Pull start help??
#1
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From: haydock, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi, and thanks for looking, well, i have a thunder tiger TS4N sport, i have only just bourght it second hand, and wen i came to pull the pull start, it was totaly jammed, now i thourght the engine was flooded, so i took the glow plug out, and went to pull again, it still wont pull, but if i pull really hard, it moves, and i can see the piston moving, so the engine isnt seized. My freind told me that the problem is the 1 way bearing in the pull start, but does anyone have any other solutions??
I really need to no, a.s.ap
thanks,
Chris
I really need to no, a.s.ap
thanks,
Chris
#2
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Try turning the flywheel to turn over the engine. If it is still difficult to turn over (with glow-plug removed) then most likely the engine is siezed in some way. If it is much easier to turn over then the pullstart may be binding in some way, although i doubt the 1-way is the problem, as they usually just slip.
Try carefully loosening the four pullstart screws a little and try again - overtightening these screws sometimes causes the pullstart to jam.
Try carefully loosening the four pullstart screws a little and try again - overtightening these screws sometimes causes the pullstart to jam.
#3
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From: haydock, UNITED KINGDOM
Ok, thanks alot, im new to nitro cars, and i was woundering were abouts the fly wheel is, i no the outside cog, a balck 1, is the slipper, am i correct?
If not, then you no why, can you please tll me were the fly wheel is?
Thanks alot.
If not, then you no why, can you please tll me were the fly wheel is?
Thanks alot.
#4
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The flywheel is connected directly to the engine, on the opposite side to the pullstart. They are circular and usually made of aluminium or steel. If you turn the car upside down you should be able to see it's edge through one of the machined slots in the chassis.
The clutch is connected to the flywheel. The clutch BELL has the smaller "cog" or PINION gear on it. This is the smaller gear of the two - the larger gear is the SPUR gear. These cars do not have slipper clutches.
I hope that made sense and you now know where some things are and what they are called!
The clutch is connected to the flywheel. The clutch BELL has the smaller "cog" or PINION gear on it. This is the smaller gear of the two - the larger gear is the SPUR gear. These cars do not have slipper clutches.
I hope that made sense and you now know where some things are and what they are called!
#6
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The big black thing with teeth is the spur gear, and if you turn it it will cause the car to move. The flywheel however, as the clutch is not engaged while the engine is not running, will not cause the car to move when you rotate it.
To find the flywheel lift the car up and look directly at the side of the engine opposite to the pullstart. Gently pull the pullstart and the flywheel will move. I'll find some pics for you and post them in a minute.
First pic is a flywheel, second is a pinion gear.
To find the flywheel lift the car up and look directly at the side of the engine opposite to the pullstart. Gently pull the pullstart and the flywheel will move. I'll find some pics for you and post them in a minute.
First pic is a flywheel, second is a pinion gear.
#7
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From: haydock, UNITED KINGDOM
I have just tried to spin me fly wheel, and it is really hard, and sometimes it wont turn at all!!!
Does this mean me engine is seized
Does this mean me engine is seized
#8

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From: Rehoboth Beach, Delaware, USA
Heat the engine with a hair dryer (heat gun, etc).= before trying to start it. Get it nice and hot! This will expand the cylinder/sleeve and free up the piston.
If this engine is new or not broken in properly, you have to run it at light to medium throttle few times for 5 minutes at a time, let it cool and then repeat. Then drive carefully for a few tanks, getting it tuned and add speed.
This is typical of new/tight engines. Once broken in, the engine will be firm, but the piston will move more easily.
If this engine is new or not broken in properly, you have to run it at light to medium throttle few times for 5 minutes at a time, let it cool and then repeat. Then drive carefully for a few tanks, getting it tuned and add speed.
This is typical of new/tight engines. Once broken in, the engine will be firm, but the piston will move more easily.
#9
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From: haydock, UNITED KINGDOM
Its not new, but heres wat im doing tomorrow night
nitro has gummed up in the combustion chamber, so im going to take off the heatsink and clean it out with boiling water.
Then see how it goes.
nitro has gummed up in the combustion chamber, so im going to take off the heatsink and clean it out with boiling water.
Then see how it goes.
#11
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ORIGINAL: chrisofyick
Its not new, but heres wat im doing tomorrow night
nitro has gummed up in the combustion chamber, so im going to take off the heatsink and clean it out with boiling water.
