axa-racer

My Feedback: (1)

hi, ive heard that the fantom engines lose compression fast..like after a gallon or so[]. i was wondering if this is true because i was really planning to get one of the 2005 models.

hitman45

Im sure its not true. Fantom engines are indeed 'racing' engines, thus mainly only racers buying the engine. And racers tend to get the engines are LEAN as possible for maximum performance. Also they use low oil content...which is not always good!

My opnion is that, if you keep the engine running RICH (plenty of fuel), and oil content around 18%, then your new fantom engine should last you for many years to come. But remember to care for your new engine. I'v bought a new NovaRossi CX12P engine (4months old), and I'v kept that engine running on the rich side and have been putting after run oil in the engine for the whole time iv used it. And it still has 95% of HIGH compression (like the way I got it in the shop).

So look after it!

Thats all i got to say

Josh222

it is all in how you treat it, you could get it to last 6+gallon with a proper break in(no idle crap) and runing it good

hitman45

Hey Josh...what is the procedure of how you break-in your engines?. I know that i'v heard somewhere, that idling your engine for a couple of tanks is bull crap. So im just wondering how do your start off your new engine?

Thanks man

Josh222

It is called Heat Cycling it. What you do is run it at proper temps and drive it right from the start. You run a few tank only going 1/4 of full and letting it COMPLETLY COOL AT BDC after each tank. And as the father you get you lean it out and give it a bit more troatle after every few tanks, takes a bit of time to do but it works good,

lax195

My Feedback: (2)

Fantom engines are prone to run much hotter than other engines, so people assume that conpression will be decreased over time but I have had 2 fantoms (fr-15, fr-18) and never encountered this problem.

hitman45

Yeah josh now I get ya. I already do that with my engines, using the Heat Cycling method. But what I do is let the engine idle for 3 tanks (letting the engine cool down after each tank and having the piston at dead bottom). The on the 4th tank, I take it for 1/4 drives for 3-4 more tanks of fuel. Then I tune it.

Josh222

the thing with the idling is that it doesn't get up to the right temps for probper expantion in the engine, so you could do damage but i don't know for sure

hitman45

Well put it this way...I would let it idle for atleast just 1 tank. And then on the 2nd tank, take it for very slow drives...so you can get it upto Operating temps.
I think I will do that from now on.

I just wish you didnt have to break-in engine. Why cant the facotrys do it? and why cant nitro engines be like gasoline engine.

Its crap...

Slacker

You don't want to let it idle even for one tank! That's probably why people think Fantom engines lose compression cause they let the thing idle for at least a tank, which does it worse than good. You have to drive it from the very first tank at around 1/4 throttle to get the internal engine components up to operating temps so they can expand enough; that's the whole point of breaking in an engine is getting the internal parts to expand, shrink back down, expand, shrink back down, expand, shrink back down, ect until the engine parts are broken in.

Also, after each tank, be sure that the piston is at the bottom of the sleeve, because the different parts of the engine are made of different metals, which expand and shrink back down at different times. So, if you have the piston at the top or middle somewhere, the parts will kind of warp out of their original size, causing a loss of compression and performance. Then, after each tank, drive it a little faster each time, leaning it a little more, for about 5 tanks (letting it cool completely between each tank), then you can drive it full throttle and performance-tune it. I also have a Fantom engine (FR12), and I love it. I've put about a gallon through it and it's still as strong and powerful as the day I got it.

Also remember to put after-run oil in it before starting it for the first time and after you're done driving for the day. Also, something I do is, after I'm done for the day, I drain the tank back into the fuel bottle (if there's any left in the tank), then put the glow igniter on the glow plug and try to start it again to burn all the fuel out of the engine and fuel lines, then put the after-run oil in it, which prevents rust. If you leave gas sitting in the engine, it will turn into a jelly-like substance that can harm your engine the next time you start it up, plus, you get that stuff in your fuel lines as well which you than may have to replace.

Just whatever you do, don't try to break in your engine by letting it idle, it's the worst break-in procedure you can do, other than skipping the break-in step(that's the worst thing you could do).

Josh222

ya thats what i have been trying to say. the idle will kill you engine