andrew k

hi dick, can you please forward the website of the guy that makes the miniture harken gear...in regards to the rear curved beam, i would like to put one on purely for looks, not actually working, however know that i think about a working one it actually sounds like a good idea,
you can tesion the mainsheet to the desired amount and sheet in only on the traveller....
regards
andrew

andrew k

hey guys, does anyone out there know where i can get my hands on a set of plans for the team phillips catamran...for those who dont remember,it was the cat which the bow broke off on ...
anyway,if you know anything or even have any similar plans please let me know as i am thinking about building one...
cheers
andrew

andrew k

hey here are the photos i found of the boat...
cheers

Idealist

Here ist the link to the newest german Mini40 Trimaran:

http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showthread.php?t=81113

Ready-to-sail-weight:2.5 kg
Sails on leewardfloat with ease - on it's first day out. -

Laminated with one layer of 160gr. carbon twill and two layers of 80gr. glass cloth. -
Similarities of hullshapes between my 2 M 'FONCIA' and this german boat should be obvious.

Dick L.

Andrew - here is link: [link=http://hardware.scalemodelco.com/]Model Marine Corporation[/link]

Owner is Dean Derusa who is heavy into models and also pushing the 1:10 scale here in US His business is located in upper penninsula of Michigan near Wisconsin border. If you correspond, please let him know I referenced you to him.

Regards.

Dick L.

Andrew - while not a true "Phillips hull, you could use the WATER RESIST 2Meter lines and modify the bows slightly. Plans/lines are free by email from Jean Margail. Here is link to his web pages, where you can click on his email address. [link=http://water.resist.free.fr/Anglais/Info.htm]WATER RESIST web site[/link]

andrew k

hey dick,,,
hows things...
just a quick question....somewhere on one of the forums i have seen a modified winch that they are using on rc boats to raise and lower assymetrical kites... the photos i saw where taken with the winch apart so you could see the workings, it was a home built one,,,do you have any idea or have you seen such a winch...just thinking about putting a kite on the tri...
regards
andrew

Dick L.

Rain - rain and more rain. Sun is out today, leaves are coming off trees, grass needs to be cut - nice fall day, but all week we had rain at least once per day. Depressing.....this means snow is just around the corner. [:'(]

There is a fellow that goes by a forum name of "Heaven Can Wait" who posted as part of the 1:10 scale thread on another forum and shows his location as being Lake Macquarie, Australia who built a large sportboat model and modfied forward cabin top to have a chute launcher. Had a lot of pics on Sailing Anarchy (I know, I know) but here is the starting link post - and you can go on from there. You can click on his name in the forum pages and send him an email or PM for more info.

[link=http://www.sailinganarchy.com/forums/index.php?s=&showtopic=46343&view=findpost&p=997921]Starting Post for r/c Spinnakers[/link]

There is also a fellow here in the US (Rich Matt) who has done a spinnaker for his big AC class yacht that I can get you his email address for questions too. He lives in Chicago.

Good luck !

Dick L.

Just curious - with winter just around the corner - you guys from the UK have been really quiet. Does it mean the 1 Meter monohull convesions are working out to your liking and performance expectations? Just wondering how the tests and trials went.

[8D]

tricat

Hi dickl,Nope winter does not visit us much these days here, it used to.All we seem to get in winter is no snow, flat calms with near freezing temperatures,or gales where you sail your boats[yachts without sails]down hill ??The water has blown to the end of the lake .Notice I said nearly freezing,that's to stop us ice yachting!!!!!!?.The multis are still going well[Not turning over?!]that's done it!!still working on how to get the storm rig more flexible in the top without cutting the sail area down ie reducing the roach.The weather is very calm just lately so have no real way of testing it.So we go chasing what wind we can, whilst the 1M sit very still on the water for minutes on end.Sometimes all it needs is a few paddles of the rudder to get moving,that is enough to get the air speed up over the sails working, and off we go.We always jibe round so as not to lose too much speed?!!!To see a multihull on a glass top lake doing 2-3mph as you will know is great to watch.Just a thought Dick,as we use dumpy rigs[roughly 42" high for top rig]and appear stable, next year I hope to see if can carry even more in safety.At the moment my top rig is approx.970sq ins.but I suspect that parts of the rig and Xbeams will need beefing up,this may bring up stability problems again,as we rely on the flexing to ease the pressure on the lee float.Ho hum role on summer Regards Tricat

Midget

hay guys.
Just build the first hull for my cat,
Here are some pics of how she is so far, I still have to sand it down a bit and add one more
layer of fiber glass.
than ill start making the second hull.

Multiman

Hi Andrew K.

I am surprised anyone would want to have anything to do with one of the most publisized FAILURES of a Catamaran in recent years!!

When answering any mail on this website, it asks that we 'resist the urge to degrade, insult or embarrass someone in your post' ! As others have found out, I am someone who believes in speaking his mind, ESPECIALLY when someone in inaccurate or falsely misleading, totally inept of designing a model or fullsize when it comes to Multihulls!!

