern ship. APC props are an excellent prop. If only they would make them lighter. Those weights for the APC props are amazing. I'm so used to the EL props at 40 grams.. Spoilt lol... Have you looked to see what Mezjlik have available for the 185? They make some real nice props for both IC and electric. Cheers, Jason. |
Originally Posted by Jason Arnold
(Post 11790312)
Hey Scott?
Those weights for the APC props are amazing. I'm so used to the EL props at 40 grams.. Spoilt lol... Have you looked to see what Mezjlik have available for the 185? They make some real nice props for both IC and electric. Cheers, Jason. I haven't looked at anything other than APC. It's just what has always been used on YS's, as they are an excellent prop. It may be worth experimenting. |
Originally Posted by MTK
(Post 11790207)
Let me suggest that you make your own from an XOAR or Falcon ELECTRIC woody. Shape it like an APC, thin the blades down and sharpen the TE. Then cover it with 3K carbon cloth and epoxy, and bag it. This is a proven working concept that I have used on many props. It sounds like the engine should turn something like a 22x10 or 22 x 12. And BTW, any APC of this size will weigh about 200 grams. The woody-carbon hybrid weighs about 85-90 grams. Juuust a little weight savings.
One of the better props I've made for my GT33 is a 20 1/4 x 12. The engine loves that prop and it is very similar to an APC blade shape. APC's are the best in design. |
Originally Posted by drac1
(Post 11790397)
Sent you a PM Matt.
Forgot to mention that my 20.25 x 12 carbon-wood hybrid weighs 77 grams. Not quite electric like on weight but fairly close. One thing certain, lighter props definitely fly better reducing plane reaction to higher G stuff. As always, your milage may vary |
I just got a 185 and had a very difficult time with break in simply because I followed the instructions in the box. However, 2 turns in not NEAR enough. when you get the new engine go out at least 3 and 1/2 turns to start. Also run at high idle for a very long time-10-12 oz, then increase gradually and run another tank through it. Use at least 20-30 oz of oil rich fuel to break in. I missed or don't see this info posted anywhere.
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Originally Posted by drmike
(Post 11812210)
I just got a 185 and had a very difficult time with break in simply because I followed the instructions in the box. However, 2 turns in not NEAR enough. when you get the new engine go out at least 3 and 1/2 turns to start. Also run at high idle for a very long time-10-12 oz, then increase gradually and run another tank through it. Use at least 20-30 oz of oil rich fuel to break in. I missed or don't see this info posted anywhere.
My 185's are about 1/2 turn further out than my 175's. |
Drac,
That would be consistent with what I am doing. Mine is the non CDI version so it requires a more open needle. Mine 175 non CDI is about 1 1/2 turns out. With non CDI I recommend the 3 plus turns out to start. Mike |
With the cdi you can run the engine 1/2 a turn leaner. I ran my 175cdi with a glow plug and had to open the needle 1/2 a turn.
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sounds good.
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Hi Guys, I'm new to these forums so please be patient. I have just installed a YS185 in an Asyuler. Is the regulator setting correct out of the box. Out of the box screw is level with outer case.1/4 past 9 . On this setting with needle valve 2 turns out engine revs picks up to about half throttle then starts running rough and won't pick up further RPM
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Okay thats the needle valve setting but did you guys leave the regulator setting where it was out of the box or does this need tweaking as well. ( By the way its a non cdi 185)
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it is very deceiving. open the high speed over 3 full turns, maybe more and try again. Also, richen the low end as well.
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Regulator is too rich.
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Quickset,
what happened? a couple of us responded but we have heard nothing from you. |
Hello all! What prop sizes are people using for the 1.85 cdi?
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Originally Posted by Wild Beat
(Post 12067685)
Hello all! What prop sizes are people using for the 1.85 cdi?
I have the 21 X 10.5 coming to try. |
Originally Posted by drac1
(Post 12067820)
20.5 X 10PN.
I have the 21 X 10.5 coming to try. Scott what kind of numbers is yours turning this prop at full revs? |
Hi Matt,
6900-7000. Ths is around 200 less than some others, but I mix my own fuel and I think the calorific value of the methanol I use is less than some of the pre mixed fuels. The engine has also done alot of work, so probably could do with a new ring which I will do soon. |
Originally Posted by drac1
(Post 12067866)
Hi Matt,
6900-7000. Ths is around 200 less than some others, but I mix my own fuel and I think the calorific value of the methanol I use is less than some of the pre mixed fuels. The engine has also done alot of work, so probably could do with a new ring which I will do soon. I know you have a GT33 project in the works. The throttle curve is pretty strange compared to the glow stuff but throttle can be tamed with some work and thought. |
Originally Posted by MTK
(Post 12067999)
Thanks. I'm getting similar output on my 4 year old 33. The 20.5 x 10 may not be the most load still. I hear a little prop noise. I wish there was an 11 pitch. Just don't want to bend it myself.
I know you have a GT33 project in the works. The throttle curve is pretty strange compared to the glow stuff but throttle can be tamed with some work and thought. From what I hear, if the pitch is changed on a APC, it will gradually go back to the original pitch? The 20.5 x 10 is a 175 prop, whereas the 21 x 10.5 is designed for the 185. |
Interesting. So they either narrowed the blades even more to keep rpm at 6900 or left them the same and are stiving to reduce rpm a couple 100 r's. I suppose striving to get closer to electric rpms. I'm an interested bystander, not so much for the YS but for the prop.
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Hi All
I'm just getting into setting up my new ship, and was wondering about the cdi 185 zero. Has anyone tried the 'zero' version? Any thoughts? Is it worth going that way, and have the same running and power characteristics of the non 'zero' version? Or should I stick with the normal non 'zero' cdi 185. |
Originally Posted by topiwala
(Post 12113164)
Hi All
I'm just getting into setting up my new ship, and was wondering about the cdi 185 zero. Has anyone tried the 'zero' version? Any thoughts? Is it worth going that way, and have the same running and power characteristics of the non 'zero' version? Or should I stick with the normal non 'zero' cdi 185. From what I've read, the zero doesn't make as much power which makes sense. Nitro equals power. Run whichever one suits what you want. If you're after cheaper running costs, go with the zero. If you want power, then its nitro. |
Originally Posted by drac1
(Post 12113169)
If the Zero version produced the same power as the Nitro version, it would be a no brainer. But as they say, you can't have the cake and eat it.
From what I've read, the zero doesn't make as much power which makes sense. Nitro equals power. Run whichever one suits what you want. If you're after cheaper running costs, go with the zero. If you want power, then its nitro. |
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