xXxCellARatOr

I was initialy looking at the .18CV-R engine for my Nitro RS4. Reason being is because ive seen alot of people on the forums have this engine. But then i was also looking at the .18 TZ engine. . How does the TZ compare to the CV-R in both acceleration and in top speed. How about fuel consumption. and most importantly, engine life. will a turbo last less then a regular engine?

And also, how does the .18CV-R compare to the stock .15FE engine in acceleration and top speed? thanks!

Spetz

I have a OS 15 CVR and that engine is very powerfull and fast
Haven't had any issues with it besides a snapped con rod which was my fault anyway, and starts easy
Actually only issue I had with it is the pull starter
So I am sure a 18CVR can only be better

With the term turbo, I doubt these have turbos mounted on them, more so just a marketing scheme

xXxCellARatOr

Thats good to hear. What engine did u have before u bought the .15CVR? and for which car was it? also what kind of shaft does the engine need to have in order to fit my RS4? thanks!

nitrohead5300

xXx i have a OS .18 TZ I have had it for slightly over a year now , it is holding up very well I have had no real problems with it personally. Life span of the motor?? It depends on the owner and how well he takes care of it.

Jpsonoma

I own both the CVR and the TZ, both are in RS4 3's. They're both excellent little engines. The TZ is defiantly more powerful, but the CVR has great power too. But you can't beat the price of the CVR. The term turbo means it uses a turbo head and glow plug, not an actual turbo like a 1:1 scale car. What RS4 are you planning to put it in? The TZ is a rear exhaust engine, and the CVR is a side exhaust. So if it's an RS4 3 then a side exhaust would be easier to fit anyways. Just something to keep in mind.

rroberto1

Hi there,

I recently bought a OS 18 CVRX for my RS4 3 Evo...it was an easy swap and is a great engine. As for the comparison between the original T3.0 engine that came with my RS4 3, the OS has alot more power and tunes just as easy as the stock engine. I have no regrets buying the CVRX and alot of others also have this engine. its a good investment.

xXxCellARatOr

thanks for the info guys. its good to hear from someone whos had both. it definetly seems like the CV-R is a very good engine. and its just like Jpsonoma said. im gonna go with the CV-R also because its a much simpler fit beign side exhaust. Ill be putting the engine in my old Nitro RS4 RTR. One of the very first generations that ever came out. thats why i have the .15FE in there.

Brent Davis

I have a friend that has both the .18 CV-R and the .18 TZ and I will admit that the .18 TZ will out-perform the CV-R all day long. It has a turbo head and plug and has more ports than the CV-R and I wanna say that it doesn't help that the CV-R has a side exhaust port too.

IMO, get the .18 TZ and make it fit/work.

ferrarimk13

the 18TZ is such a pain in the as$ to fit, because u have to weld the manifold in a little bit, so it doesnt rub the tire, and it makes the exhaust pipe face downwards, it looks funny heres how i did mine

The_Shark

hi ferrarimk13, long time no see, im haveing fun with my nitro rs4MT. im going to race soon at my local track.

anyway, some engines require lots of planning and fitting.

all i know is the cv-r is a power house! i have it in my mt and it has soo much off the line punch and good torq even at top speeds, it tunes and starts eaisy and it runs right where it should. if you decide on the cv-r you will not be dissopointed, as i hear the tz gives you some extra pop, for some extra mula'.

either way you will get a great engine. ****CV-R.. chough chough

xXxCellARatOr

Yes ive decided to go for the .18 CV-R in the end. i just bought it today and i finished 1/2 of the break in. i am doing the heat cycle method. so tomorrow i will continue with the break-in and hopefully the engine will run nicely once i start tuning it.

ferrarimk13

heyy, welcome back, somewhat, where did you buy your CV-R? or did it come with the MT? I just got my car finished a few days ago, and its incredibly hard to turn over, so ill wait to break it in over the weekend maybe.

xXxCellARatOr

i did 3 things to help turn the engine over. first off, i took the engine apart and cleaned it. after that i completely oiled the entire engine. if ur not going to take it apart, just add oil through the glow plug. put the plug back in but leave it slightly loose (tight all the way and then loosened 1/4 turn). adding oil to the engine and leaving the glow plug slightly opened should have already helped u turn it. if u want, or if necessary, also heat the engine up with a hairdryer before starting it. this will loosen it up even more.

p.s. make sure u dont leave the glow plug too loose, becuase the engine wont have enough pressure to start.

The_Shark

it came with the mt. its preety nice and one day i put a screw driver through it (trying to move it over [:@]) but i fixed it with some jb. it does have a little rust in there, but it runs perfect.

i cant help you with breaking in because ive never done it before, i get everything used. im looking for a chance to go to a track

ferrarimk13

sounds cool shupid, hey xxxcellerator, i finally got it easier to turn over, but now, no matter how many times i prime it, and flood it, and clean it, he just doesnt want to start, did u use the factory settings?

xXxCellARatOr

yes as far as starting it i did. if you cant get it started its one of two things. either you left the glow plug untightened enough (prolly not the cause) or you need to give it a little bit of gas. the factory set idle is wayyyyy to slow for those kind of rich settings. so just give it a little gas, then turn the receiver off and pull the pull starter. when it starts turn it back on and try to keep it going. if it stalls imediatly then u need to set the idle speed higher. if u want just do this right away. hope that solves ur problems. btw, didnt u already have the .18 CV-R?

ferrarimk13

thanks a lot, ill try it out tomorrow, let me just heal my blisters first, lol, and nope, i didnt have a cv-r before, i just got the car from my friend, and i put every hop up available for it, just about.

xXxCellARatOr

ok good luck, it took me a while to start the engine for the first time too. but when i gave it a little gas it started right up. now after breakin it start fine without the need to give it any extra, but stalls after a while since the idle is still way too low for the rich settings (havent tuned it yet). btw what breakin method are you going to do?

ferrarimk13

i think im gonna run about 5 tanks through, or about an hour of time, and then shut it down, let it cool, and start it up again, then ill start giving it small amounts of throttle, and soon, ill try to get full throttle out of it, but thatll be around the 8th tank.

ferrarimk13

will the pullstart always be that hard though, even after break in?

xXxCellARatOr

i c. that sounds fine. but why dont you go for the heat cycle method if your gonna do that anyways. the only extra things your gonna need to do is rap the head and wait for it to cool down, but its probably a much better way of doing it then just letting it idle there.

ferrarimk13

oh, and im talking about the TZ, but i guess its all the same, i appreciate your help

xXxCellARatOr

yeah it is all the same, and no, it will still be very hard if u pull it slowly, but once you have fully completed the break in, it will be just easy enough so that you can start the engine without needing to loosen the glow plug or heat up the head. and you probably wont need to give it gas either. especially not after youve tuned it.

GYNAIKAS

I think not. While break in the engine is flooded as it is suposed to be. With proper adjustment and after working a little bit the pullstart will get softer but not much. TZ has great copression rate.

xXxCellARatOr

Yup thats exactly right. like i said, after break in the pull start gets just slightly lighter. but slight enough to make the start up much easier then brand new. but most of the compression will still be there.