I'm in the process of repairing a vintage Sig Liberty Sport biplane, which I know isn't a fine detailed scale model yet is the most scale one I own. It was originally built in the 1970's with some sort of really thick, heavy fabric covering. Well, that stuff was falling off the wings, so I covered them in that Coverite 21st Century fabric stuff. Halfway into the 5th flight, both wings folded to a 45 degree angle, but I was still able to land it without any further damage. I feel this covering didn't give much strength to the overall structure. I didn't use flying wires either, which certainly didn't help. Do you guys have any recommendations as to what type of covering would be best? I want to maintain a semi scale fabric look, so Monokote really isn't an option since the fuselage is still covered in the original fabric and looks good. I have only dealt with iron on coverings, so I'm not familier with any of the other types available. Any suggestions? Thanks.

I feel this covering didn't give much strength to the overall structure.

The covering should not contribute significantly to the strength of the structure. In other words, if you're relying on the covering to prevent the wings from folding, you have other serious problems with the construction.

That being said, I like Solartex or Colortex. It's fabric-textured, fuel proof, lightweight, and goes on really easily.

Dr.1

Solartex from Balsa USA, or Worldtex from Horizon Hobbies are good options. Be sure to clear coat with a polyurethane.

> Jim

What he said.

I can't say that I have ever had a wing fold up like your describing here ,but I agree theres something wrong with the structure for that to happen .while the covering does help with wing strength ,(example) a sheeted wing should fly weather its covered or not and not fail.
I have used coverite with great results and its a heck of allot stronger than the plastic film coverings,but you pay for that strength with extra weight .Sig makes a fabric covering thats both lite and easy to put on ,but you need to prime and paint it afterwards .It holds up purdy good I just finished stripping a plane that was done in it 25 yrs ago .

I did the polyurethane once (water based) and never again, had to recover......all sticky and would not clean off. That said I used to use super coverite exclusively until a friend talked me into trying solartex, I'll never go back to coverite. I now find covering a pleasure.


Bud

I've never had to cover Solar/World/Colortex with anything. It's fuel proof right out of the wrapping. It does take a little more cleaning due to the weave of the surface.

Dr.1

I use only Sig Koverall. I brush 2 or 3 coats onto the framework, apply the material, stick it down with thinner, and the brush on 2 or 3 coats thinned 50/50. I normally use automotive paint (single stage) and come out with a nice finish. Your covering does not hold the structure together, nor does it lend strength to the structure (significantly). I don't know what caused the wing failure, but I would suspect old weak glue joints failed. Amberoid was the glue of choice in the 70's and I hope that you have gone over all the glue joints in the wing and re-glued everything. This is the way a Liberty Sport is supposed to look (before covering)

Bill, AMA 4720

i would bet when you uncover the wings you will find the glue joints failed. glue does get old and fail

How do i get the oil out of the wood to get new monocote to stick. Trying to recover a 5 year old bird that was give to me. i.ve been told to try EasyOff oven cleaner, then kitty litter. Any help here?

Maybe a coat of Coverite's BalsaRite would do the trick.

I have several planes clear coated with MinWax Polycrylic. My exparience has been that MinWax Polycrylic (water base) holds up fine WITH THE FOLLOWING CAVEATS:

1. Let the polycrylic dry for A MINIMUM of 7 days before exposing to fuel.

2. Do not let the residue from engine remain on the finish MORE THAN 4 hours, otherwise the finish (polycrylic) begins to soften. After a thorough cleaning though (pain when it is soft), it will reharden in about 2 - 3 days.

The primary reason you are clear coating Solartex (Worldtex, etc) is to make cleaning easier due to the more open weave.

I covered my telemaster with super coverite and I did clean it immediately after a day of flying and it was tacky nevertheless. It had actually dried for several weeks after applying the polycrylic before i got a chance to fly it. Maybe it had something to do with coverite? Fuel was 15% which is what I've always used. I now use solartex for everything.....best covering material I've found.

First fill a container large enough to embed the part of the plane that is oil soaked with kitty litter, ane put the part of the model (probably the nose) into the container of litter and allow to sit for 1 day. Then, using a brush wet with acetone wash the area, and then sprinkle the affected area with baking soda and allow to sit overnight, repeat as necessary. You will end up pulling the majority of the oil out of the area. Then you can give it 3 coats of SIG Stixit, and you should be good to go.

Bill, AMA 4720

How heavy is a finished Solartex structure compared to regular filmcovering like Monocote and to fiberglass (what is the weight penalty for having a pretty plane)? Myself are about to start my biggest project so far by building a 25% Extra. For this I am brainstorming different options including what material to use for covering.

Some guys are chosing their materials according to the size of the aircraft, other to what type it is, while some are just stuck with either or.

The 25% has a wingspan of 72" .