NoSpark

My finished SWX

wurster

Here is a pic of my a x 10 it has a novac goat crawler system bent links and 2s lipo pack.

wurster

Getting the green off if eazy just get some drain cleaner and soak all the patrs for a while then rince and soak in baking soada to stop th cleaner and use a dremel with some mothers polish and polish the parts.

djzachtyler

My Feedback: (4)

have some pics of my comp rig crawling at the Steven's Creek Reservor & Linda Vista Park in Cupertino, CA

djzachtyler

My Feedback: (4)

more from the above post last one was a result of a bad tumble goin back down the big rock at the end which snapped a ball joint, and ended my day...[:@]

excuse the picture quality also they were all taken with my BlackBerry Storm...

dhyde79

just bought my AX10 RTC, should be here wednesday, am picking up a full metal kit with bent links to replace all the plastic parts with tomorrow, ordering the MIP Driveshafts, and depending on what kind of price my LHS can get for me, possibly the proline Ambush CGR body with rollcage, the question that I'm running into right away, is....what tires to order....I tried to find the panthers that I've seen talked about but can't even find them on panther's website, so I'm sticking to proline ones.....should I go flat iron, moab, hammer, or chisel?

I know I want the softest possible, I'm not willing to go to lipos yet for batteries, and the LHS said they've had good luck with people splitting their 6 cell Sub-C packs in half and putting 3 side by side on each side of the chassis below the body mount spot.....any ideas from anyone here as far as work or not work well? better suggestions?

dhyde79

also, just grabbed the M3 Flat Iron's....those things are uber-soft....and could look scale if I throw a savage rubicon shell onto the crawler.....

djzachtyler

My Feedback: (4)

I would recommend getting the saddle pack mount plates that go on the fron axle, and using 6 or 7 cell saddle packs. they help add front end weight to keep your front end on the ground. Also if you want to get good tires, go with the Panther Cougars. they are probably the best tires out there, and most comp winning rigs are running with those. here's a link to an ebay listing for them : http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Panther-Coug...lenotsupported

as far as finding them, they are available. you may want to check with your LHS, or go to rccrawler.com and ask there. If you cannot get the panthers, go with the Losi Rock Claws, they are IMO better than the proline ones. As far as a body setup, lower is better. I use the ProLine helios myself, but there are alot of others as well. the key to a good rig is low COG, and to keep the wheel weight a little heavier up front than in back.

MORNINGSTAR

New SWX here too.

Jr9100t 380oz (@6.2v) steering servo.

FXR

DNA dig.

Rovers (blue)

more shots to come w/ custom stickers

jt_2_5

I have a Rock Racer, I want to do a motor swap. will the stock ESC run a 55 Turn motor?

Thanks

Wild Gopher

I just bought my first crawler, a ARTR AX-10. Its stock with a Hitec 7955 servo, Novak Rooster and a 55t motor. I am, also using my lipo stick packs that I use in the slash. Its nice and all, but it needs help and I need advice. I added lead to the front and rear and it grips nice, but my articualtion seems stiff. I rolled over my slash and with my front wheel on the highest part of the body, the rear lifts off the ground. I see tons of pics where people are up on one wheel and the back is planted. How do I get my twist to free up? Thinner shock oil? Softer springs? Also, there are a few things i plan to do such as add the plate that goes over the front axle to nount the servo and a lipo pack, and also the triangle pieces to mount the radio equipment. Does anyone recommend a lipo pack to use? Since switching to all lipo I really dont wanna go nimh.

dhyde79

yep, without any trouble, remember, ESC's can handle larger numbers, just not lower usually



this is the one I'm buying....it's plenty large as far as capacity, I've got a non-saddle pack 5400mah on mine now and get 12+ hours of crawling per charge, I'd expect a 5100 would be fine as well.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...2&I=LXWUJ0&P=K

it's not a 3S like some people are going to, but, that's fine, 2S is plenty of crawling umph for what I'm running....

Wild Gopher

I was looking at those at my hobby shop today and they seem pretty big. Those are the packs for 4wd electric buggy. The pic makes them seem smaller but they are now. Take a regular lipo stick pack and chop it in 2 and thats the result.

dhyde79

that's exactly what I'm after.....my crawler's too light, and way too top heavy, I'm aiming for batteries that're that bigger and will help hold the axles down....besides, my 5400mah 2S stick pack isn't that heavy....those won't be that bad either....

