mmiller1

My Feedback: (75)

Hope this is the correct thread. I just received my Warbird Colors for a TF SpitMKIX that I am finishing. I live in WA state (cold,wet,high humidiy,etc). I was planning on warming up the wing and fuse to room temp. in my small man cave. Then do the painting in my garage (quite cold/damp) and then taking the fuse and wing back into the cave to cure out in 60-65 degrees. I was also planning on using a moisture collector in line with the touchup gun/airbrush. Please chime in if you think the plan of attack should work from a temp/humidity standpoint. The directions for WBC indicate a light tack coat thinned about 50-60%. Let dry and then another light coat, dry and a third "wet" coat. Would that third coat have a tendancy to run being wet? Any hints at techniques would be helpful.
Tim

Tmoth4

My Feedback: (1)

I don't know how cold the area is where you'll be spraying but I have sprayed water-based paints in temps as low as 50 degrees. I always have a hair dryer handy to dry it fast between coats.

Jim

crash bandicoute

hey M&M, i live just down the road from you in orting. i just sprayed a cub in the garage with an HVLP gun and glidden 2K exterior latex paint a couple weeks ago (50 something degrees), and had no problems at all with any of the temp/hummidity questions you asked. i think the temp for painting is actually better a little lower so you don't have a problem with the paint drying before it actually contacts the surface. thus, of course, you want the paint to be wet on all parts of the application. the 'wet' step of your application refers to a little thicker spray/coat of your paint. the first couple of coats are going to be thin just to get some color down in an even application. the wet coat will be a little thicker because it's going to flow out on it's own as it dries and cures, getting rid of the brush marks or spray spittle. but the temp and humidity is actually better here for painting than say in a dryer/warmer climate. take into account i used latex paint and the WBC paint is different, but you will have to play with each type/brand/color of paint every time something in the mix changes, until you figure it out. just go easy...i know that stuff is expensive. let me know how it works for you and how you like them, too. i'm looking at their paint and nelson hobby paints for my P-51. WBC is having issues with manufacturers right now.

PirateKevin

Spraying in a warmed up area then taking it inside works fine.
The nice thing about WBC is if you mess up you can wipe it off with wet rags and start over, it's a horrifying thing to have to do but not the end of the world.
Take your time, it's good paint and water clean up, no bad fumes
Kevin

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Be very careful with that "wet coat" I've found that more light coats is better than the wet coat. The wet coat will run on sloped surfaces so if your wing is laying flat and you get the coat "glossy" it should be fine.
Sam

Canuck1

Tim

That's how I paint all my planes. Being that building season is during the winter months, and we do get winter up here, I do the same thing.
Fire up the heat in the garage, no paint fumes etc in the house. Do my painting, then after it has some time to set up, bring it into the house to dry and cure.
I usually also make sure that everything is ready so it is a quick trip to the basement, no obstructions etc.

Craig

Mustang51

My Feedback: (25)

WORST crap I ever used. Didn't cover. Ran no matter how light of a coat I sprayed(HPLV). Do yourself a favor. Go get some of the new Behr paint and primer in one. This stuff is GREAT! Used it on my GT Dr1. ONE COAT. Didn't need to thin in order to spray. I will never use anything else...ever.
-M51

mmiller1

My Feedback: (75)

thanks to all who chimed in. It went from soup to nuts. Seeing that I already have the WBC, is am going to use it. I will report back as to how successful the process went.
I kind of agree that humidity may not be a factor.......after all the WBC is water base. I am a fan of tack coats for the most part. I was a bit suspicious about the "wet coat" final spray as well. I can just picture a nice run on the side of the fuse. My plan is to use some 0000 steel wool after the final spray to take down any rough spots and to help with "weathering". I have made up a sample panel to do as a first step just to make sure I can count on decent results. I will post here after I am done with some pics.
Tim

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

I am in Vancouver WA. and that is exactly how I paint my planes. I have been using latex paint that I spray in the colder garage and then let them dry in my heated shop. I am applying real light coats and allowing about 30 minutes between coats. The Home Depot now sells those small containers of paint which is great in that you only have to buy small ammounts. They also have the color matching system which I have used a few times and they usually get it real close. Let us know how the War Bird Colors work out and Good Luck, Dave

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

One other comment about WBC. The paint likes a tooth to adhere to. Having a primer finish thats super smooth is the wrong way to go. Sand that coat with no more than 320 and even better if you can get away witn 240.

If the paints runs etc. you might have to thin a consistancy. Adjust the paint such that it flows from your spray equipment and no more. Three coats should be sufficient. I find the coverage decent. Yellow is always the exception!

