Soldering servo leads
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Soldering servo leads
Has anybody soldered servo leads to eliminate extensions from vibrating loose inside wing panels ect... Does anybody sell 3 conductor wire for this purpose?
Thanks KA
Thanks KA
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Soldering servo leads
I've done it. It's easy if you can solder without making dry joints and strip wire without breaking the conductors.
You can buy servo wire from www.maxxprod.com, or twist three strands of hookup wire together.
Use wire with lots of fine conductors for the best vibration resistance. Strip a servo lead to see the sort of stuff you need. For long runs, splice in 20 g or 22 g extentions.
You can buy servo wire from www.maxxprod.com, or twist three strands of hookup wire together.
Use wire with lots of fine conductors for the best vibration resistance. Strip a servo lead to see the sort of stuff you need. For long runs, splice in 20 g or 22 g extentions.
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Use the right stuff
And remember, you are soldering ELECTRONIC equipment. Be sure to use solder intended for electronics, and DON'T use acid core solder. Stagger your joints so they don't line up straight across the servo lead. Use small heat shrink to insulate the individual joints, and larger heat shrink to hold the leads together.
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Hot Glue
I have used hot glue to secure the connectors on extension with success. Might not be as fool proof as solder, but it is probably easier. Dab some hot glue around the connectors after they have joined. They cannot be pulled apart (the wires fail first.) To disconnect, take a knife and carefully clean most of the hot glue off without cutting into to plastic connector housing and you can pop the connector apart.
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Soldering servo leads
I've done both. But there are a couple of things to consider when deciding to solder leads. First, might you ever want to use this servo in another location, in another plane? If so, you might find yourself with some extra lead. Second, there are several very positive methods for holding servo connectors together that are literally pennies.
#7
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Soldering servo leads
If you have long leads and plan to keep the plane for a long time, soldering is best. Even the best of connectors will collect some corrosion in time and cause problems regardless of how secure the connection is. The advice to use heavier gage wire is also good, especially if you are using high torque servos.
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Soldering servo leads
If your wire paths will pass anywhere close in the plane to possible interference sources,I would sugesst using a foil shielded cable. We have used this successfully in planes as large as 12 foot wing span.
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Soldering servo leads
With regard to soldering servo leads (or any leads in the radio system, for that matter) here's another question: has anyone considered the effect of heat on the copper wire and possible damage?
My reason for this question/thought is due to the hardening effect from the heating and air cooling of copper. Unlike ferrous alloys, to anneal copper, it's first heated and then quenched in cold water.
Often after soldering a joint, I've noticed that the wire seems to be a bit stiffer directly adjacent to the solder joint (this not being due to solder that has wicked into the strands) which has led me to believe that a certain amount of hardening is taking place when the solder joint cools. Couple this with high cycle vibration/fatigue and you may end up with a broken joint.
I've yet to experience a failure from this but it's always in the back of my mind. Anyone with any experience with this sort of thing or any thoughts on the matter?
Sam
My reason for this question/thought is due to the hardening effect from the heating and air cooling of copper. Unlike ferrous alloys, to anneal copper, it's first heated and then quenched in cold water.
Often after soldering a joint, I've noticed that the wire seems to be a bit stiffer directly adjacent to the solder joint (this not being due to solder that has wicked into the strands) which has led me to believe that a certain amount of hardening is taking place when the solder joint cools. Couple this with high cycle vibration/fatigue and you may end up with a broken joint.
I've yet to experience a failure from this but it's always in the back of my mind. Anyone with any experience with this sort of thing or any thoughts on the matter?
Sam
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Soldering servo leads
I would recommend removing as many questionable connections from an extended lead as possible. What I do may not work for the average flyer. I disassemble the servo and solder a new, longer lead directly to the servo's amplifier. I use JR heavy duty servo lead extensions because they are already terminated with JR servo lead plugs. I just cut them down to the exact length required. I have never needed over 36".
This does away with extra joints which can shake loose or corrode.
This does away with extra joints which can shake loose or corrode.