Hope you experts can help me.
Question 1.
I have just about finished a FG project on a Stafford Comanche 250, 1/6 scale. This was glassed using EZLAM epoxy, thinned 50% with 91% isopropyl alcohol, then filled the glass with water based poly urethane (Min wax); after two coats, I primed it with automotive scratch filler, sanded that all off, for a super smooth finish, smooth as glass, and VERY light. I then did the panel lines, applied a final coat of auto. Primer; and wet sanded that with 600 grit. Now my first problem: I can’t seem to get the sanding grit primmer residue off. I wipe off with a damp cloth and it seems smooth to the touch. After a while it dries and the surface seems/feels like sand paper. I do see primer residue on the surface. Any suggestions on final prep for my painting?

Question 2.

I want to paint this bird with a high gloss paint. I do not want to use Lustercote as it seems like I must use many coats to get a really nice deep finish. I have thought about water based urethane paint such as Nelson. Or a automotive base coat, clear coat process. Please any suggestions--the power plant is a 4C glow engine. I have a painting system, so equipment is not an issue. I am trying to get a beautiful paint job and be LIGHT about it. I don’t want a nice looking flying brick. I have used water based latex paints on my war birds with great success, as long as you let it cure for 3-4 weeks and clear coat it to fuel proof it.
Thanks for all you help.

Bob Masterson
nauticom

Bob, I have never run into the problem you have described but my instinct tells me, as the surface dries out, small pieces of primer material that were worked loose by the sandpaper are being pushed to the surface (as the water dries I mean). If it was my airplane I would next try spraying a coat of primer (may not be practical if you have pulled the tape off the panel lines) and DRY sanding with 600. You may want to follow up with steel wool and a tack cloth.

As far as paint goes, you may want to consider the Stits enamel from F&M Enterprises. I hope this helps and you will let us know how it turns out. I also hope some other folks more experienced than myself will chime in!

4Stroker
Thanks for the post.
Yes, my panel line tape was all done and I was doing a final finish sand prior to doing the raised rivets, when this primmer dust was coming to the surface. I will try a light 600 grit DRY sand and air/tact cloth for wipe down and see is this works. Just wondering how the automotive folks do this issue, as I thought they did a wet sand of the primer before painting.
I will check out the Stits paint for sure.
BobM
nauticom

Bob, you are right, wet sanding the primer is the normal thing to do. You can use prepsol (available from automotive paint stores) to clean your primer. Or you can just clean it more with water. 600 grit is pretty fine for prep work. I don't go over 400 on the primer. The reason for this is that the paint needs something to grip to. So having your primer too smooth can cause problems. There are others that don't go over 320 grit on the primer.
The lightest type of paint out there is dope. But it takes many coats too to achieve the desired results. Automotive type paints give very high gloss finishes, you would need to check with a dealer for details. You want something not too toxic. Some of those type paints need a full respirator to use. Also look up klassKote on the net. Dave Platt recommends this stuff. It's like the old K&B paint, a two part epoxy enamel.
http://klasskote.com/index.html
Good luck.