Electric Osmose Building
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For those of us who have no building experience, Here are some pictures:
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very nice pic[8D]
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Great stuff, look forward to more of your instructional photies.
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Hi
Najary. Nice crocs you have :) Waiting for more pic's! Ram |
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I think it is a great opportunity for the entire RC F3A community to learn how a top F3A master, 30 years in F3A,
build his new F3A ship. I will not exaggerate if I say that Itzik is one of the world top F3A builder and for him F3A ship building is a science by itself. Itizik, please keep up the photos documentation. I am confident that this post will become an essential masterpiece for any F3A Pilot. Amram |
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Very nice work !! Thanks for the pics . Have also done a lot of scratch building ( for the past 30 years ) and doing it very much the same way . Roly and myself were discussing the reason for the ply on the back of the wingtip ....something I don't do on a patternship. Do you do this to strengthen the tip ? One of my friends does the same on his pylon racers where the L/E tappers down to a very thin edge
Brgds Juan |
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ORIGINAL: jnp Very nice work !! Thanks for the pics . Have also done a lot of scratch building ( for the past 30 years ) and doing it very much the same way . Roly and myself were discussing the reason for the ply on the back of the wingtip ....something I don't do on a patternship. Do you do this to strengthen the tip ? One of my friends does the same on his pylon racers where the L/E tappers down to a very thin edge Brgds Juan Yes, the reason for the ply is to strengthen the tips, I try to build the ship that it will look like new one after hundreds of flights. According to my experience, sometimes the tips are damaged during transportation. Isaac Najary |
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Hi Najary,
This is great stuff, I am also busy with the ailerons, obviously not as quick as you though ;). What gap do you allow between the ends of the ailerons and the wing i.e. where you have marked off on the wing for sanding/cutting? thanks Roly |
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ORIGINAL: rolyjr Hi Najary, This is great stuff, I am also busy with the ailerons, obviously not as quick as you though ;). What gap do you allow between the ends of the ailerons and the wing i.e. where you have marked off on the wing for sanding/cutting? thanks Roly Hi Roly The marking is 2.5mm from the wing tip, that allows 0.9mm gap after gluing the 1.6mm balsa sheet. Isaac Najary |
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Thanks Isaac, assume that with a 0.9mm gap the covering will take up about 0.4. As a matter of interest, did your angled balsa (hinging) come out straight from the box. Of the ones I have, two are scrap as they are warped so will have to make new ones. I figured drawing a line down the middle of new stock and marking the angle on the ends, then sanding and checking with a straight edge is the way to do it. Am I on the right track, any suggestions. Thanks
Roly |
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ORIGINAL: rolyjr Thanks Isaac, assume that with a 0.9mm gap the covering will take up about 0.4. As a matter of interest, did your angled balsa (hinging) come out straight from the box. Of the ones I have, two are scrap as they are warped so will have to make new ones. I figured drawing a line down the middle of new stock and marking the angle on the ends, then sanding and checking with a straight edge is the way to do it. Am I on the right track, any suggestions. Thanks Roly Mine came out straight from the box. I suggest using the straight angled balsa on the wings/stabs (not on the ailerons/elevators). Glue on the ailerons/elevators a new balsa sheets, about the same thickness as the original spars. At first sand it flush with the ailerons/elevators skins, and then sand the triangle shape. Goog luck. Isaac Najary |
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