Nasty 1/10 scale on-road cars using .21 or larger engines....come inside
#51

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From: Miami, FL
How much is the 3PK stuff?
I never had a reason to go quite that far but I just wanted to see how far I can go and since it was with a 1/5 scale, I knew I can keep a better eye on it. Needless to say that I lost site of that one as well.
#53

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From: Miami, FL
Here's something funny. We went to run last night (late nite) and I took the car out so far that I couldnt see which way it was facing. Everytime I pulled the throttle, it again just got further and further away. I had to get my homeboy to get his truck and take me way down the street just to see where it was. Remember, this is a 1/5 scale with a yellow and blue body.
#54
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From: Waldorf, MD
I will definately be on the look-out for a new Futaba PK3 radio system soon.
I finished all of my nasty 1/10 scale cars last night and will be testing some new tricks maybe this weekend. I will get video of it too.


I finished all of my nasty 1/10 scale cars last night and will be testing some new tricks maybe this weekend. I will get video of it too.


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From: bronx,
NY
hey brent you seem to be the king of all cd 3s i just picked one up from a main also sent for a diablo 15 39.00 from stormer any suggestions on a good pipe im looking at a ths setup for the hpi evo
#56
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From: Waldorf, MD
ORIGINAL: bronx boy
hey brent you seem to be the king of all cd 3s i just picked one up from a main also sent for a diablo 15 39.00 from stormer any suggestions on a good pipe im looking at a ths setup for the hpi evo
hey brent you seem to be the king of all cd 3s i just picked one up from a main also sent for a diablo 15 39.00 from stormer any suggestions on a good pipe im looking at a ths setup for the hpi evo
. I just looked at the chassis lay-out and saw that the car comes with good steel diff gears and with the center transmission like a buggy, I just had to try it. I had a NTC3 that was a great platform to start out with too but the stock plastic diff gears couldn't handle the added power that my .21 was putting to them so I had to upgrade.You ask what pipe to use, well what engine are you going to use on it?
#58
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From: Waldorf, MD
ORIGINAL: Vette09
Not to be off topic, but do you guys down in Md run at 301 raceway?
Not to be off topic, but do you guys down in Md run at 301 raceway?
I don't even though it is 15 minutes from my house. I drag race mostly and some top speed stuff with gear changes. We do most of the drag racing down in Hollywood, MD. at the firestation.
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From: Waldorf, MD
wow man, I shoulda read your first reply hugh? LOL. To be honest, the stock .12 on the car is just as fast as that motor you bought but since you have it now, get a THS pipe and you should be just fine.
#61
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From: rhinelander, WI
Got another gpx4 on the way, woohoo! Gonna leave this one in rtr mode(belt on right side from rear)and use it for a project methinks. Would love to get it into 100 range, but ain't gonna happen on my budget. Any body know what pinions fit on the centax clutch that comes with it? I believe stock is 16/20, but that is not near enough what I want. I could always switch to a standard clutch setup as gears are no issue then, but I like the centax type clutch. Hmmm, I do know the stock ones are 1metric pitch though if that helps. Any body using the gpx4 platform for oversized engine speed machines?
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From: bronx,
NY
quick question is the gpx4 a better car than the cd3 i was looking at the specs for the hyper 12 it has more than double the horse power im just a little leary of the belt drive i heard that they are a pain because they keep blowing off the the gears
#63
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From: Waldorf, MD
The GPX4 and the CD3 are equivalent except one is belt driven and one is shaft driven. I myself prefer the shaft cars because I can do my 1/8th scale wheel/tire conversions where you can't with the belt drive cars.
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From: rhinelander, WI
Pretty much what Brent said, but I prefer belt instead of shaft drive
. Not saying it's better or worse, just what I prefer. I have had fewer issues with belts wearing out or breaking due to debris than my shaft drive rs4 3evo. So it really isn't a durability issue, just personal preference. I'm hoping to get some serious speed with my latest gpx4, but like mentioned, am going to be stuck with 1/10 wheels. Thats a drawback for those seeking crazy speeds, but if I can get it into 80's-90's with 1/10 scale, I'll be more than happy. So, the answer is, shaft or belt is fine. Never had issues with them slipping off pulley or undue breakage or wear. But, when it comes time for a teardown for cleaning and maintaining, shaft drives are SO much easier to work on.
. Not saying it's better or worse, just what I prefer. I have had fewer issues with belts wearing out or breaking due to debris than my shaft drive rs4 3evo. So it really isn't a durability issue, just personal preference. I'm hoping to get some serious speed with my latest gpx4, but like mentioned, am going to be stuck with 1/10 wheels. Thats a drawback for those seeking crazy speeds, but if I can get it into 80's-90's with 1/10 scale, I'll be more than happy. So, the answer is, shaft or belt is fine. Never had issues with them slipping off pulley or undue breakage or wear. But, when it comes time for a teardown for cleaning and maintaining, shaft drives are SO much easier to work on.
#66
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From: Waldorf, MD
ORIGINAL: CBM Racing
Pretty much what Brent said, but I prefer belt instead of shaft drive
. Not saying it's better or worse, just what I prefer. I have had fewer issues with belts wearing out or breaking due to debris than my shaft drive rs4 3evo. So it really isn't a durability issue, just personal preference. I'm hoping to get some serious speed with my latest gpx4, but like mentioned, am going to be stuck with 1/10 wheels. Thats a drawback for those seeking crazy speeds, but if I can get it into 80's-90's with 1/10 scale, I'll be more than happy. So, the answer is, shaft or belt is fine. Never had issues with them slipping off pulley or undue breakage or wear. But, when it comes time for a teardown for cleaning and maintaining, shaft drives are SO much easier to work on.
Pretty much what Brent said, but I prefer belt instead of shaft drive
. Not saying it's better or worse, just what I prefer. I have had fewer issues with belts wearing out or breaking due to debris than my shaft drive rs4 3evo. So it really isn't a durability issue, just personal preference. I'm hoping to get some serious speed with my latest gpx4, but like mentioned, am going to be stuck with 1/10 wheels. Thats a drawback for those seeking crazy speeds, but if I can get it into 80's-90's with 1/10 scale, I'll be more than happy. So, the answer is, shaft or belt is fine. Never had issues with them slipping off pulley or undue breakage or wear. But, when it comes time for a teardown for cleaning and maintaining, shaft drives are SO much easier to work on.
Yes the personal preference is what these two choices is all about. I PREFER the shafts and only because I can make the larger tires fit. Other than that, the belt driven cars are great too.
Nitrohead, I got the PM bro. You da man.
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From: indpls, IN
Brent I like how you got your car set up!! Especially the way you ran your drag pipe. Your car looks fast just sittting still.
#68

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From: indpls, IN
CBM try Kawahara Toys and Hobby Shop out in California, they sell 30mm & 40mm wide rear foam tires no adapters needed.
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From: indpls, IN
Brent when you had your .21 in your nitro tc did the tranny shift ok?? All last summer I was not sure about my tranny shifting right in my TC-3. I figured that the .28 was causing it to speed shift into second. But on a hunch I took apart the 2-speed tranny and discovered that the ball bearing in the 2nd speed hub was binding up and keeping the tranny from shifting out of 1st. THe last run of the season after I repaired this problem was very frighting the car got airborne.............the TC-3 was faster than before because it went into 2nd gear !! I almost lost it!! Never had a bearing bind up on me like that but after it was replaced dam that car is fast.


