NetMagi

So I bought a clod from eBay. . . .


I got:

Clod w/ESP IV kit
full set stock rims/tires
full set pro-line giant trac rims/tires
full set spiked dually rims/tires
2 full spare gear sets (sealed)
misc spare parts
futaba rx/tx
2 brand new batts
charger
novak rooster ESC
beautiful custom painted lexan body
(4) gold-anodized aluminum shocks
(2) 27-turn stock rebuildable motors


The condition of the truck is excellent, but it drives horrible. It's setup for 4WS, but only has Futaba S148 servos. They don't have near enough power to turn those big wheels. It also has the sway bars installed and it's geared way too fast. The diffs are unlocked too. Steering is the standard ESP IV setup.

Some of you might remember me from before when I asked if I should get a clod or txt. I was steered towards the clod with a gecko chassis, but this ESP IV truck was the right price and was close enough to pick up locally.

I want to crawl with this truck, nothing more. I already have an e-maxx and a brushless stampede to go fast and jump. . this truck will be my indoor/outdoor crawler.

I have a novak super rooster to replace the standard rooster on there now, and I have a single Cirrus CS-80 High-torque metal gear servo.

Short-term, what do I need to get this truck crawling halfway decent?

So far my list of needs is:

9 tooth pinions
adjustable motor mounts
bearings

What else is reasonably priced that's going to make a difference?

What's the best setup for the zilla IV for crawling? What rate springs should I run? Will those 27-turn rebuildable motors offer enough torque w/ 9 tooth pinions?

Sorry for the 4 million q's. I know my stampede and e-maxx inside and out, but this is all new to me and I don't wanna make the wrong decisions/purchases.

-Rich

dmicgrif

you shoudl get the gecko 2 it is the best crawling chassis out there.

NetMagi

well monetarily it's not an option right now and I think the zilla IV can be a capable crawler

-Rich

Wookie

My Feedback: (5)

If you want to bring the speed down, torque up and increase your run times dramatically switch your stock class motors out to Integy 55 turn lathe motors. This is what a lot of people around here are using. If you do this you will probably have to go to a more normal sized pinion 15-18 tooth size as these motors are only turning a couple thousand RPM even on 7.2 volts. These motors run around $19.00 each, but are well worth the expense when crawling.

I have one installed in my TLT-1 and was able to pull 38 minutes out of a 1700 mAh battery. Torque is excellent even when battery voltage drops, running two should provide enough torque and power to push just about anything.

Next, at a minimum lock out your rear differential. If you are wanting serious crawling ability lock both front and rear differentials. The best way to do so is use JB Weld, but this will be a permenant lock. You will want to keep 4 wheel steering with locked differentials as your turning radius will decrease with them locked.

Not sure about the sway bars. Not much need for them if you are crawling as they will limit articulation.

That's about all I can help you out with as far as your questions go.

dmicgrif

the gecko 2 is only 199 bucks and it is well worth the money.

Element

you don't need a gecko you can turn your zilla 4 into a great crawler.

The first thing I would do is Lock he diffs the difference is like night and day.
Also look into a pair of magnetic mayhems for $18.99 a pair you cant get anything better.Another mod to do is to make your set of dualies into singles.

I'm running a ttr servo mount,bumper and steering kit it works awesome and there no slop at all in it!

hope this helps

NetMagi

I assume that's this right:



I was looking at that. . I also checked out the mudcow method with the single aluminum plate. Which is better and why?

-Rich

Element

Yep thats it well not exactly that is the version 1 I have the second version

Well I'm not much of a fabricator so I like the ttr plus it includes the bumper but I might be bias because I own one.

NetMagi

what rate springs do you run?

Element

I run stock emaxx shcoks there not the bes tin the world but the work ok with cants on.

NetMagi

cool. . I'll keep the gold shocks (likely duratrax) and springs on there for now.

I just ordered a mess of stuff from tower.

I got:

9-tooth RRP pinions
aluminum sheets to make motor mounts and steering mounts
aluminum rod to make new steering links
rod ends
balls for rod ends
40 blue aluminum 3mm locknuts to replace the cheesy non-locking ones on the esp IV chassis
duratrax bearing kit
deans ultra plugs
thin aluminum sheet to make new lowered upper tray


What I still need to figure out is how to mount a battery, and how to lock the diff's. I read the method at www.mudcow.com, but it's confusing. He talks about replacing the output gears when the hex wears out, but the pics and instructions make it seem as though you're glueing at least one side to the diff.

I can't wait to get this thing going. .

-Rich

Element

I mount my battery in the compartment where the links connect to the chassis Is hard to get in to but it works.

Check out clodtalk.com int he crawling section theres a nice pin up on how to lock the diffs of a clod.

DCLXVI

www.rc4wd.com sells a spool for the Clod...it might be a good thing to check out...