Wild Gopher

Also, I read 3s packs are not compatible with the Novak Rooster ESC I have, only 2s

djzachtyler

My Feedback: (4)

some bits of advice...

Too much articulation like what you desribe as the front being sideways, and the rear planted, is actually not the best thing... it can actually cause you to bind up, or flip on technical runs. I have seen guys get stuck sideways also. Ideally you want around 60- 80 deg. of articulation. My comp build goes about 60 deg and 80 deg when pressed.

as far as seeming stiff... try softer springs, and a lighter weight shock fluid. I run 20wt in my shocks and double white springs. with this setup my AX-10 gets almost anywhere

I run a rooster crawler ESC, with a 35 turn holmes hobbies motor and just run NiMh saddle packs myself, but alot of the guys I know usually run the thunder power LiPo packs.

You definately want to be able to mount the battery over the frnt axle. more weight up front is actually beneficial for steep climbs, and keeps the front well planted. As far as weight I recommend 14-16oz of sticky strip weights in the fron and 10-11 in back.

Another thing to help your articulation is to get the high clearance links in the rear... Also you wanna ditch the plastic shocks if you haven't already they are notorious for the caps popping off at inopportune times. I recommend either the Axial threaded aluminum, or even moreso if you can find a set the threaded aluminum Losi shocks those rock.

You will also want to get a set of good tires too, Losi Rock Claws are good, Panther Cougars are the best.

the few upgrades I have mentioned will get you on your way and are the more inexpensive ones to get you started... once you get going tho it gets hard to stop

djzachtyler

My Feedback: (4)

see my post above this one for some good recommendations on getting your COG good and low

monsterbombs

hello to everyone its my first post here. i have had my
"axial" for a couple of weeks and love it. i am running
a traxxas gearbox and shafts, and have reduced the
wheelbase to 270mm so its not stock but anyway. the other
thing is its not a true axial but an axial copy,of wich one
im not sure.

this is were i need help. i dont mean to highjack your thread
but i read the whole thing and nowhere is a mention of differential
lockers. mine, being a cheap copy has a plastic locker wich has
now failed. anyhoo mine is large and has 4 bolt holes holding it
to the main gear. i have been looking up the locker and h/d lockers.
there is one that looks like a cross and may have threads in it
but the pictures are backwards and dont show that side.
the other lockers are small and say "wheely king/axial"
and have a small pin. they just look wrong.
any help would be appreciated, i can take photos if needed. cheers.
heres my rig.

jt_2_5

thanks for the help.

Wild Gopher

Ok, here is a better example of how stiff my articulation is:
When the crawler is sitting on my garage floor and I steer far left or right, the rear starts to lift. Is there a break in time for the suspension to loosen up? Where am I going wrong here? Its box stock.

dhyde79

if you steer far left or right, and the rear is trying to lift, I'd say there's something seriously too stiff on your setup, check it all out to see if your shocks are stuck or stuff like that, as far as box stock, which model, there's 5 (RTR, Rock Racer, Kit, RTC, SCX-10) and most of them come with different setups....

Wild Gopher

I got the ARTR, the orange one

dhyde79

crap, I forgot the ARTR, so, that makes 6 versions....

djzachtyler

My Feedback: (4)

I would definately get better shocks, and softer springs. you would be amazed at the difference. the rear lifting is a known issue with stiffer suspension happens due to torque twist, I would also recommend getting the locked diffs for the front and rear it helps keep the wheels planted.

calvino

Well I am new to the crawling scene, but not to RC in "general." I picked up an Axial AX10 "ARTR" (ok so its RTR minus a radio) it has
RC4WD Mud Slingers/Aluminum rims (these are nice!)
JR High Torque steering servo
Movak Rooster crawler w/55T motor
locked diffs all around
Intergy Bent Links
20wt shock oil
and the stupidly stiff stock springs (blah).

Anyone recommend a good shell for general crawling that wont cause tons of body rub, i have the pro-line Chevy Blazer with the roof rack/light bar and the CR-01 toyota shell. Both are nice but the pro-line one is more prone to rub (blah) and the CR-01 makes it a bit more top heavy. At the moment I am running a 1450 mah 2s lipo strapped to the top of the servo, works good for general crawling. it has those stupidly stiff stock springs which I absolutely hate the springs since they allow for almost zero articulation Anyone got an opinion on some good low cost ones, i found the integy spring set at $5 for 2 hard and 2 soft i thought why not. If anyone has another spring they love for cheap, leme know. I am not in the spending $20 on springs for my car mood (bit pricy RIGHT [&:])