solo0610

thanksnitrohead5300 iappreciate your help

Big Red*

hey solo i got a question on how you mounted your pipe, i got an rs4 that i fitted with an ofna .28, i have not yet really decided how to mount my pipe on it yet, right now the piece connecting the pipe to the engine(sorry the word escaped me, but you know what im talking about i hope) anyways the one i have puts my pipe width wise across the back of my car exactly how yours is, but its just resting there, nothing securing it.. and how do you put your body on your car with the pipe right there, mine sticks out the back window, it looks quite odd .. or if possible does anyone know of a smaller pipe that would work with a .28?

Big Red*

sorry to be so wide on the question, ive always used stock pipes, never bought one, and i dont quite understand the difference from one to another

solo0610

i cant put a body on mine because of the pipe but here is a pic on how i mounted it using a coat hanger wire... most likely im just going to build a cage

Brent Davis

My latest CD3 creation thus far. Still not finished but will be an absolute animal once it's completed. The chassis is a new carbon fiber one and was needed so I could move the engine up forward to clear the rear tires. I already made the front driveshaft shorter and it is installed but gotta make the rear one next and then finish putting it together and run this thing.

solo0610

that looks awesome Brent... where did you go to get your tires?

Brent Davis

Thanks.

http://tm-rc-racingcomponents.com/Dr...FrameSet15.htm

nitrohead5300

That looks pretty nasty Brent!

nitrohead5300

Solo, you need to look around and try to find a better header for your motor so you can mount your pipe on the side. Some of the benefits of doing that is you will be able to mount your bodies without alot of modifications. Get a pigtail header pipe like example on picture

solo0610

nitrohead5300- hey what kind of exhaust is that? and i didnt think it will fit because the side of my pipe alone... is that yours? it look really amazing

nitrohead5300

Thats my V-1RRR with just a slightly modified OS .18 YZ motor in it she was blistering fast!! The exhuast is a Vantage pipe . If you look thru this thread you will see that sometimes you have to slightly modify your exhaust pipes to get them to fit. I have cut off the mounting nipple on the tip of some off my exhaust pipe so they would fit in a small area. .

solo0610

l always wanted to get one and she definitely does look fast... yeah i just got back from the hobby store and i would have to get a short pigtail header like yours and cut off my mounting nipple... do you have any problems with your pipe staying intact because im afriad it might move or fall off

solo0610

nitrohead5300

solo sometimes you will have to make your own bracket.

solo0610

i know i bought the header and trying a few things now... buti was wondering about flywheels and clutch shoes... i swap out my old Cenracing Nx-26 and put this lrp z.28r last week and when i was putting it back together i notice my flywheel was only a 2 piece clutch system and hear the more clutch shoe you have the better and faster you run... does it make a different on flywheels and your clutch system?

nitrohead5300

Usually the more shoes you have the more grip so yes more s better. And a lighten flywheel can help you with acceleration.

solo0610

Road Warrior

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Brent for the link on the gearing. They have got to be one of the last places that carry anything for the cd-3. Your car is looking pretty sick too by the way. It looks like there isn't a whole lot of original parts left on it though. Here is a couple pictures of the progress so far. The rest of the parts are going to have to wait till after christmas. sorry about the bad quality they are from the phone. Nevr mind there is a server error and it wont let me post the pictures.

Brent Davis

No problem. Nitrohouse "IS" an extension to OFNA and they are the same company(ies).

My now custom CD3 isn't final yet because I am still building it but what you see in the pic posted is not the final.

The car still has the complete original:
1. CD3 front end with axles to drive the front 1/10th scale tires and not those little skinny tires you see.
2. the original transmission with gearing
3. the original engine mounts
4. the original steering servo
5. the orginal throttle servo
6. the original rear end housing

The things that are not on the car that was originally are:
1. rear bulkhead with shocks/springs
2. original driveshafts
3. original aluminum chassis
4. original battery/reciever tray
5. orginal fuel tank

Things that were done to make it a competitive Pro-Street/drag race car.

