Can oil based paints, such as dope or Rust-Oleum, be used on top of water based polyurethane ?

The only way to really know what will happen is to try some test pieces first. Dopes (laquers) and oil based paints don't always mix well. For worry free (for the most part) painting stick with one type of finish. Having said that you can mix SOME finishes but not all. And not all in the same order. As an example you can apply Butyrate dope over Nitrate dope but not the other way around. Even though they are both Dope.

In my woodworking projects I use oil based stains and apply waterbased Poly over them. For obvious reasons I have never tried stain over poly. I use satin poly and I find that once it has cured it is very hard to get anything to stick to it. You might try to paint a sanded 1 by 4 (pine would work) with poly, sand the surface with fine paper or steel wool. Then you can paint stripes of various paints and see which ones work. One paint you might try is Nelsons. It is a water based resin that works very well over his primer. Try www.nelsonhobby.com/paint.html

Yeah guys, I know that "testing" is the ultimate way to find out. I was just hoping that someone out there had experienced doing this.

Thanks for your input.

> Jim

I glassed my Focke Wulf using MinWax PollyCryllic. After a thorough sanding, I applied automotive primer over it, with good results. Haven't tried dope or Rustoleum, however.

First, polycrylic in not water based polyureathane! However, being an acrylic, almost any paint will go over it.

Paul

I use a 50 50 mix of water based poly and latex paint for my first color coat, when the satin poly sealcoat(s) is just dry but not cured. I would think that this would be a good base for oilbase paint as it has some teeth, which as stated, cured poly has not. You have to experiment; it's the best way to learn. I use Behr acrylic latex with a poly topcoat for all my painting.

You should have no problem applying paint over the polycrylic. I frequently use dope, Krylon and Ultracote clear over the polycrylic with no problems at all.

Here is a compatibility chart you may find helpful.

I can always count on good reliable info from my good bud Campy. I'm feeling better about the project already.

Cheers > Jim

I must have some really "rare" stuff.

Not rare - just not polyurethane!!!!!

And not fuel proof!

Paul

RCPAUL, let me clarify this some for you and others. This is based on my own personal experience with the product used over latex and Krylon paints as a clear coat.

MinWax Polycrylic does not yellow with age (as the oil bas polyurethanes do ) and is fuel RESISTANT to 15% nitro (may be more ) WITH THE FOLLOWING CAVEATS:

1. Let the polycrylic dry A MINIMUM OF 7 DAYS before exposing to fuel residue.

2. Do not let the residue remain on the plane/finish for over 4 hours. After 4 hours the finish begins to soften.

As for fuel PROOF, the only thing I am aware of that is fuel PROOF are the epoxy type, or 2 part, paints. The rest are fuel resistant.