Switch problems from He_l
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Switch problems from He_l
Switch Problem on 3 planes........I had switches go bad in 2 gas planes just converted from glow........bought 5 new HD Hitec switchs installed them ,and had 2 of the new switches go bad before first flight. The switches would not take a charge through the charge jack it would kick an error on my charger Hitec X4....I tried another charger with same results. Charges direct to battery just fine. I stopped working on these 2 and ordered new switches from Taildragger.
NOW hear is the big problem I decided to go switch less on the 88" yak(my third plane)I purchased all material and made up a deans arming plug(picture enclosed) you can see how far out I have to pull plug to arm. The arming plug will not arm if fully pushed in........it shuts off. If I flick it with finger it turns on and off. If I pull plug 1/16 inch out it arms.
I have soldered circuit boards before so I can solder vary well......I used a Weller gun on the deans....I load solder on gun tip(tinned before hand)and tin the deans connector in about 1 sec. Leaving about a 1/2 drop of solder on the deans connector......I now spray the deans with water(cool it down, and wipe it down. I then tin the wires.............then connect wire and deans in about 1 seconds with the Weller. 2 seconds later the solder cools enough to let go of the wire...... I then spray the connector with water to cool it off quick.....I also have the other half of the deans connector locked up in my holder so the holder wont squeeze the connector I am working on and distort it.
Not sure what I did to screw this up!!!!!!!Help
NOW hear is the big problem I decided to go switch less on the 88" yak(my third plane)I purchased all material and made up a deans arming plug(picture enclosed) you can see how far out I have to pull plug to arm. The arming plug will not arm if fully pushed in........it shuts off. If I flick it with finger it turns on and off. If I pull plug 1/16 inch out it arms.
I have soldered circuit boards before so I can solder vary well......I used a Weller gun on the deans....I load solder on gun tip(tinned before hand)and tin the deans connector in about 1 sec. Leaving about a 1/2 drop of solder on the deans connector......I now spray the deans with water(cool it down, and wipe it down. I then tin the wires.............then connect wire and deans in about 1 seconds with the Weller. 2 seconds later the solder cools enough to let go of the wire...... I then spray the connector with water to cool it off quick.....I also have the other half of the deans connector locked up in my holder so the holder wont squeeze the connector I am working on and distort it.
Not sure what I did to screw this up!!!!!!!Help
#2
RE: Switch problems from He_l
G'day Mate,
When you tinned the wires or connectors, did you use soldering flux.
I have been an electrician in a hospital for over 30 years, & when I solder anything, I always use flux, to tin & to finish solder.
Don't be in a hurry, the joint must get hot enough to allow the solder to flow.
I know you don't want the plastic Deans connectors to melt, but if you don't allow the metal to get hot enough, & use a small wipe of flux,
the solder will not flow into the wire, & you will end up with, what is known as a "cold soldered joint". VERY BAD.
Forget spraying anything with water, electrics & water don't mix, if you want to cool it quickly, buy a can of cooling spray at your local electronics store.
Cheers
When you tinned the wires or connectors, did you use soldering flux.
I have been an electrician in a hospital for over 30 years, & when I solder anything, I always use flux, to tin & to finish solder.
Don't be in a hurry, the joint must get hot enough to allow the solder to flow.
I know you don't want the plastic Deans connectors to melt, but if you don't allow the metal to get hot enough, & use a small wipe of flux,
the solder will not flow into the wire, & you will end up with, what is known as a "cold soldered joint". VERY BAD.
Forget spraying anything with water, electrics & water don't mix, if you want to cool it quickly, buy a can of cooling spray at your local electronics store.
Cheers
#4
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RE: Switch problems from He_l
ORIGINAL: JIMF14D
88'' yak is big plane. Just how many amps are you charging through those little wires and big...little switch?
Jim D
88'' yak is big plane. Just how many amps are you charging through those little wires and big...little switch?
Jim D
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RE: Switch problems from He_l
I have 3 brand new hitec HD switches.......flown plane once.....when I hooked up charger, 2 weeks later it would not allow a charge through the charge port of the right switch.....charges fine through the second back up switch and charged fine through the Ignition switch.
I just find it hard to believe the switch only lasted one flight.........but I guess it can happen. AS for the deans arming plug, I de-solder the first plug and put in another deans connector and problem solved......the arming plug works just perfect.......I must have had a bad Plug or more than likely I just heated it up a little to much and melted the plastic a little, and warped the plug. I will proceeded with the second deans arming plug and have the receiver on 2 arming plugs and for now I will leave the HD switch for the ignition.
I do use flux paste on the wire, and connector blades......I like paste better than flux solder for this type of joint. I do use rosin/solder for circuit boards. The 88"yak has 1 servo per aileron 2 servo elevator,1 rudder all 4 are 194oz 5585 hitec digital running (2) 5cell nicad 1900ma from NoBs with 18 AWG wire from the batts. The throttle is a hitec 645MG 133oz. The third batt is a 1400ma 4 cell cad runs the ignition on a hitec HD switch. I am running 18 awg all the way to the receiver on the deans set up. All the connectors on the Batts and the receiver are hitec gold,crimped and soldered. It a little tricky,to get 18awg wire to fit the hitec connector but it can be done.
Thanks guys it always nice to have someone to bounce this stuff off of when things go wrong.
You guys have kept more of my planes above the dirt than you will ever know. 34 years in this hobby and I am still learning.
I just find it hard to believe the switch only lasted one flight.........but I guess it can happen. AS for the deans arming plug, I de-solder the first plug and put in another deans connector and problem solved......the arming plug works just perfect.......I must have had a bad Plug or more than likely I just heated it up a little to much and melted the plastic a little, and warped the plug. I will proceeded with the second deans arming plug and have the receiver on 2 arming plugs and for now I will leave the HD switch for the ignition.
I do use flux paste on the wire, and connector blades......I like paste better than flux solder for this type of joint. I do use rosin/solder for circuit boards. The 88"yak has 1 servo per aileron 2 servo elevator,1 rudder all 4 are 194oz 5585 hitec digital running (2) 5cell nicad 1900ma from NoBs with 18 AWG wire from the batts. The throttle is a hitec 645MG 133oz. The third batt is a 1400ma 4 cell cad runs the ignition on a hitec HD switch. I am running 18 awg all the way to the receiver on the deans set up. All the connectors on the Batts and the receiver are hitec gold,crimped and soldered. It a little tricky,to get 18awg wire to fit the hitec connector but it can be done.
Thanks guys it always nice to have someone to bounce this stuff off of when things go wrong.
You guys have kept more of my planes above the dirt than you will ever know. 34 years in this hobby and I am still learning.