1/4 Scale Control Cable Hardware Source
#3
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (1)
Proctor doesn't have anything close. I looked at Mick Reeves thinking he surely will have something, nothing. The smallest shackles and thimbles that I found on McMaster Carr are to large. DuBro-no, Sig-no. I may end up putting the cable directly into the horn and crimping it in place.
#5

My Feedback: (2)
There is also a place in FL called Small Parts, www.smallparts.com is the link, I think. They specialize in very small fasteners. I don't know if they'll have the other hardware that you're looking for. Just a thought...
Bob
Bob
#6
Proctor didnt have anything close? I'm using these on my cub ailerons. Got them at an estate sale awhile back.
http://www.proctor-enterprises.com/p...rnbuckle-w.jpg
Edwin
http://www.proctor-enterprises.com/p...rnbuckle-w.jpg
Edwin
#8
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (1)
Edwin, thanks for the reference photo. I used to work on Cubs waaaaaaaaaaaay back in the 50's but I certainly didn't remember how the aileron or rudder cables attach to the horns. I was of the opinion that they used a schackle at the horn but your photo shows a forked end turnbuckle direct to the horn. That clears up a lot of issues. Thanks for the help. Now all I have to do is find fork end turnbuckles or just cheat and bolt a standard end turnbuckle direct to the side of the horn.
And there they are right on the Proctor turnbuckle page !!!
And there they are right on the Proctor turnbuckle page !!!
#9
I'm gonna do the cheat procedure. This project is for trying out things I've never done before, like the aileron pull-pull setup. I'm putting vinyl graphics on today over koverall painted with warbirdcolors paint. I was unsure how it would stick to fabric but things look promising so far. It will still need a clear coat on top. My last attempt at painting insignia's on my Ziroli PT-17 turned into a disaster. This project is a NE-1, tri-color Navy cub.
Edwin
Edwin
#12
Senior Member
Some of the scale boat suppliers have fittings you may be able to use. I made my own shackles by hammering flats on a short segments of cloths hangar wire, bending and drilling. Works a treat!
#13
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (1)
ARUP, Doc and Joe, I have some of the small thimbles from McMaster Carr. I thought they would be appropriate for my 1/4 scale Tiger Moth but they are more for 1/3 scale. For crimps I use fishing line crimps and crimp them with a pair of electrical wire connector crimping pliers. I will look at the scale boating sites for fittings also. Proctor's prices are way out of line but if I'm in a pinch they will do.
Thanks for all the help.
Thanks for all the help.
#14

My Feedback: (2)
Hi Edwin,
I'd be especially interested in your Navy NE-1 project. I'm curious about the scheme you're going to use. I bought a Cub ARF just for fun, and after it arrived I decided to change the markings to a Cub-yellow NE-1 that I found on the internet. It didn't come out too badly considering that I didn't want to get too serious about this particular plane - it was just for banging around. I'm sure that yours is going to be more sophisticated, but I'm interested in what it looks like, nonetheless.
Also, if it helps, I have a few photos of a Cub with closeups of the linkages from a local flying field...
Thanks,
Bob
I'd be especially interested in your Navy NE-1 project. I'm curious about the scheme you're going to use. I bought a Cub ARF just for fun, and after it arrived I decided to change the markings to a Cub-yellow NE-1 that I found on the internet. It didn't come out too badly considering that I didn't want to get too serious about this particular plane - it was just for banging around. I'm sure that yours is going to be more sophisticated, but I'm interested in what it looks like, nonetheless.
Also, if it helps, I have a few photos of a Cub with closeups of the linkages from a local flying field...
Thanks,
Bob
#15
This is the one I'm doing. Its painted in the 3 color base coat and the vinyl decals are installed as of this afternoon. They stick to koverall pretty good. Need to wait for warmer temps to do the clear coat. I didnt do the red boarder on the stars and bars. Its a busa 1/4 scale kit. I'm also doing a busa 1/4 scale L-4. Its just in the bones and hasnt even had its first pass sanding yet.
Edwin
Cub Brother #24
Edit - I didnt see the yellow NE-1 until today when I was verifying decal placement. I also have a busa 1/4 scale civilian cub (bought at a swapmeet) that I might redo as your scheme. I kinda like it.
Edwin
Cub Brother #24
Edit - I didnt see the yellow NE-1 until today when I was verifying decal placement. I also have a busa 1/4 scale civilian cub (bought at a swapmeet) that I might redo as your scheme. I kinda like it.
#16
I saw somebody once use a short length of small diameter brass tube as a cable thimble. The brass tube was simply curved into the teardrop shape of a normal cable thimble, seemed to work really well that way. That might be the way to go for models 1/4 scale or smaller. I agree the McMaster-Carr cable thimbles are at best suitable only for 1/3 scale & I still think they seem a little big.
-Greg
-Greg
#18
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (1)
I've been looking at the DuBro parts and I believe, with some minor modifications, I can take a 4-40 rod end (DuBro no. 302) and adapt it to their turnbuckle (no. 300). The rod end will be reshaped and shortened. Then install a length of 4-40 threaded rod and solder it in the rod end. Finally, thread the assembly into the RH threaded end of the turnbuckle body.
Making thimbles out of brass tubing, as Greg noted, can't be that big of a deal.
Making thimbles out of brass tubing, as Greg noted, can't be that big of a deal.
#19
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Be careful with the crimps, me, I dont use them, I wrap the cable eye with copper wire and solder the splice or joint, much more secure and neater. Dont use plastic coated cable for the cable runs. Cable available from Mc M C but you probably know that if you found the thimbles.
Doc
Doc