I have built both Full size and models and designed some, but that does not make 'the' expert by any means. However, when a MONOHULL designer, and one of some distinction in Racing Monhulls, then tries to design a Catamaran without taking any consideration of what is involved, especially structurally, then it does not surprise anyone when he gets it wrong!! The problem was HOW he got it wrong! Televised interviews showing to one and all about how an EGG was the strongest shape and best for weight. He was in fact right on what he says.

THE most glaring and obvious clue is an EGG is a 3 Dimensional object and gets it's strength from that. So why therefore design a Cat with that in mind 2 Dimensionally ??? WHY did he design and build the attachments of the beams in that way, when the WHOLE industry knows you radiate out your lamination many feet forwards and aft, and around in 360 degrees. He choose to ignore that fact, and the world watches with hilarity when the bows fall off !!

Whilst this may indeed be funny, in that single, most stupid, totally illogical and wholly irresponsible action, he wiped the face of British Multihull building off the map !!! As I used to be part of that Industry, I was and still am exceeding angry that this man calls himself a designer !! It obviously shows he has no education when it comes to Structural uses of the materials he was using either !!

I just hope Andrew K, that your model fairs better than his full sized one did !!! I think as an exact R/C model, you will need to build it to a big scale, as the hulls did not have much buoyancy either!!!

Multiman

Multiman

Andrew K and all,

I was of course referring to TEAM PHILIPS, designed by a certain Mr Thompson, or maybe even Mr Thomson!! Either way a DISGRACE !!!!!!

Love to see him court !!!

Multiman

Midget

Just sanded it down and finished applying a layer of resin.
I was gonna put a another layer of fiber glass but i thinking one layer is enough.

andrew k

hi multiman,
well i think you made your point regarding team phillips, and for the most part i agree...we didnt hear alot of went on with the boat and politics here in australia, other than the fact the bow broke off...
the reason i would like to make one is purely for looks..you have to admit,it is a wild looking boat...how it would have fared against club med and playstation in THE RACE had the bow not broken is anyones guess i reckon...
just out of curiousity,exactly what happened....
cheers
andrew

Dick L.

Hi Guys - just getting back to the F-48/Mini40 construction/completion.

Fill, fair, sand - fill, fair, sand - repeat (numerous times) With a few local guys committed to building, I have a new energy level and reason for time investment.

Photos are of one of the floats (leaning against door) and the other is the starboard half of the main hull.
Float needs glass - main hull needs additional fairing.

andrew k

hey multiman and dick,
rather than make a team phillips boat what about a volvo 40...should be a direct scaledown...the pics look cool and there is some great footage of them on youtube...if only i lived in england....do you reckon there are any plans out there for them...

Midget

Hay guys, just a bit of an update.
today i put a layer of car filler on the left hull.
Than sanded it down.
And tomorrow I will be putting one more layer of
car filler on the hull.

....And Because RCU wont let me upload the pics, ill
have to use photobucket.

andrew k

hey midget, boat looks good....
a little tip though, next time you use filler,try to smooth it out as much as you can or do it in smaller amounts and fill a couple of times...it makes it heaps easier to sand without all the bumps...still it looks good though...keep posting more pictures of your progress...
cheers
andrew

Midget

Yeah, Thanks for the tip.
I tryed to make it as smooth as i can, But this
filler isn't smooth. (even though it says spreads smoothly on the tin).
But i don't mind sanding, It's easy with an electric sander.

Just wighd the boat and it was just over 500grams...Is that to much???

Thanks

Multiman

Hi Andrew K,

I am not exactly sure what the outcome of the farce of Team Philips was, except that while out on some early trials, not just one, ..but BOTH bows came off !! Now that was just in the English Channel, so what did they expect it to do in the Southern Ocean????????

Having then repaired the bows and then decided to instal some transverse Stringers, they then set sail for another Trial in the North Atlantic. Low and behold, the centre Pod began to split and break-up and they had to be rescued !!! See what I mean?? A FARCE!!!!

There was supposed to have been a rescue attempt on the boat, but I never found out what happened after that!!! I think it was left to sink, but it is that that I am not sure off. Either way, an ill conceived idea, ill designed and made, and by a designer who should have stuck to what he knew !! Ie boring Monohulls !!!

Sorry if I come and go on here, but despite my surgeons saying I should no longer work (Since 1991), I have to do something other than dwiddle my thumbs!! Apart from doing up other people's failed boat projects, I am also repairing a full sized Mk I 26' TELSTAR Trimaran for a guy down in Cornwall. I actually made an offer on the boat myself, but because of my previous experience in Multihulls, the present owner wanted me to do the job. I am therefore away for a week at a time. I am also no longer on Broadband following a computer irreversible siezure, but hopefully will be back on Broadband soon.

Have fun!!

Multiman

Dick L.

Andrew - I have a line drawing at work - kind of fuzzy due to enlargement, but it is about 17 inches long (about 43 cm) but only side and top view. My guess is that one could interpolate the stations using those views - but of course it would remain a "best" guess. Being a new class, and mostly first/second generation, actual lines may be hard to come by unless you have a relationship with a specific designer. Maybe the family building the scale multi's posted earlier might have an inside track?

