HBX outlaw crawler Help
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Holland,
MI
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HBX outlaw crawler Help
Hello every one, I am getting my first crawler. It is a HBX outlaw crawler, I was wondering is there any hop up or aftermarket parts for this rig. I tried to lood and I can't find nothing, I know it is a HBX is that the maker or model? Can someone help and tell me where to find upgrades. thanks.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: , CA
Posts: 634
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: HBX outlaw crawler Help
ORIGINAL: tnralberta
Hello every one, I am getting my first crawler. It is a HBX outlaw crawler, I was wondering is there any hop up or aftermarket parts for this rig. I tried to lood and I can't find nothing, I know it is a HBX is that the maker or model? Can someone help and tell me where to find upgrades. thanks.
Hello every one, I am getting my first crawler. It is a HBX outlaw crawler, I was wondering is there any hop up or aftermarket parts for this rig. I tried to lood and I can't find nothing, I know it is a HBX is that the maker or model? Can someone help and tell me where to find upgrades. thanks.
Z
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Marinette, WI
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: HBX outlaw crawler Help
looks an awful lot like this http://www.redcatracing.com/RC-Cars/...wler/Rockslide
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: PalmerstonOntario, CANADA
Posts: 9,180
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
RE: HBX outlaw crawler Help
I found this on a different forum.....good info... heres a link to the below reveiw with pictures.
http://www.norcc.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1815
"Size: 1/8th (very large)
Length 690mm (140mm by chassis clearance)
Width 175mm (karrosse) / 390mm (utmost of tires)
Wheelbase 520mm (140mm by chassis clearance)
Height 310mm (140mm by chassis clearance)
Chassis clearance adjustable 140-240mm
Ground clearance by diff.huse 65mm
Wheel diameter 185mm, 85mm width
Shaft flexibility around. 90 degrees
Weight: approx. 4.5 kg (not quite sure)
Top speed: 3-4 KMT
2 x crawler engines 100T"
In this small review of the HBX crawler, I will look at what the advertisements do not write anything about.
Here I wiull show what I am happy about, and what I do not like 'bout the HBX crawler.
But I could be wrong, So plz correct me if I am wrong
I would start with the things I think is the most important in a crawler.
The gearbox
When you have removed the bumper and servo from the gearbox and look straight at it, one can immediately see the first bold detail, the downward bent shafts which gives more clearance under the differential.
It is something I like.
Control links, with strong ball-heads screwed on a solid aluminum rod, fine, fine
When you disassemble the steering , you can see the next bold detail.
The axle as the wheels on the sides are 8mm thick and are hardened steel.
Together with the strong dogbone, ball bearings on 16mm x 8mm x 5mm and the stronge steering arms, all of which is borrowed from a 1/8 trucks, it seems as though we can not smash it with the speeds we run with.
the steering is screwed together with screws 4 x 16mm of hardened steel and lock nuts, tubes in plain steel.
This is all something I like.
When the gearcover is removed, you see the first "sloppiness" in the gearbox, the way the engine is screwed on, is OK for such an engine which is in it now.
But change to one of the very strong engines it will certainly need a couple of large washers between the screws and the plastic so as not to tare it apart
But do you put a plate on, it can be quite safe, the gearbox looks both stable and robust enough for a couple of very powerful engines.
The engines it comes with, is of 540 type in a standard house.
They should be 100T (windings) and it sounds credible.
They have a fairly good traction and a good power so as to run for a long time on a battery.
For pure Rock crawling it is very good, but lacks "a little umph" when run on a slippery and loose surface.
The first two gears in the gearbox (pinon and spur 1) is 32dp, all the others are in "Module 1".
It is something I like, although I wish the diff. Tooth wheel was not 10mm, but 15mm wide.
I think it would limit my engine choice for something which is only 4 times stronger than is necessary for this car.
But one thing I am not happy about is that after my calculations, only a totalgearing of
1:41.6, which I think are too high.
And since there are already a 10 tooth pinion on the motor, there are not many opportunities to gear down, unless you use 6,7,8 or 9 tooth pinion whitch is not as effective as the slightly bigger pinions.
A 1:70 gearing would, in my opinion,be better suited to the wheels which is on the HBX crawler.
But with the engines we can get these days the high gearing is not a disaster, but it limits the motor choises.
Otherwise, this problem could be settled with a reduction gearbox if there is room for it
For the nerds who like numbers
Motor pinion: 10T 32dp.
Spur 1: 48h 32dp, 6mm wide - 15t module 1
Spur 2: 39t module 1 wide 7mm - 15t module 1
Diff gear: 50t module 1, 10mm wide
Total gearing 41.6
In the spool, which also works ok, there is something which I am not so sure.
The way the two "Outdrivers" is screwed on, I am not happy with.
A split screw is screwed in the "Outdrivers" and through a hole in the shaft. (traxxas stile)
It may perhaps hold, but it certainly rattles alot if it does not have a drop of Loctite
It is indeed unfortunate, ´cos it is the only thing I can really put a finger on in the whole crawler.
So I hope that they will make a "tune spool" for this car.
Something else is it with the Hex, it is an old and good system, a screw in the middle of the shaft meets the split firm which holds the Hex.
It is something I like.
The Hex is 23mm and is made of aluminum, the quality is indisputable.
mounting of the wheels could not be much better for our purposes.
It is something I like.
Rims are made of a hard plastic material with Bead lock ring of a casting metal (probably zinc).
Bead lock rings acts both rigid and solid as the 6 2.5 mm x 8mm screws are fitted with easily keeps the tire fixed ..
