Paintable fabric covering question
#1
Thread Starter
Paintable fabric covering question
What type of paintable fabric covering (for control surfaces) are you using and where do you buy it? I'm not interested in Monocoat and similar plastic-type products. Starting a build of the Spitfire below after being out of airplanes for a few years.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Probably the #1 choice is Solartex (for easy), followed by Koverall (which needs the weave filled with either dope or polycrylic). Both are heat-shrink. Warning: Koverall can crush and warp delicate structures.
#4
Thread Starter
I appreciate the feedback, I'll check out each of these suggestions and let you know what I chose. Since it's only for control surfaces I don't want to buy a whole lot of products needed to apply the covering...
Dope over polyester sems easy and cheap, but it's been a really, really long time since I used any dope. It seems to me I just brushed on as many coats as I needed, is that right? However dope over polyester sounds heavy, since building a Spitfire any extra tail weight is a real problem...
Dope over polyester sems easy and cheap, but it's been a really, really long time since I used any dope. It seems to me I just brushed on as many coats as I needed, is that right? However dope over polyester sounds heavy, since building a Spitfire any extra tail weight is a real problem...
#8
I appreciate the feedback, I'll check out each of these suggestions and let you know what I chose. Since it's only for control surfaces I don't want to buy a whole lot of products needed to apply the covering...
Dope over polyester sems easy and cheap, but it's been a really, really long time since I used any dope. It seems to me I just brushed on as many coats as I needed, is that right? However dope over polyester sounds heavy, since building a Spitfire any extra tail weight is a real problem...
Dope over polyester sems easy and cheap, but it's been a really, really long time since I used any dope. It seems to me I just brushed on as many coats as I needed, is that right? However dope over polyester sounds heavy, since building a Spitfire any extra tail weight is a real problem...
carl
#9
Another possibility for smaller models and for flight surfaces is polyspan. Here's a nice YouTube tutorial on applying it. I've tested it myself and it's very light.
On the other hand, I did a "puncture" test with polyspan vs. solartex vs. koverall and solartex was the clear winner. A pencil tip went right through the polyspan/dope covering (with a loud pop) and also through the koverall. It took considerably more force to break through the solartex.
On the other hand, I did a "puncture" test with polyspan vs. solartex vs. koverall and solartex was the clear winner. A pencil tip went right through the polyspan/dope covering (with a loud pop) and also through the koverall. It took considerably more force to break through the solartex.
Last edited by abufletcher; 12-05-2014 at 05:24 PM.
#12
BTW, I've found that as an alternative to possibly hard to get balsarite or stixit you can just use watered down white glue. Brush it on, let it dry, then when you apply the heat of the iron it reactivates ("melts") the white glue.
Last edited by abufletcher; 12-07-2014 at 03:38 AM.
#15
#16
Have a look at hammerd tips here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...2290028&page=6
It may help you
It may help you
#17
Senior Member
Polyester fabrics with some type of paint (I like to use dope, personally) will be the lightest for a fabric type finish. Solartex is very strong because it has a coating of adhesive (more weight) on one side which binds the fibers together a little more. Be sure to use an adhesive on the structure before putting on the Solartex. It's great stuff but needs a little 'help' in that department (in my experience). Even though you intend using something like this on your control surfaces and some may argue the weight will be negligible one way or the other... just remember... the weight matters when you add everything together!
#18
A square yard of Solartex might weigh somewhat more than a square yard of koverall or other polyester fabric. But you don't have to "fill the weave" when using Solartex. So the question is how does the weight of a square yard of Solartex compare with the weight of a square yard of fabric plus 2-3 coats of nitrate dope or polycrylic (plus the dope or balsarite you have to apply to the frame to stick it on).
#19
A square yard of Solartex might weigh somewhat more than a square yard of koverall or other polyester fabric. But you don't have to "fill the weave" when using Solartex. So the question is how does the weight of a square yard of Solartex compare with the weight of a square yard of fabric plus 2-3 coats of nitrate dope or polycrylic (plus the dope or balsarite you have to apply to the frame to stick it on).
Solartex requires no primer, either. Color coats can be sprayed directly. This eliminates more weight.
#20
Senior Member
Glue is heavier than paint. Dope is very lightweight since the vehicle in which it's pigments are dissolved/ suspended evaporates away. I can't remember the numbers but it is somewhere around 80%? I remember comparing Solartex to some doped fabric and I even weighed it. Unfortunately I don't remember the exact figures but my doped fabric was a 'smidge' lighter. Results may vary. The next time I crash and do a recover I'll definitely re-compare! Let's hope that doesn't happen any time too soon!
#22
Poly-light system for me as well, but if I were going for the lightest, the old dope and silk is hard to pass. Dope the structure a couple of times, scuff with 1500 grit, lay down the silk, spray light mist of water over silk, pull tight with fingers, while wet dope perimeter, allow to dry and dope open bay areas. That is how I was taught long ago when I was messing with my ukies and free flights. Kinda miss the old days...
Bob
Bob
#23
Senior Member
Sensei- tell ya what... I'm going to go the silk and dope route for the tail feathers of my 1/4 scale Franklin 'Eaglet' sailplane that I'm scratch building presently! I just might put silk on the top surface of the fuselage, too!
#25
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I use Stits exclusively and can tell ya it is lighter as a finished product than the silver Solartex, but don't remember the numbers. As was mentioned earlier the only thing left after evaporation is the color. Waconut is currently recovering a 1/3 scale Cub and is going to do a weight test for himself. So when he is done one could find some actual numbers in his thread if so desired.