Midget - It might be a tad heavy for a trimaran if you build all three hulls that same way - but if you consider a cat, you can probably work on some weight in other areas. An example is the foam float (photo posted above) that came in at 5 oz. (about 141 gr) but without glass. I am hoping I can keep it under 12-14 oz. total weight when done. I was a bit concerned with the initial layup when you used the glass-mat, plus a glass cloth layer over. I (personal opinion) think you could easily get away with no more than 2 layers of 4 0z. cloth - but suspect even that is too heavy for "Multiman" as he has a tendency to build lighter yet. A few German boats are being built with a goal of 2-3 kg. as a target weight - ready to sail.

I didn't post earlier, since it looked like you were well into the process and probably couldn't back up. If you were going for a tri - can you use that hull as your main hull and lighten up on the floats? Just a thought - and I echo Andrew's comment about thinner and smoother filler. A lot of thin layers and smoothed with an old credit card will ave you a lot of material time, sandpaper and effort. Just keep building up and sanding off till you are satisfied with the surface.

Multiman - hurry back !

The (added) attached photo is an update of floats and main hull (2 part) during fairing phase of build. Float on right is done being shaped and is ready for glass. the two half-hulls in middle are the main hull and have been glassed and are getting their last coats of fairing prior to a final clear coat of resin, and then primer. The float on left has been rough shaped and while not easily visible in photo it has been patched up in low spots (or in dings) with fairing mix and is ready to be sanded. Just a note for MIDGET - I have used wall board joint compound ultra-lite stuff for fill. While it is able to be removed by water, once I am all done with the sanding - it gets a thin coat of clear resin which seals it from water. The floats will have foam left in - so there, the compound is covered by a layer of light weight glass as well as resin - again protecting it from water. The stuff works easily, and sands well. It can be built up - but requires thin layers - NOT one heavy one or it will shrink and leave cracks. I found it much easier to sand than some of the commercial grade marine and epoxy based fairing compounds. As long as you eventually shield it "COMPLETELY" from water, I haven't found any problems in using it for low spots.

Midget

Your a Life Saver Dick L.
Out of all the times ive used an old credit card to clean my fish tank,
Not once have i though to use it to spred filler.
But now i just have to short out the 200grams my hull just put on[&:]

Thanks again

Dick L.

Andrew & All -

Best I can provide easily and quickly. I see it did have some cross sections, so you should be able to loft a few others from the front, top and side views. [&:]

I also have available in MS Word (doc) format or Adobe (PDF) format if that is preferable.


Midget - that's what we are all here for - help and info ! You are more than welcome.

Dick L.

Well - tonight the first hull skin came off the port side, main hull foam plug. After a bit of coaxing, and some help with a thin, flat stick the "skin" reluctantly let go of the male foam plug which had been covered with plastic packaging tape for release. It still took a bit of work but was finally in my hands - along with a couple of glass cuts on fingers suffered in the removal process.

Multiman - after a series of traded correspondence, convinced me the strength of a hull was in it's final shape and not necessarily in the number of glass layers. My mind agreed with him - but my heart said "better add another layer to be safe". Well, this was my first opportunity to test his theory/view, so I followed his (and my mind's) instructions. The skin consists of only one layer of epoxy/glass of 4 oz. Weight (about 113 gr. for you metric folks). Boy was that hull able to "oil can"! After a single layer of glass, fairing was added to any low spots along the sides. A small piece of wood will serve as a glued in keel/deck "locator" so both hull half sections can be aligned and glued together and then bulkheads will be added from glass sided 3/4 inch foam (about 19 mm). These will be located to accept the deck mounting of the cross beams. I probably will build the daggerboard trunk and the radio board from light ply - or carbon fiber. Also I need to install the rudder and arrange any required deck fitting hard points. In all due respect to Multiman - I will probably lay in some additional layers of glass in areas around bulkheads, daggerboard trunk and rudder assembly - as well as along the deck where sheets exit and beams attach. It may eventually turn out stiff and strong like Multiman said - but damn it is "scary" flexible right now. In the photos, you can see the skin (with light fairing) next to the tape covered foam plug. I'll be taking it in to work to get weight of both plug and skin and then just the skin only. With foam floats being planned to be left inside and so light in weight, I'm curious just how light only the skin is - knowing of course some weight will be added back in.

If this completes as I hope it will, the main hull will be hollow and floats will be glass covered foam. I am still debating if I should keel step my mast in a series of tubes so I can shift fore/aft - or if I should deck step the mast on an upside-down "T" shaped rail with mast base slotted and pinned to the rail. Right now I have a series of very high aspect ration "M" Class sails - but have fabric to build my own of various sizes - mostly smaller suits for high wind days. Actually the M sails look out of place on the trimaran because they are so skinny and tall. Also need to build a small storm suit which will be a jib attached about 5/8 up the mast and with a small main. Want to keep it low aspect ratio to be able to control in heavier winds.

Photos show tape covered foam plug, and removed "hull skin" - trust me the skin is back on the plug for storage until it is time to glue both half hulls together. [sm=shades_smile.gif]