Need a color equivalent for an upcoming project.

Need to replicate RLM #75 Luftwaffe Gray Violet and RLM #76 Luftwaffe Light blue.

It will be sprayed upon fibreglass, so don't want a any lacquers.

Would prefer something that will mix with automotive acrylic enamel reducers, synthetic enamel, or two-part epoxy synthetics resembling Pactra.

Also want low or no gloss finish.


Wm.

Why not Latex, Cheap, non hazardous, and very easy to apply?

Vince

I was moreover hoping to locate some pre-blended paint. I have one of those Monogram Luftwaffe Colours books, and to take the patch to a paint store to batch up a gallon of each tint is overkill. One friend suggested some of the pre-mixed paint used for plastic models, but that is about $2 per 1/4 once and would cost me about $100 when finished.


Wm.

I just go to my local Home Depot store with the monogram book. They match me up a quart of latex (for gas models) or Rustoluem (for glow models). The cost is less than $10 each and the match is perfect.

Try Nelson Hobby Paint, you don't need special reducers. You reduce it with water. If you need RLM colors Nelson can do it for you. $10 for a half pint which will go a long way. $20 for a whole pint.

--Paul

I had visitied the local Home Depot. They wanted a five gallon minumum, or $15 color matching fee for less than that. There is nothing on the shelf for less than $10.

Interested in the Nelson paint. Do they require a color chip, or can they go by the numbers? Am quite familiar with batching and applying automotive paints, thus my interest, but it is expensive. We have numerous regulations as to application and purchase of paints. There is a Nelsonlite paint dealer locally , who has PCL compliant coatings. This any relation?


Wm.

You might try Cheveron or Perfect paint. Tower stocks it. It comes pretty close to the RLM colors (used it on a 1/5 scale Fw190D9) with good results. It sprays really well and comes in flat finishes. They also have a satin clear coat if you prefer.

Coosbay---

They just need the RLM number, they have the color chips already. I know for a fact as I work there when I'm not in school. I've mixed a lot of the RLM colors. (in fact i've figured out many of the FS equivilents used for the actual formulas) If you need any more Nelson Paint info either Call Nelson toll free at 877-263-5766 or you can email me at [email protected] and I can hopefully answer any questions you have.

--Paul

Try Lowes, Home Depot <cough> is worthless. Go to Lowes, they will do free paint matching, with no minimum. I bought a quart of green paint that they scanned off one of my plastic models, hehehe, for $8 and change. Its the way to go.

I went to my local Lowe's. They mixed 3 qt. of the RLM 74,75,76 the price was about $8.00 a qt. They matched them to my color chips I had.................Vic Gasparini

Don't rule out the tamiya acrylic model paint. It covers much better than you would think. It took me five little jars of green and three of gray to cover a .40 Raiden, plus some jars of orange and yellow for trim. At $2 a pop it is NOT far off from spray cans of something else, and the colors are perfect.

I have to agree with easytiger. I painted a pica fw190 entirely with testors model master acryl paints. The RLM colors were very accurate and easy to apply. I used 5 bottles of RLM 76 light blue ($12), 3 bottles of RLM 82 ($7) and 3 bottles of RLM 83 ($7) for a total of about 26 bucks. Not too expensive for a total outlay of paint.
pics of the fw190 on my webpage.
Evan Q.
http://www.homestead.com/evoshangar/home.html

The Tamiya paint is even nicer than the Testors. By the way, you can use mineral spirits as thinner. That's all the expensive thinner they sell is, anyway.
It's truly great paint. The coverage is amazing. You can BRUSH it on with zero brush strokes showing. I think brushing may actually be more economical with the paint. More on the model, less in the air. Dunno. But...the colors are dead nuts scale. The flatness is perfect. The paint really looks just RIGHT.
I have not played much with their gloss paints, I do not think they are the right choice for that.
The testors SPRAY cans are incredibly expensive to use, though. I would stay away.
Go price out a couple of spray bombs of lusterkote or perfect or whatever. You can easily spend $50 on regular model airplane paint on a single project. If you stock up on dope at every swap meet like I do, and take the time to mix your own colors, dope can be economical, but if you are paying retail, it's expensive nowadays...

I also used the testors model masters for markings on both of my spitfires in addition to my fw190d9. I also would rather use the tamiya paints but there is no-one local who stocks them. there is however a local source for the testors so thats what I use. The model masters work great for markings and can be applied over just about any kind of paint. Frisket paper makes excellent masks for this kind of work.
Evan Q.

Evan:

What is frisket paper and where mighit be found?

Thanks,
Kirk

I used Nelsons and they have toe formulas for the actual FS and RLM most of the winners of the scale masters use his paints. they7 are easy to use and inexpensive.

Following is a list of RLM and matching FS numbers. GO to your Benjamin Moore dealer and they'll match (Latex) and mix for you at $10/12 for 29 Fl ounces. I have some unused RLM colors available from my project.
JG
RLM 02 Primer Grey: FS#16165
RLM 04 Yellow: FS#23538

RLM 23 Red: FS#31302 or FS#31136

RLM 24 Dark Blue: FS#35053

RLM 25 Bright Green: FS#34115

RLM 27 Yellow: FS#33637 or FS#33655

RLM 65 Bright Blue: FS#35352

RLM 66 Black Grey: FS#36081

RLM 70 Black Green: FS#34052

RLM 71 Dark Green: FS#34079

RLM 74 Gray Green: FS#36081

RLM 75 Grey Violet: FS#26132

RLM 76 Light Blue: FS#36473

RLM 78 Bright Blue: FS#35414

RLM 79 Sand Yellow: FS#30215

RLM 80 Olive Green: FS#34096

RLM 81 Brown Violet: FS#34083

RLM 82 Bright Green: FS#34138

RLM 83 Dark Green: FS#34083

Frisket is thin vinyl sheets that have low tack on one side that can be cut for masks with an exacto. It comes from art suppliers for airbrushing. Clear sticky-backed shelf liner with satin finish works just as well. You can draw markings on and cut out for masks.

Why not just use liquid mask film? you just spray it on then cut out the areas you want to paint. if you have to mask for another color just spray on some more then when done painting peel it all off.

Does anyone know if the Mr Color lacquer-based model paints can also be used in place of Tamiya acrylic paints?

In addition,

In the case of airbrushing, i've heard that thinning latex paint with water can actually cause the paint to seperate. Does anyone use another thinner? (alcohol, mineral spirits, etc?)

Also, does anyone recommend a certain brand of latex for airbrushing?

Actually, thinning latex with mineral spirits will cause seperation. Some guys will use Floquill or windshield washer fluid, but I have always used water. Water will not cause seperation as latex is a water based paint. I use American Traditions and Duron mostly as that is what my local Lowes carries. I usually wind up about 70 percent paint to 30 percent water and dont have any flow problems running at 25 to 30 psi on the airbrush.

Warren

Here is the authoritive website for aircraft paint that the scale plastic modelers swear by, http://www.hotel.wineasy.se/ipms/stu...lorcharts2.htm
It will tell you how to mix popular brands for any color noted. Many scale modelers mix their own. I use Nelson's, as listed above, for my FW TA 152. The colors were excellent and the paint is supreme. Just tell Jerry the FS# and paint name and he can mix it.
Luck

Go to my web-site:

http://www.warbirdcolors.com

WarbirdColors is a line of one-part, water-based, fuel-proof, acrylic polyurethane primer and paint, formulated specifically for the RC hobbyist. It sticks to anything, dries HARD, can be sanded in about an hour, and THE COLORS ARE ACCURATE

Link is broken.

Here's the original : http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorch...olorcharts.asp