1. new carbon fiber chassis and ONLY because I needed to move the engine .5" forward for rear tire clearance
2. smaller fuel tank
3. rear drag foam tires
4. one shorter driveshaft since the trans was moved forward .5" and one longer driveshaft .5" longer to fit the back-half of the trans.
5. new battery/reciever tray and ONLY because when I moved the engine/trans .5" forward, it threw off the alignment of the original tray and it just wouldn't fit/work.

Other than those changes, it still has roughly 75% of it's original parts. I just wanted to make the car the way that I wanted it.

Road Warrior

My Feedback: (1)

I hear what u are saying about making it the way u wanted it. My car would look exactly the same way it does now without there being a thread for a modified on road car. It is the same thing with my firestorm but there isn't a thread for bad ass on road trucks. A good majority of the people in that thread went to big blocks and changed the gearing to make them street trucks after I showed them my custom ride. The problem that I run into is always gearing though. The truck is limited because of the trans breakdown of 4.11 so I made a idler setup (that is no longer on there because of the car) to run a 20t spur and a 16t cb that took it to the mid 70's. Where as my brothers jato got into the 80's with just a gear change and a little of my motor work. I think that the car will be limited as well but still fast as hell since the max is a 38/26 for 2nd. I am hoping that the other motor will add a even amount of weight on the back wheels and the extra torque to make one of the fastest 1/10 scale cars in 132'.

Brent Davis

I really like your idea of using the two 3.3 engines. That is a VERY, VERY strong engine to use from the start. I've had some serious ones before and they make alot of power for what they are. Gotta ask though, why not a .21 since it would be simplier with just one of these? I have ran 2.08 @ 54 MPH with my older version of my CD3 getting completely out of it at about 90' or so. I know that the car can run high 7's or low 8's with a hook and book attitude. Keep up the great work on yours too.

nitrohead5300

Road Warrior the wow factor on your car is off the scale. Are these 2 motors modified? Why did you go with 2 motors instead of putting a highly modified.21? Two -3.3's would be like having a big block in there but big blocks don't rev but 2 small blocks togather if tuned properly should be able to out rev a big block of similar displacment??

Road Warrior

My Feedback: (1)

I had a modified .21 in the car before and it is a crazy combination. Pin the throttle and it is in 2nd gear before the car even moves drifting sideways. The whole idea behind the duece 3.3's is a little more weight on the tires, and its something that I have never seen before. A little over a year ago I had modified my brothers jato and realized that for it being a cheaper mass production motor it has some serious potential. So I bought a couple and was going to mod and sell them but since I dont have one of those major names or any kind of a reputation all I got was harassed by people telling me that I dont know what I am talking about or what I am doing. So they have been sitting on a shelf just looking at me. I dont have any kind of dyno so guessing it should be at least 4 maybe 5hp to the wheels and 40,000rpm. After christmas when I order the rest of the parts I am also going to put a Davis diesel con rod in them so they dont let go from over revving. Thanks on the positive feedback on the project guys

nitrohead5300

Road Warrior a good engine man is a guy called RB Mods. He use to specialize in modding traxxas motors and should have the extra heavy duty rods you are looking for , for your motors . www.rbmods.net Did you try adjusting your shift points for your 2 speed? You may need to put 1/8 scale tranny springs in your tranny to deal with the increase in hp. You are going to have to adjust your suspension try different weight shock oils and shock springs to get your car to hook up.

Road Warrior

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Nitrohead I have been on that website before and forgot about the 3.3 stuff they had to offer. My brother just bought a 18tz that is rb modded supposedly off of the bay the other day. It is what he thinks will beat the dual 3.3's. The part that I like about my project is that it is original and that it does not take a whole lot to do in order to make it work. So if it isn't a major difference over 1 modded .21 it can be changed back in under a hour. Or I could even put 2 .21's in it too for a stupid crazy option. They are on the shelf as well but not in as good of shape or have the same wear on them. One of them is brand new and the others are in need of new con rods and some overall tlc.

Getting the car to hook though should be just some finger finesse. Right now it is just rwd. When I order the other cb it needs a wheel axle to go back to 4wd. I am just wondering if it will need for me to fabricate a wheelie bar for the beast so it doesn't just wind up laying on its lid at the line.

That is a real nice setup that you got going on there Brent. What does something like that cost just out of curiosity.