Synergy, F3A version.
 

Our coverer and good friend Yves came by today to do some machining on his cylinder heads for his Synergys. He uses the OS1.60 with Cline Regulator and relieved some cooling fin on the left side of the head to allow a little extra clearance. The tiny bit removed should have zero effect on cooling, so not to worry.

Here are some photos of some things that have been done a little bit differently on this airplane.

Of course, first I want to identify the owner. He did ask CPLR for permission to fly with this paint scheme.

Covering detail.
 

Cut on our plotting machine, 2mm overlap all around. Yves does some of the finest work in the world when it comes to Oracover.

Pull-pull all around.
 

He has switched from elevator servos in the tail to servo tray mounted and then opted for pull-pull over the MK device.

And the servos mounted.
 

He used aileron servo boxes to raise the elevator servos.

This is a six stringed Synergy. I wonder if it can play "Stairway to Heaven" while on the upward line of an hourglass.

Motor mount
 

2 screws hold this motor onto it's mount. The mount beams are only long enough to reach the first two holes on the motor's mounting bosses. Of course, a nose ring stabilzes the front. Easily a couple hundred flights and zero problems. Saves a few grams and works perfectly. The motor mount is a custom ZN piece that is very very light weight at under three ounces.

Noses ring.
 

Nice clean mounting. The motor will not stray.

Needle valve
 

Yves used a standard backplate on the 1.60 and mounted the needle valve on the fuselage. It may provide better adjustability as it will not vibrate aloong with the motor; it may make no difference whatsover, only providing a very handy adjustment.

The Cline Regulator will be mounted just behind the needle valve, not just behind the carburator. Yves has used it like that for about a year now with perfect results. The needle is not overly sensitive at all.

Buttoned up
 

Here sits the whole thing in it's nest.

Pretty!
 

If weather is good, she will fly next week.

Last photo
 

With the belly pan.

Thank you Yves (that is pronounced Eve) for letting me share your ideas with the world.

I'll get a couple of photos all assembled later on. He only brought the fuselage today.

Synergy, F3A version.
 

Mark,

Beautiful plane!!
What kind of screen is that Yves used on his carb as airfilter?
It looks like very fine mesh such as stocking, but I can't see how it is held on to the carb.
Any output difference?

Also, the wing seat area has something like white plastic strips probably to protect wing and reduce gap. It looks very similar to those use on EZ ARFs.
Am I right?

Synergy, F3A version.
 

I'm very impressed. Wish my covering jobs were at least half as good as those. So the covering is cut using a Plotter? Sorry but I don't see how that works. Could you elaborate a bit more for me?

Synergy, F3A version.
 

PatternFlyer: The carb is covered with a material similar to stocking. Nothing fancy here. I'll have to ask Yves about the band holding it on. I think it's like a small, flat O-ring.

There is nothing on the wing saddles. The Synergy has wing fairings of gelcoat and the shine in the photo is giving an optical illusion. Not many airplanes use them anymore. My Majestics have them, and CPLR uses them for his designs, but the Evolis/Enigmas from AP are flat sided. I am not sure if there are any benefits from having them as they add a little weight. Perhaps they assist airflow at the root of the wing. I think I will pose that question in the "aerodymanics" forum.

CDallas, please see page 10 (I think it's ten) of the ZNLine Factory: Enigma Building thread. There are pictures of the cutting plotter we use to cut the covering. We discussed lots on covering today and I hope that in the next few months I can do a short thread on the techniques used.

I can tell you that it starts out with an immaculately prepared surface. I had sanded to 1000 grit some surfaces and Yves did not take them today. He showed me some barely visible imperfections that he wanted filled before he would take them. We must do all of the sanding in our shop so that his covering room stays as dust free as possible.

Regards,
Mark

Oops, wrong page
 

Make that pages 8 and 9. I forgot how much I posted since that day. I put some screen shots of the computer files on there too.

Mark

Synergy, F3A version.
 

That sure is some nice covering!!!
Mark, what type of paint is used on the fuse?
Also, do you know what brand the servo pull pull wheels are?
Clevises and control horns?
Thankyou
Cameron McDonald

Synergy, F3A version.
 

Yes, please. I love the look of those servo pull-pull wheels. Whose are they. Please excuse the drool marks. thanks

Synergy, F3A version.
 

Mr. Novak, all i can say is "you're soooooo on top of it" nice work! great photo's all the way thru the process. a pleasure to read you're threads. with all this sucking up can I have one! haha I want one just like it that's for sure. can I build it in that shop of yours too!

Synergy, F3A version.
 

Let me quess on the control horns and clevis. The control horns look like standard screws, washers and self-locking nuts of the appropriate size with MK little plastic screw-on dewhickies. The clevis are Tettra. How'd I do. The wheels still stump me.

You are right on
 

Threaded rod, nylon washers, and locking nuts.

I am not sure about the pull-pull wheels. I think Hangar Nine makes the equivilant in the USA. I will look into the purple ones. I do like purple.

The pull-pull sets are Tettra pieces, coated steel cable, clevises, really simple stuff that just works so nicely and leaves money for those more critical attachements, like MK B.B. Adjusters which are very expensive but I think worth it.

Mark

Synergy, F3A version.
 

Hi Mark, those pull-pull wheels are fabulous ! Did a search on H9 and CH and couldn't find anything similar. Could you kindly find out ? Thanks ............

Synergy, F3A version.
 

anyone know if those wheels are avialable for hitecs ? I've been looking and it seems they exclude hitec for some reason. thanks for the help

Synergy, F3A version.
 

Hi Mark,

Really nice job!

Thanks to your advice on a previous thread, I am using the same engine and regulator on my Synergy, and ordered from radiosouth a header and ES composite pipe.

Would you mind posting a picture of the hole mount/engine/nose ring area? Is this engine hard mounted? Why is the engine angled, is to accommodate the side to hear header?

Thanks a lot again!

Your welcome.
 

I will try and get some more pictures of the mounting.

The motor is soft mounted. Hard mounting in these extremely light weight fuselages is not a good idea. It is angled to present equal clearence for both the header pipe and the cylinder head from the belly pan.

Mark

Synergy, F3A version.
 

HI Mark,

I'll use this thread to ask a belly pan question. The belly pan on my Alliance is "flairing-out" in the portion that is near the leading edge of the wing. I have used a heat gun to warm-up and bend back so that the belly pan is alligned with the fuselage, but this only lasts for minutes. How do you keep the dimension of the belly pan within the width of the fusleage at this area?

Have you guys used the "latch" method of belly pan attachment like the Japanese use? If so, your thoughts on latches for the belly pan would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim

Synergy, F3A version.
 

Jim,
My Majestic is mounted using the "magic box" latches from MK. They are tedious to install, but the do work nicely. With the latches, I use guide pins to secure the rear of the pan to the fuse, the boxes a couple of inches forward of the gear, and then a single screw at the front of the pan for my peace of mind. I'll get some pictures of that when I get my Majestic into the shop for maintanence.

The area which you describe as flairing is held in place on our airplanes by the mountings which are very close to there. It is a very very thin spot in the belly pan at that point and really flexes a lot. I recommend a conservative bit of carbon fiber matting layed in place with epoxy, then mount the pan and tape it so that it conforms to the needed shape and let it dry. This will fix it into position nicely. CF will work much better here than fiberglass. Just run it so that it covers the gear exit a little bit and then grind it flush with the Kevlar after it dries. You may need to unscrew the gear for that.

Mark