ProfLooney

guys a little update here. I have been drawing the landing gear up for my 1/6th scale HE-111 so that I can make sure Ihave working gear drawings and so Ihave something Ican put on the plane so when I start working on wing and nacelle framing. Dave sent me a copy of his but there were a few snags in just enlarging the assy so I am using his as reference and drawing up mine from scratch. Hope to have pics later tonight.

Ialso will be doing the gear for the 335 soon too so I can go further on those drawings to verify everything before I start getting parts cut.

ProfLooney

heya guys well today am working on the DO-335 all day and I set it up if ya want to pop in and see how my cad is going you can just click on this link to watch my screen secure.join.me/559-439-695

ProfLooney

ok well this afternoon Iwas trying to come up with a nice jig for framing the fuse. The parts for the jig will come with the kit. here are some screenshots. the main fuse crutch sits on top of the jig and there are slots for the formers which will help set the vertical alignment and the fuse crutch will set the horizonal alignment. the fuse can be framed as you see it now in this crutch plus sheet the top section and also do detailing and other stuff all while it is in this crutch.

Iadded some stringers last night but the rear bottom stringers wont be able to be added until after the fuse is flipped over to finish the bottom half

ProfLooney

As I assemble the rest of the plane I will be watching and adjusting if necessary the jig to ensure as much of the plane as possible can be done in the jig.

ProfLooney

I decided to mess around and do a render of the assy

R8893

My Feedback: (20)

Why all the cutouts in the bottom of the fixture? Seems like a waste of laser time.
Chuck

ProfLooney

well they dont look it but they are actually pretty good size. the crossmembers are notched for the crutch. you could ca a balsa strip on top which locks the crutch from falling out. if you need to get underneath for some reason ie threading tubing wires etc. the cutouts allow you at least some acess with needlenose pliers or whatever whithout a person having to take the fuse out of the jig.

I left them solid at first then got to looking and thinking of ppl wanting to run stuff and figured add some acess points at least for pliers without cutting too much out

R8893

My Feedback: (20)

Thanks, makes sense.
Chuck

abufletcher

When the jig starts being more extensive (and using more wood) than the fuselage, too me that's just barking up the wrong tree...and a classic example of the 3D puzzles that CAD designing seems to encourage. Others may disagree.

ProfLooney

well had 2 choices Abu to do top / bottom clamshell or this way. The reason Iam doing it this way and the extensive jig is because with it in the Jig the top vertical fin, both Horizontal fins, and quite Possibly the Wings can all be set while it is in the jig. This means incidences and levelness is totally easier to do and you can have an almost perfect setup.

Remember guys not everyone can build as easily as we do. some of us have built so many planes we can do it in our sleep. so this makes it almost idiotproof for framing up this plane. Plus it is not my design Iam just test fitting and tweaking things making sure all parts fit, and Iwas told to come up with an effective jig that will make it so anyone can easily build this plane. Plus the way the jig is those that build on dining room tanble or other places where the model cant stay constanbtly while building, then they can just pick up the jig at the end of the building session and put it away until the next building session.

See it may not sound logical to have that extensive of a jig but there is a reason to my madness.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Makes sense to me. I have seen companies do things like this, and in order to save the modeler money, they offered a cash back/store credit incentive for those who returned useable jigs back to the kit manufacturer. Kinda like what some auto parts stores do with tool rentals.

So you pay whatever is costs for the jig. If you want to keep it, you can. If not, when you are done with it, you return it; as long as it is still useable and not damaged you get a refund for the cost of the jig.

Then again, if the jig only costs $20-25 its not really worth it

ProfLooney

yea Icould cut the bottom pieces out but Ididnt want to have the jig offset front to back and get trapezoid. ppl have to remember when designing or selling kits you want to cover anyone that builds. not do like some designers with little instructions and weird techniques figuring only experienced builders build their kits. they losing out on a lot of customers that way

WacoNut

Personally I like the jig,

AMR supplies wing jigs for all their kits and you would really have to try hard to screw up a wing panel. I framed up a Ziroli P-40 and spent a good deal of $$ and time building a jig for the fuse. An hour or two of assembly of jigs is time well spent to assure a straight airframe.
Later!!
Anthony

abufletcher

Well, if I ever were to do a WWII model, it would probably have to be idiot proof! It's almost like my WWI building skills wouldn't apply at all.

ProfLooney

lol well a wing is a wing is a wing so the wing will be easy for ya and the stab and vert fin will be lil dif depending on the plane your doing but a lot of the axis powers planes fuses frame up similar to WWII.

Like the Roland DVI Idesigned the Roland CII, and the Pfalz DXII, and Pfalz Triplane they all standard WWII style framing

In case you havent seen the link ABUHeres a video of my ROland CII Walfische Design during first engine runs I want to do the DII fighter version one of these days www.youtube.com/watch