Otis11

I'm building my second plane. a 40 size stik type (hanger 9 Ultra Stick) .

My first build was a trainer and I used Futabe S3004 servos with a Spektrum 6i transmitter and LiFe 6.6 battery. excellent results

Plan on using the same transmitter and receiver type and battery for the new plane.


The plane is designed for 2 aileron servos and 2 flap servos, that makes 7 total required and I dont want to break the bank. Also, I wasn't entirely comfortable cutting the futaba connectors for the spektrum recevier, but I hear that's common.

Should I stay with the same servos? what would you reccommend for this config? should I use the same servo type for all 7 positions?

mattnew

My Feedback: (2)

same servos are fine for that plane. some would recommend a slightly stronger servo for the flaps, as under load they can test a servo out pretty good. For those look at the futaba s3152 maybe, its ~80oz of torque and doesn't kill the budget.

Anything smaller than a .60 sized plane is fine for the standard servos, and in many cases, the .60 size plane can use standard servos as well... All depends on what you use it for... for sport flying with a plane like a stick... the s3004 is a great choice.

pilotpete2

My current "go to" standard servo is the HitecHS-430BH. Almost 57"oz torque at 6V and over 69"oz at 7.4V., dual BB and HV.
If you were to upgrade one servo function, it should be the rudder, especially if you like to do a lot of knife edge flying.
Pete

topspin

I was going to suggest the Hitec HS-430BH servos also Pete. Lots of torque, good rotation speed, and they definetly won't break the bank. Tower has them for $11.00 each.

A.T.

As above, the Hitec HS-430BH is a very good servo with no need to cut plugs, the only differences are is that the signal wire
is yellow in lieu of orange and the negative lead is black in lieu of brown as used by Spektrum/JR and the horn splines as below.
quote
"Based on the popular HS-425BB, the deluxe ball bearing HS-430BH is a budget-minded analog servo capable of 6.0 to 7.4 volt operation.
Designed with the novice hobbyist in mind, this low cost servo can be used for control surfaces on beginner airplanes and as a throttle
or replacement servo for many ready-to-fly models.
Its excellent durability and dependability make it a solid choice for beginner pilots."
Control System: +Pulse Width Control 1500usec Neutral
Required Pulse: 3-5 Volt Peak to Peak Square Wave
Operating Voltage: 6.0-7.4 Volts
Operating Temperature Range: -20 to +60 Degree C
Operating Speed (6.0V): 0.16sec/60° at no load
Operating Speed (7.4V): 0.14sec/60° at no load
Stall Torque (6.0V): 57 oz/in. (4.1kg.cm)
Stall Torque (7.4V): 69 oz/in. (5.0kg.cm)
Operating Angle: 45 Deg. one side pulse traveling 400usec
Continuous Rotation Modifiable: Yes
Direction: Clockwise/Pulse Traveling 1500 to 1900usec
Dead Band Width: 8usec
Motor Type: 3 Pole Ferrite
Potentiometer Drive: Indirect Drive
Bearing Type: Top Ball Bearing
Gear Type: Nylon
Connector Wire Length: 11.81" (300mm)
Dimensions: 1.59” x 0.77” x 1.44” (40.6 x 19.8 x 36.6mm)
Weight: 1.6oz (45.5g)

The only thing to be aware of is that the servo horns do not match Spektrum nor Futaba:
. Servo - Horn Arm Spline Count and Inter Brand Compatibility.

For future reference, a good servo calculator for each model:
. Hitec - Servo Configurator .. Use to find the best Hitec servos for your application.

Alan T.
Alan's Hobby, Model & RC FAQ Web Links

Otis11

Thanks guys, I appreciate it

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

My recommendation is the JR DS821 digital servo. That servo comes (came?) with a lot of 6-8ch Spektrum/JR radios, so guys end up selling them out of the package to get a better deal on the radio. They are rated around 80oz and are very precise and smooth servos. You should be able to get them for $15-$20 in the classifieds.

The servos you have are fine. If you need to buy more, it is not a bad idea to get stronger servos so you can use them in the future on bigger planes. It is frustrating building a new plane and having lots of servos laying around that are not strong enough for the application.

"Cutting" the Futaba spline is no big deal at all, really you just shave a little plastic off. If you were to damage the plastic housing it is a replaceable part. Just use a brand new hobby blade and take your time, it's a piece of cake.