DaShtz69

Hi, I just finished putting the car together and was breaking it in, (the Bess way I believe - just driving it slowly in 2 minute intervals). Anyway, on to the point of my post. Every time I hit the brakes, the car dies. The instructions show a screw that you can adjust, but I cannot for the life of me figure out which screw it is on the car. That's all I have for now, thank you for any help you can provide!

Josh

hpi apollo

ok the tall one sticking out to the left of the air filter is the hsn (high speed needle) the little screw that is on the side of the carb in the center of a little turning throttle linkage is the lsn (low speed needle) and if you take the air filter off you will see a little black hex screw, it takes a 2mm allen key i believe, this is the screw your looking for, also adjust your servo end point adjustments if you can, and the throttle linkage length, good luck and have fun

DaShtz69

Alright, thanks a lot. that was the the right screw and now I can use the brake properly. However, I have come across another problem. I was driving today and all of a sudden the car started taking off on its own, like the throttle was stuck open, but it wasn't. I was very close to the car, so I stopped it and switched the batteries. It worked for a little bit, then did it again. So I started messing with the throttle settings and adjusted them to where it would sit still at neutral. Then I would run out of gas, shut off the radio, and when I restarted everything it would start running off on its own again. The settings were still the same, but then I would adjust the throttle back even farther and it would stop going on its own. I have no idea what is happening, but it seems like the throttle gets stuck open every now and then, so I back it down manually and it works for a tank or so. Hopefully that all made sense, thanks for any help!

hpi apollo

it could be radio glitching causing it to go wot temporarily, do you have a failsafe?

DaShtz69

Jeez, you are quick. If the radio was glitching, would it be causing the throttle servo to open up though? I picked the car up when this was happening and the throttle was not moving at all. It's a JR XR3i radio by the way. Thanks

ivah

If you loose the contact with the car the car will go wot. To prevent this from happening you should mount a failsafe, which makes the car stop instead of going full throttle =)

xstar

there is a nut on the throttle link on the carb. (The thing that turns) the LSN is in the center of it. If this loosens up, the throttle will turn with freely. This has happon to me the last time i ran mine so i just put a little lock tight on it and tighten it down. Not sure if it worked or not couse i have not been out sence but you might wont to take a look at it , this might be your problem..
good luck

DaShtz69

Hey, how has that worked out for you so far xstar? Also, two more quick questions: Do you just spray nitro cleaner over everything or what? The car is getting a bit dirty. And also, somehow the stinger on my exhaust broke. Is it that important? Or will I be safe running for a little while until I get a replacement, provided the exhaust is still exiting the body? Thanks

type-R-mad

if you watch the dvd that comes with the car it shows you all the basics of tuning [8D]

DaShtz69

Interesting, there was no DVD that came with the car. Now, am I going to hurt anything running the car without the stinger until I get a new exhaust next week?

xstar

not sure abouth that one. As for as the DVD, it does not come with one. Not sure what he is talking about. I would think that it would not hurt it to run it beings all the stinger does is deflect the exhaust away from the car. I still have not been able to go run the car after i put lock tight on that nut but i see no reason y it would not work. good luck

type-R-mad

you must only get the dvd with the rtr version then

DaShtz69

Alright, sorry if I am getting annoying, but the questions just keep coming up. Today I was able to run my car for the first time in a week. I put after-run oil in it last week before I left for vacation. I also put a new stock pipe on, with the stinger in place now. I started it up, and let it idle. Then I gave it some gas and it was sluggish. Holding the car off the ground, at full throttle the tires were turning very slow. I set it down, and it struggled to accelerate. Then after a minute or so it just stopped. It was still running, but couldn't move. I turned the HSN in a quarter turn and it was a little better, so I turned it another 1/8. Then everything seemed fine. The only difference was the new pipe, and the fact that it was over 100 degrees and humid out. Could the heat really do this? There was still some smoke/fuel coming out of the pipe, so hopefully it wasn't too lean, but my tanks seemed to be lasting forever. I was driving almost five minutes straight at near WOT and i barely used a half-tank: is this normal? Sorry for the long posts, but I want to be detailed. Thanks for any help!

AzNPuLSe

I would say you probably didn't run the motor dry and the fuel was still in the needle and it got caroded inside.. so the fuel flow isn't as good. i'd goto the LHS and have them take a look at it. Maybe someone else has suggestion. =/


I only say that because I have the same problem with my motor and I ended up upgrade the motor so I can play with my car.

DaShtz69

I would say that might be the problem. The thing won't even run at factory settings now. However, I ran the tank empty when I was done before I put the after-run oil in. I was going to try and just clean the carb, but I can't find any simple instructions on how to do so. Any help is appreciated.

hpi apollo

take some nitro cleaner and shoot it right ont the needle and in the little needle hole, and into the fuel nipple

DaShtz69

Alright, I will have to order some then. Is that the only way? My LHS doesn't have any Nitro Cleaner. Anything else I could use instead? Also Apollo, does it sound like my HSN could be blocked or possibly corroded? I took it out today and I had to screw the HSN another 1/8 turn to get it running somewhat normal. It was still blowing smoke at full throttle, but I am afraid to keep turning the needle in when it starts running like crap. It helps temporarily, but seems to get worse and then I have to turn the needle again.

hpi apollo

denatured alcohol works too


and when it gets hotter you need to lean the needle out, this sounds odd because you would think less fuel and oil on a hot day will make it overheat, well, hotter air means less oxygen per stroke, less oxygen with the same amount fo fuel means its running rich, this can sometimes make it overheat

DaShtz69

Yeah, that makes sense. And the humidity would hurt too right? Because even some of the air is filled with moisture, right? I understand that, but my buddy has the same car and we built them and broke them in together, but his didn't need to be tuned like mine. I am a full turn in from factory now. Before that I was at half a turn in. Just seems like a lot, especially when my buddy didn't have to change anything. Sorry for being so annoying, but I want to figure this out. Thanks again.

hpi apollo

every engine is different, there are variables like:
-fuel
-pipe
-pressure line length
-pressure line inner diameter
-fuel tank (even a tiny leak changes everything)
-fuel line length
-if he has a fuel filter
-glow plug
-air circulation

there are endless small variables that can effect it, also on my old 18ss it got some crud buildup on the needle, when i cleaned it off it ran about half a turn leaner, and humidity is also a factor