There are 18 holes in the rim compared to the 6 holes in the Bead lock rings, as they would come in handy if you strip one of the screw holes in the rim, there are others you can use .
They have a little "cheap" appearance, but does absolutely look rock solid
It is something I like."
There are more Pic´s in the link above
Let me know and I will translate the rest of Saurons test
__________________
http://www.norcc.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1815
"Size: 1/8th (very large)
Length 690mm (140mm by chassis clearance)
Width 175mm (karrosse) / 390mm (utmost of tires)
Wheelbase 520mm (140mm by chassis clearance)
Height 310mm (140mm by chassis clearance)
Chassis clearance adjustable 140-240mm
Ground clearance by diff.huse 65mm
Wheel diameter 185mm, 85mm width
Shaft flexibility around. 90 degrees
Weight: approx. 4.5 kg (not quite sure)
Top speed: 3-4 KMT
2 x crawler engines 100T"
In this small review of the HBX crawler, I will look at what the advertisements do not write anything about.
Here I wiull show what I am happy about, and what I do not like 'bout the HBX crawler.
But I could be wrong, So plz correct me if I am wrong
I would start with the things I think is the most important in a crawler.
The gearbox
When you have removed the bumper and servo from the gearbox and look straight at it, one can immediately see the first bold detail, the downward bent shafts which gives more clearance under the differential.
It is something I like.
Control links, with strong ball-heads screwed on a solid aluminum rod, fine, fine
When you disassemble the steering , you can see the next bold detail.
The axle as the wheels on the sides are 8mm thick and are hardened steel.
Together with the strong dogbone, ball bearings on 16mm x 8mm x 5mm and the stronge steering arms, all of which is borrowed from a 1/8 trucks, it seems as though we can not smash it with the speeds we run with.
the steering is screwed together with screws 4 x 16mm of hardened steel and lock nuts, tubes in plain steel.
This is all something I like.
When the gearcover is removed, you see the first "sloppiness" in the gearbox, the way the engine is screwed on, is OK for such an engine which is in it now.
But change to one of the very strong engines it will certainly need a couple of large washers between the screws and the plastic so as not to tare it apart
But do you put a plate on, it can be quite safe, the gearbox looks both stable and robust enough for a couple of very powerful engines.
The engines it comes with, is of 540 type in a standard house.
They should be 100T (windings) and it sounds credible.
They have a fairly good traction and a good power so as to run for a long time on a battery.
For pure Rock crawling it is very good, but lacks "a little umph" when run on a slippery and loose surface.
The first two gears in the gearbox (pinon and spur 1) is 32dp, all the others are in "Module 1".
It is something I like, although I wish the diff. Tooth wheel was not 10mm, but 15mm wide.
I think it would limit my engine choice for something which is only 4 times stronger than is necessary for this car.
But one thing I am not happy about is that after my calculations, only a totalgearing of
1:41.6, which I think are too high.
And since there are already a 10 tooth pinion on the motor, there are not many opportunities to gear down, unless you use 6,7,8 or 9 tooth pinion whitch is not as effective as the slightly bigger pinions.
A 1:70 gearing would, in my opinion,be better suited to the wheels which is on the HBX crawler.
But with the engines we can get these days the high gearing is not a disaster, but it limits the motor choises.
Otherwise, this problem could be settled with a reduction gearbox if there is room for it
For the nerds who like numbers
Motor pinion: 10T 32dp.
Spur 1: 48h 32dp, 6mm wide - 15t module 1
Spur 2: 39t module 1 wide 7mm - 15t module 1
Diff gear: 50t module 1, 10mm wide
Total gearing 41.6
In the spool, which also works ok, there is something which I am not so sure.
The way the two "Outdrivers" is screwed on, I am not happy with.
A split screw is screwed in the "Outdrivers" and through a hole in the shaft. (traxxas stile)
It may perhaps hold, but it certainly rattles alot if it does not have a drop of Loctite
It is indeed unfortunate, ´cos it is the only thing I can really put a finger on in the whole crawler.
So I hope that they will make a "tune spool" for this car.
Something else is it with the Hex, it is an old and good system, a screw in the middle of the shaft meets the split firm which holds the Hex.
It is something I like.
The Hex is 23mm and is made of aluminum, the quality is indisputable.
mounting of the wheels could not be much better for our purposes.
It is something I like.
Rims are made of a hard plastic material with Bead lock ring of a casting metal (probably zinc).
Bead lock rings acts both rigid and solid as the 6 2.5 mm x 8mm screws are fitted with easily keeps the tire fixed ..
There are 18 holes in the rim compared to the 6 holes in the Bead lock rings, as they would come in handy if you strip one of the screw holes in the rim, there are others you can use .
They have a little "cheap" appearance, but does absolutely look rock solid
It is something I like."
There are more Pic´s in the link above
Let me know and I will translate the rest of Saurons test
__________________
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Marinette, WI
Posts: 104
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: HBX outlaw crawler Help
I have seen a few of that style crawler lately. I don't see why the parts wouldn't fit. Last I checked quite a few of their parts were on back order but haven't looked in awhile. I have heard that it is a pretty good truck, no it's not a $1000 comp rig. My wheely king was all plastic when I got it but who leaves their stuff stock?
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Holland,
MI
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: HBX outlaw crawler Help
thanks for the info guys. The rig I am getting is not coming with a ESC , need other servo has only 1, needs radio, and 1 hex. Any suggestions on the ESC would the EVX 14.4 work? I don't mean to sound stupid but I just got back into rc stuff about 6 months ago. I am use to the mechanical speed control lol . Any Ideas on what to use esc wise and battery wise. I mainly got the speed control so I can start building my clod. But I can wait on that project.