I happen to have some rip-stop nylon lying around, and was wondering if there are any plans for making sails available on the internet, as i want to experiment with this. Anyone know where I can get a design, or how to make my own design?

Thanks

Hello Maylasianflyer:

Rip Stop tends to sag a lot and very difficult to get to hold a shape. I made and tried a set on a 50/500 boat and had to go back to regular light sail material.
If you find a source of light weight polyester let me know.

3dbob in the Mountains of North Carolina

3dbob37n,

When in doubt, fly a kite

Try www.kitebuilder.com, they have polyester, dacron, nylon in many different density ratings

ANyone can help out with plans for a sail?? in Particular for the the kyosho seawind

Thanks for the information Maylasianflyer. Will contac them.
Building a new suit of sails for my 50/500 will be a nice winter project when the snow starts hitting this December in the Moutains here in North Carolina. The 50/500 refers to the Marblehead class and was 50" long and had 500 square inches of sail. Any hull design desired. Never made sails for the smaller boats but will try and give you some guidance.
The luff of the main should form an elongated S curve with the maximum part of the S at about 1/3rd the way up and the rest gently curving back to the luff. This is where your airfoil shape comes from and also allows the head to flatten out. You can experiment to find the right amount of maximum S by using the thin double sided tape to stick the hem together temporarily and once it looks good on the boat, you can stitch the hem. If you are using battens you can add roach to the leach. S maximum to start might be 1/4" but you'll have to play with this to get the right amount to give you the right shape. Use a soldering iron with the tip ground down to a knife edge to cut the material so that it won't fray at the edges.
Generally, the same would apply to the jib. However, if you are using rip-stop, you may want much less S curve in the sails because that stuff is naturally baggy. When you hem the luff, put some cotton cord into the seam unless the sail is stuffed in a groove in the mast like some are.
Hope this will help you get started but be prepared to do it over a few times to get it right.

3dbob

I have some sailcut files for the seawind, sails were then made (not by me) with trispi40
If you need them mail me!

so far, i had Walrus. TWRs and now using CarrSails...
making sails is easy, but making good sails is VERY hard...I let the pro do that
my 0.2 yen

Rip stop nylon does not sag, if you have a nylon jacket try to stretch it. Rip stop nylon comes in different weights. It is good for heavy wind and sport sails. See my Talon II build for more information.

Don M.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3247981/tm.htm

Thanks guys, I basically just want to experiment and fill up my time as I have had to slow down after having a heart attack. The seawind is my first sailboat, and am enjoying it very much, and thought that as I already have the material, it will be fun to experiment with. I appreciate your suggestions and help

Thanks again

Maylasianflyer,
Check this site for more sailmaking info.
http://www.myrc.org/

Don, thank you

http://www.onemetre.net/Technicl/Sailmake/Sailmake.htm

Wismer, thanks again, your help has been great

Hi
I use 70 micron Drafting film from a Drawing & Drafting supplier here in Australia to make my racing sails. It's ideal and holds a good shape. The only catch is that it creases very easily if you treat it roughly. Most of the racing boats here in Australia use it in varying grades. For beginners making sails, a good idea (I think) is to borrow a set or use one you may have and trace the panels with the drafting film, then cut them out leaving a bit to spare on the leach and at the bottom to allow for adjusting size if your joins aren't perfect. You then use double sided mylar tape and stick it on one side then curve the other pannel to fit and have the edge of the film level with the edge of the tape. Then lay the joined film over the original sail and mark where the edges should be and cut it with your hobby knife of scalpel. Sticky back dacron is ideal for the reinforcing at the corners. Once you've made some this way, you'll get the idea of how to draw up your own. (Just a suggestion-it worked for me)
Jason

I have some Egyptian cotton sail material. I will keep it as a souvenir and send the sailplan to a professional sailmaker because the boat they will be for has a gaff rigged main and a loose footed jib. I carries a lot of sail so I want it right. They will not be nylon.

Hi
Drafting maylar will hold its shape much better then sail maylar after cutting and taped on a sail block. Probly wouldn't need to attach battens. I have a question as to what I could use for Luff Rings. Maybe bend some out of thin bar or wire? Anyone else come up with creative solutions for that?

Some of the guys here substituted carbon rods for the string that runs through the mainsail (that inserts into the mast). Maybe attaching that to the edge of your sail may be a solution?

I have had success on several of my boats using fishing line to tie the sails to the mast. After tying a knot just go ahead and drop some super glue on the knot so it won't come out. I have also used strapping tape on the leading edge of the sail to keep it from stretching. After adding the tape on the edge come back and cut small holes with a small nail head, then add the fishing line. For fishing line try Triline for bending on the mast and for sheeting lines.

Rick

BEST RESULTS! We are very happy with weed string trimmer line with tape. cabon 2mm rod cannot be rolled up. 505 material vacuumed heated for camber with 4mm wide Dacron tape as batons stiff. 9ft sails. ( I have a vintage 64" J hull mold I'm developing right now. ballast keel, deck, mast, sails, expected to be offered as a 3/4 complete kit at around one thousand delivered. [email protected]