Then see how it goes.
Its not new, but heres wat im doing tomorrow night
nitro has gummed up in the combustion chamber, so im going to take off the heatsink and clean it out with boiling water.
Then see how it goes.
#12
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ORIGINAL: LiamDovyik
hi can ypu please tell me what sizs wheels i should get for my hpi porche 911
hi can ypu please tell me what sizs wheels i should get for my hpi porche 911
#14
Senior Member
Aluminium won't rust, but the internals of an engine are not made entirely out of aluminium. Put water in your engine, leave it a few days and it WILL rust, i guarantee it.
#15
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From: haydock, UNITED KINGDOM
Ok, will i have to use alot of nitro?
I couldnt do it tonight after all, i never had the the allan key to take the heatsink off
I couldnt do it tonight after all, i never had the the allan key to take the heatsink off
#16
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No it shouldn't take much. Carefully remove the head, making sure not to loose the small shim that sits between the head and the top of the sleeve. It may be an idea to use some cotton buds to remove any gummy residue, and then flush the rest with fuel. A few small squirts with the fuel bottle should do it.
If you want to get ALL the gummed up stuff out of the engine, you are going to have to do more though, as this will just remove the gunk from the combustion chamber - not the rest of the engine. If you want the engine to run properly you will need to do the following...
* Remove the engine from the car. You will also need to remove the exhaust manifold - be careful, there is a small paper/metal gasket between it and the engine. Try not to bend or break it.
* Remove the pullstart. When you remove the pullstart make sure you get the inner spool in one piece. Don't just remove the four screws and yank it. Undo the screws and carefully slide a blade or small screwdriver between it and the backplate. You want to get the housing AND the spool together. There is a spring between the two makes the cord recoil) - if you pull the two parts it will coume out of it's mount.
* Remove the backplate.
* Remove the engine head.
* Remove the carb - note exactly what position the carb is in (take a pic so you can set it properly afterwards)
* Clear out the gunk with fuel, cotton buds and afterwards ARO (after run-oil). The ARO will displace the fuel and prevent it gumming up again / rusting. Also check the carb for gumming.
* Put the engine back together. If you have any high temp sealant use it to seal the backplate and the carb to the carb neck.
You may not want to go through all this - clearing the combustion chamber MAY work, but if it was my engine this is what i would do.
If you want to get ALL the gummed up stuff out of the engine, you are going to have to do more though, as this will just remove the gunk from the combustion chamber - not the rest of the engine. If you want the engine to run properly you will need to do the following...
* Remove the engine from the car. You will also need to remove the exhaust manifold - be careful, there is a small paper/metal gasket between it and the engine. Try not to bend or break it.
* Remove the pullstart. When you remove the pullstart make sure you get the inner spool in one piece. Don't just remove the four screws and yank it. Undo the screws and carefully slide a blade or small screwdriver between it and the backplate. You want to get the housing AND the spool together. There is a spring between the two makes the cord recoil) - if you pull the two parts it will coume out of it's mount.
* Remove the backplate.
* Remove the engine head.
* Remove the carb - note exactly what position the carb is in (take a pic so you can set it properly afterwards)
* Clear out the gunk with fuel, cotton buds and afterwards ARO (after run-oil). The ARO will displace the fuel and prevent it gumming up again / rusting. Also check the carb for gumming.
* Put the engine back together. If you have any high temp sealant use it to seal the backplate and the carb to the carb neck.
You may not want to go through all this - clearing the combustion chamber MAY work, but if it was my engine this is what i would do.
#17
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From: haydock, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi, thanks for that, i have just sat here 4 half an hour, just pulling it really hard, now it is fairly easy to pull, but i will still clear the chamber.
Also, will i reck the engine if i put some ntro into the ewhole were the glow plug should be?
Also, will i reck the engine if i put some ntro into the ewhole were the glow plug should be?
#20
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ORIGINAL: chrisofyick
and taking off the heatsink ect...
and taking off the heatsink ect...
#22
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From: haydock, UNITED KINGDOM
Ok all, i have set up a nitro talk forum, please feel free to use it, and register.
www.pureyicker.co.uk/forum/
thanks
www.pureyicker.co.uk/forum/
thanks



