Basic Primer on All Things Fabric, Dope, Etc, Related
#2
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http://www.conaircraft.com/ Although this is geared towards full size aircraft, the principles are the same for models whether you use silk, coverall, solartex, yadda, yadda.
#3
If you will email me your address at [email protected] I will send you a copied page from the Randolph Dope manual on painting. Just remember that dope (yes, even non-taughtening) shrinks during its entire life. This works great on linen or silk but can be a problem on Solartex or other plastic shrink wraps.
The procedure for fabric is pretty simple: Nitrate dope first (as many coats as necessary to look good which could be 10 or more) Then silver then Butyrate dope. Again, as many coats as it takes to look good.
If you use a polyester fabric, be sure to encapsulate the threads as completely as possible with the Nitrate to get a good bond.
Or go to http://www.stits.com and follow the directions there.
The procedure for fabric is pretty simple: Nitrate dope first (as many coats as necessary to look good which could be 10 or more) Then silver then Butyrate dope. Again, as many coats as it takes to look good.
If you use a polyester fabric, be sure to encapsulate the threads as completely as possible with the Nitrate to get a good bond.
Or go to http://www.stits.com and follow the directions there.
#4

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From: spring valley ,
CA
Hi. If I were you and your just getting into this, then do what Chip Mull asks you to do. I have used Chips line of covering before. Infact I have a 60" J-3 Cub that I covered about 15 years ago. It has been in the raffters most of 12 years. Not a sag wrinkel or released seam anywhere on the plane. No bubbles over covered sheeted areas. This is by far a better covering system than any of the "iron on" coverings out there today. It is very easy to use and will add more strenght than you might imagne to your airframe.
I am covering my 33% Waco YMF-5 with this system. It doesn't add much more weight than iron on coverings and the cost differance is minumal but worth the cost in the long run. And if you happen to tear it or get a hole in it some how it is very easy to repair.
Just my thoughts.
Steve
I am covering my 33% Waco YMF-5 with this system. It doesn't add much more weight than iron on coverings and the cost differance is minumal but worth the cost in the long run. And if you happen to tear it or get a hole in it some how it is very easy to repair.
Just my thoughts.
Steve
#5
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From: Spring Hill,
FL
I've got a page on my site that gives a basic run down of various finishes used for models. It's not in depth (as in how to apply) but just lets you know some of what's popular and lists some advantages and disadvantages to each system. I'm not aware of Chip's system so I can't add anything to that.
[link=http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/construction_materials_for_model_building/finishing_materials.htm]Covering and Finishing Materials for Model Aircraft[/link]
[link=http://www.airfieldmodels.com/information_source/construction_materials_for_model_building/finishing_materials.htm]Covering and Finishing Materials for Model Aircraft[/link]