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

I love the stuff and am very happy with the results on my Harvard. I am in Arizona and sprayed when it was quite warm and dry so can't comment on using it in your weather conditions. However, it definitely has to be sprayed on in multiple light coats with the first being very dry if you don't want it, or subsequent coats, to run. I used three coats with the last one being wetted out and did not have any runs in the paint.

mmiller1

My Feedback: (75)

Thanks again, guys. David, what was the brand at HD......last time I was there I believe I only saw the larger cans. Were you doing warbird colors? If so, do you recall what colors you used? Also....Chad, we have been in e-mail exchange a few times. I have your article: Paint Your Wagon. Very helpful in helping to understand the details of painting your AT-6 (Harvard as it is). I am looking forward to trying some of your weathering techniques. Thanks again, gents!
Tim

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

The cans at the Home Depot are called sample cans. They are designed for the consumer to take them home and see if the color will work at a small cost. At my Home Depot they are on the paint counter where they mix the paint. You just select the color, they mix it and and I think for about 4 dollars you are out the door. They are perfect when you just need a little bit of one color. Chad that is a great looking plane. How bout some details on it. Thanks Dave

geezeraviation

My Feedback: (3)

One more happy user of latex from HD. The brand name is Behr, get the exterior as its more UV stable.I have painted models with Nelsons and I think its the same as WBC, water based polyurethane. It requires a very light touch if its a light color darker colors go down easier but the last big airplane I painted a 1/3 N 28 I did with latex from the Depot and I'll never use anything else. Take a color sample in with you and they'll computer match it and sell you an 8oz sample tin for about 4 bucks, its almost free. I painted it in my shop with an HVLP touch up gun from Harbour Freight and just threw a few old bed sheets around, the smell is same as painting the bedroom with a roller and theres little overspray. Buy a bottle of stuff called Flotril. Orange bottle Qt size and add it to your paint following the instructions on the bottle. Use distilled water for thinner and experiment for spray quality, different colors will thin differently.
Try it you'll like it.
Doc

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Let's not forget the Latex will need some sort of clear coat to be fuel proof if you are using a glow motor. Not so with the Warbird Colors as long as you use the cross linker. (Wonder if the cross linker would work for Latex?)

Chad Veich

My Feedback: (60)

Thanks for the kind words Dave. It is the old Midwest kit, 84 inches span, about 16 pounds, and powered with a OS 1.60 two stroke. Flies more like a pattern ship than a T-6 and is a great all around sport warbird. Too bad Midwest is now defunct and the kit is no longer available.

Tmoth4

My Feedback: (1)

The small samples of Behr you get at Home Depot are available only in interior paints. I always use exterior satin but interior should work OK if you put a clear coat on. It will help protect the color coat.

Jim

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

I was thinking the same thing, WBC say you have to use a "crosslinker" to make it Glow Fuel Resistant. Anyone know where to get just the bonding additive? I did some googling, but came up with more questions than answers.

p.s.
Lowes has those sample sizes too,, they come in Latex "Satin" finish

abufletcher

Is WarbirdColors the same formulation as Nelson's paints? I've always assumed that it was. I've been told that Nelson's is a "water-based polyurethane" and yes you need the cross-linker for it to be fuel-proof. I've used Nelson's on all my models and as far as I'm concerned it IS fuel-proof and not just fuel resistant. The Nelson's paint is almost like "rubberizing" the model. And that means that I wouldn't want sand the finished paint (or clearcoat). I think Chad (in his Flying Scale Models article) has said that the Warbirdcolors are a bit harder and can be sanded for weathering effects.

geezeraviation

My Feedback: (3)

I will admit that Nelsons paint once on and cured seems resistant to anything, acetone doesnt harm it nor MEK or any opther chemical in my inventory, Jerry actually recommended using MEK to "buff "it out. Its very tough but I never considered it rubbery.
Doc

TFF

http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/...opcoat-c29.htm is what both paints are based on. You are not going to get custom colors; that is where WBC and Nelson comes in using the base colors to mix and repackage to modeler sizes.

TFF

Actually it looks like they have 4 oz sizes

abufletcher

That's good to know, TTF! So is their Clear Satin the same as what Nelson's sells as "Flat Clear?" I see that a gallon would be $154 (plus shipping). That's still pricey, but since I'll probably use in on every model I'll ever build, it might not be bad.

Wolperdinger

My Feedback: (4)

Really? I' ve used it before and absolutely love it! I'm currently building a 1/5 scale Bf-109 and will most definatly useWarbirds Color again. I already have the elevator covered and painted, as I wanted to do some test with some pinking tape. Great paint, and no complaints at all. Sprays well, drys well, and covered well. I use windshield washer fluid to think it out. I think the detergent helps it flow out. I'm not saying that the Behr solution is better or worse, but I think it's harsh to call WBC the "Worst Crap". Different brands of paint can handle very differently. It usually takes a bit of experimenting and practise with any new paint to get the feel of it.

Mustang51

My Feedback: (25)

Like I said... Didn't cover, and "ran" no matter how thin I applied it. Did 5 lite coats and was not covering. Can was mixed well and was NOT thinned.